Install Gear Remote & Scott Drake Trunk Release

[69Stanger408 82]

Electrical question: I want to use my keyless system to open my trunk. I have the "Install Gear Central Locking System (CLS)" uses key FOB remotes to lock/unlock doors which works fine. Additionally, on the key FOB is a trunk release button. On the CLS controller, there is an amber wire which states "Trunk Output -300mA. My trunk release is the Scott Drake unit, that has one power wire on the actual release mechanism (utilizes ground through the attachment points). If I send 12V directly to the red wire on the Drake unit, the release opens. Here is the issue I am running into, I installed a relay in the following configuration:

• Blade 86 - 12V constant
• Blade 30 - 12V constant (both wires (86 & 30) are connected together at the end to a 15 Amp fuse, then to battery)
• Blade 87 - Scott Drake Red Wire
• Blade 85 - CLS amber wire.

My thought is the amber is a negative trigger that would open the relay and energize the circuit to pop the trunk. Well, nothing happens, thoughts?  I attached the CLS wiring diagram.CLS Wiring Diagram.pdf

[mustangstofear 608]

32 minutes ago, 69Stanger408 said:

Electrical question: I want to use my keyless system to open my trunk. I have the "Install Gear Central Locking System (CLS)" uses key FOB remotes to lock/unlock doors which works fine. Additionally, on the key FOB is a trunk release button. On the CLS controller, there is an amber wire which states "Trunk Output -300mA. My trunk release is the Scott Drake unit, that has one power wire on the actual release mechanism (utilizes ground through the attachment points). If I send 12V directly to the red wire on the Drake unit, the release opens. Here is the issue I am running into, I installed a relay in the following configuration:

• Blade 86 - 12V constant
• Blade 30 - 12V constant (both wires (86 & 30) are connected together at the end to a 15 Amp fuse, then to battery)
• Blade 87 - Scott Drake Red Wire
• Blade 85 - CLS amber wire.

My thought is the amber is a negative trigger that would open the relay and energize the circuit to pop the trunk. Well, nothing happens, thoughts?  I attached the CLS wiring diagram.CLS Wiring Diagram.pdf

Call  Ken on  Wednesday  :)

[aslanefe 333]

Did you check to see if you get - on amber wire when you press and hold the bottom for 2 1/2 seconds and the light flashes 3 times??

[newstang 388]

2 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

Call  Ken on  Wednesday  :)

your wiring is correct, you need to see if that yellow wire sends out a neg. pulse

 

[69Stanger408 82]

2 hours ago, aslanefe said:

Did you check to see if you get - on amber wire when you press and hold the bottom for 2 1/2 seconds and the light flashes 3 times??

Lights do not flash, they do however flash with the lock and unlock.

[danno 128]

Disconnect the relay and put a voltmeter + on the red wire to the battery. Put the minus from the voltmeter on the amber wire.  Push the trunk release button, and the voltmeter should jump up in voltage for a very short period of time.  If you do not have a voltmeter, use a 12 volt light bulb between the +12 v and the violet.  Press the trunk button and you should see the bulb flash on. 

[aslanefe 333]

4 hours ago, 69Stanger408 said:

Lights do not flash, they do however flash with the lock and unlock.

If you are pressing and holding the trunk botton for 2/ 12 seconds and the lights are not flashing 3 times, there must be something wrong with the remote or the receiver then. Did you check to see if you get - on amber wire?

[69Stanger408 82]

From the research on the internet and Amazon, the lights do not flash and there is no need to hold for 2.5 seconds, you get an immediate readout

[LoneWolf2U 136]

11 hours ago, 69Stanger408 said:

Electrical question: I want to use my keyless system to open my trunk. I have the "Install Gear Central Locking System (CLS)" uses key FOB remotes to lock/unlock doors which works fine. Additionally, on the key FOB is a trunk release button. On the CLS controller, there is an amber wire which states "Trunk Output -300mA. My trunk release is the Scott Drake unit, that has one power wire on the actual release mechanism (utilizes ground through the attachment points). If I send 12V directly to the red wire on the Drake unit, the release opens. Here is the issue I am running into, I installed a relay in the following configuration:

• Blade 86 - 12V constant
• Blade 30 - 12V constant (both wires (86 & 30) are connected together at the end to a 15 Amp fuse, then to battery)
• Blade 87 - Scott Drake Red Wire
• Blade 85 - CLS amber wire.

My thought is the amber is a negative trigger that would open the relay and energize the circuit to pop the trunk. Well, nothing happens, thoughts?  I attached the CLS wiring diagram.CLS Wiring Diagram.pdf

going off memory here but the wiring to the relay is wrong.

86 is power from switch source to turn on relay.

30 is main fused power.

87 is power lead to trunk release.

85 is ground for relay.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

^^^ Mach1 Rider has the correct connections for the relay. 85 and 86 are the coil terminals while 30 and 87 are the switching contacts. 30 is common and 87 is NO. You are wired incorrectly. Some relays have a diode to quench the reverse EMF when the relay turns off. If so you have to get the polarity correct on coil terminals 85 and 86, otherwise they are interchangeable.

In case you are wondering what a reverse EMF is; when power to the relay coil is removed, the magnetic field collapses, and it produces a voltage spike of reverse polarity. It can damage electronics connected to this circuit, so a diode is connected across the relay terminals. It is attached so that it doesn't conduct in normal operation. However, when the reverse pulse hits it does conduct in that direction and shorts it out. Any general purpose diode can be used and its good practice to quench those voltage spikes- it could save your electronics.

[69Stanger408 82]

Confused on the relay, the explanation above does not receive anything from the CLS controller (the amber wire), or is that what you are calling the switch source?

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Without looking into the system, Yes the Amber wire would be the signal to the relay to turn on. 86

My question is why are you using the relay ? does the trunk release use that much power that it is needed?

 

Test the Amber lead with meter to see if it sends a + signal or - when button on remote is used.

From the wiring dia it is not clear.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

2 minutes ago, Mach1Rider said:

Without looking into the system, Yes the Amber wire would be the signal to the relay to turn on. 86

My question is why are you using the relay ? does the trunk release use that much power that it is needed?

What he is asking is- does the trunk solenoid use more than 300mA (.3A)? The diagram shows (-) 300mA, so it is probably a negative output. Connect a volt meter from amber to the meter, then the meter to chassis to see if you get voltage (when triggered). If not connect from the amber wire to the volt meter to battery + (and trigger it). If you get 12v then, it is a negative output. The amber would need to go to the relay 86 (still need to know if the relay has a diode) and then 85 would then need to go to battery +.

[newstang 388]

6 hours ago, Mach1Rider said:

Without looking into the system, Yes the Amber wire would be the signal to the relay to turn on. 86

My question is why are you using the relay ? does the trunk release use that much power that it is needed?

 

Test the Amber lead with meter to see if it sends a + signal or - when button on remote is used.

From the wiring dia it is not clear.

it does require a relay, it is a solenoid and pulls allot more than 300 ma

[69Stanger408 82]

If I measure between red power and orange, I get 12v when triggered. If I measure between ground and orange I get .65 when triggered. What's the connection on the relay? Relay pic attached.

 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

15 hours ago, 69Stanger408 said:

If I measure between red power and orange, I get 12v when triggered. If I measure between ground and orange I get .65 when triggered. What's the connection on the relay? Relay pic attached.

 

As the picture shows, the coil is 85 and 86. In this case they are interchangeable, as there is no diode. The switching contacts are: 30 is common, 87 is normally open, and 87? (can't make it out) is normally closed, but you won't use that. Connect amber to 85, and battery+ to 86. Battery + also goes to 30 common, and the trunk solenoid to 87 (normally open). The trunk solenoid may have a wire to ground to the chassis, or it may already be connected to its mounting bracket.

[aslanefe 333]

4 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

As the picture shows, the coil is 85 and 86. In this case they are interchangeable, as there is no diode. The switching contacts are: 30 is common, 87 is normally open, and 87? (can't make it out) is normally closed, but you won't use that. Connect amber to 85, and battery+ to 86. Battery + also goes to 30 common, and the trunk solenoid to 87 (normally open). The trunk solenoid may have a wire to ground to the chassis, or it may already be connected to its mounting bracket.

If per OP 12V constant means + side of the battery, according to the first post he wired the relay same way you described.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

1 hour ago, aslanefe said:

If per OP 12V constant means + side of the battery, according to the first post he wired the relay same way you described.

Yes it is. I think some of us were assuming (makes an ass out of me) that the amber output was positive- until I looked at the wire diagram, then I suspected otherwise. He just verified the output is negative, so that's the way it should be connected. Now we need to figure out why that doesn't work- does it trigger the relay? Will the solenoid pull-in if connected directly to B+?

[aslanefe 333]

18 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said:

Yes it is. I think some of us were assuming (makes an ass out of me) that the amber output was positive- until I looked at the wire diagram, then I suspected otherwise. He just verified the output is negative, so that's the way it should be connected. Now we need to figure out why that doesn't work- does it trigger the relay? Will the solenoid pull-in if connected directly to B+?

That is why I asked him in my first 2 posts if he gets - on amber wire when he presses the botton :)

[aslanefe 333]

Now he can disconnect the amber wire from the relay and put - (ground) to post 85 and see if the relay is working and sending +12 to post 87.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Or... put the voltmeter across the relay coil- 85 to 86. You should get 12v when triggered. If that works, then connect the voltmeter to 87 and chassis and trigger it. That should give you 12V. If that works, check at the solenoid. Connect the voltmeter to the wire going to the solenoid, and its ground. If that's 12v, then it must be the solenoid, or something mechanical.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

22 minutes ago, aslanefe said:

That is why I asked him in my first 2 posts if he gets - on amber wire when he presses the botton :)

Yep, I get that, but Stanger just answered. I give him credit- he has a voltmeter and is using it. Electrons are baffling to most people. The picture of the relay cinched the deal (we know it doesn't have an internal diode now), and we can work our way through the problem.

[69Stanger408 82]

When I connect battery to 86 and 30, orange (trigger) to 85, the relay opens when triggered, but I only get .30v on 87. This is driving me nuts.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

38 minutes ago, 69Stanger408 said:

When I connect battery to 86 and 30, orange (trigger) to 85, the relay opens when triggered, but I only get .30v on 87. This is driving me nuts.

Yes, as Bill Clinton would say '"I feel your pain". FYI, the relay is closing (pulling-in) when triggered, not opening, unless of course you have it connected to the normally closed terminal. That's the one I can't quite read as 87x. Switch it just for fun from 87 to 87x. Its a long shot but maybe its marked wrong. If that doesn't do it then you have a bad relay. That's all that's left.

[aslanefe 333]

2 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

Yes, as Bill Clinton would say '"I feel your pain". FYI, the relay is closing (pulling-in) when triggered, not opening, unless of course you have it connected to the normally closed terminal. That's the one I can't quite read as 87x. Switch it just for fun from 87 to 87x. Its a long shot but maybe its marked wrong. If that doesn't do it then you have a bad relay. That's all that's left.

If there is 0 volts on 87 when not triggered and 0.3 volts when triggered, what would be the failure mechanism of the relay? Looks like the coil side is working as it is pulling, would corrosion on the contact side cause voltage to drop from 12 to 0.3v?