Door Glass Alignment

[69Stanger408 82]

Been playing around with the door glass for awhile and it's time to ping the group. Any tricks for adjusting the angle where the top and front leading edge sits further into the weather strip? I've got new glass and new power unit (Ne-Relic). Replaced the glides (small plastic pieces) within the two vertical guides. I've moved the lower vertical bars in and out which really did not affect it much. The front to back is nice as well as the top. Just sits out to far. Passenger side is satisfactory, if I can get drivers side to match passenger I'd be happy.

[aslanefe 333]

How is the glass to felt/weatherstrip contact?  Do you have glue in glass or bolt on?

[69Stanger408 82]

4 hours ago, aslanefe said:

How is the glass to felt/weatherstrip contact?  Do you have glue in glass or bolt on?

I have not installed the felts at this point as I do not want to damage them should they need removal for glass removal, however the window is spaced evenly in the gap. The glass is bolt in. Regardless where the bottom of the vertical guide bars are (in or out) does not effect the fully closed spacing against the weather strip.

 

[RPM 1,190]

52 minutes ago, 69Stanger408 said:

Regardless where the bottom of the vertical guide bars are (in or out) does not affect the fully closed spacing against the weather strip.

But it most certainly should move the top edge of the glass in or out. Are the C channels in the guides sloppy or tight?

[69Stanger408 82]

Plastic guides have been replaced with new ones, after replacement the "sloppyness" was unnoticeable (same amount of slop as the original). Vertical guide bars are original.

 

[aslanefe 333]

I do not understand how moving the bottom of vertical guides do not move the top of the glass in or out especially if the window is in up position. It should move the glass but may be not enough movement for it to sit on the weatherstrip right. If the movement you get is not enough, you can put shims under the plastic guides to tilt the glass. I use hard plastic package material to make thin strips of shims (with a slot for the plastic guides to go through) and paper masking tape to make up the thickness I need. If you put shims under the lower outboard plastics and upper inboard ones, you will move the top of the glass inboard a little bit (this will also reduce the sloppiness). You can also put shims under the top bolts that attach the C-channel to glass (shim goes between the glass and the C-channel bracket) to move the top of the glass inboard. You can use fender/alignment shims or make your own from sheet metal.

I assume you will be installing new reproduction outside felts made by Repops. These felts are not as thick as the originals and your glass may not touch them and seal when up (I think I have pictures comparing the the Repops to original in one of my posts here if you want to see the difference). Repops felts made 4-5 years ago were correct thickness, but not anymore. I recommend installing the felts before you adjust the glass. If the glass is not sealing to the felt when up, you have to bend the tab on the door where the vertical channels are attached, or cut the top mounting piece of the channel and weld it after you moved the vertical part outboard a little bit to get the glass closer to the felt and seal.

Adjusting aftermarket glass while using aftermarket felt is a long frustrating job (having felt with correct thickness makes it a little easier). If your car is a coupe, it is more work to get the quarter glass to seal with felt and weatherstrip.

I went through this on a coupe last year (original glass, Repops felt) and had to do all the tricks I posted above to get the glasses aligned and seal. I wish you a lot of patience and good luck.

 

 

 

 

[aslanefe 333]

Just a note, I had glue in glass on the car I worked on last year. The shim I put in between glass and C-channel sits on the glued metal part and C-channel. With bolt in glass, I am not sure if putting shim between glass and C-channel is a good idea; the glass may break due to uneven pressure.

[69Stanger408 82]

Thanks for the info. I failed to explain correctly, I adjusted the lower bar in the most outboard position, no more adjustment  so yes it does move top, however, not enought. I shimmed the upper vertical bolt 1/4", it is much better, glass is just about center in the door gap when up or down. Glass is still not where I'd like it, but not as noticable, another 1/8" would be dead on but I will look at the guide shims first as a taking in the slop may help it. These window adjustments with all new products is a real pain.i would like to give Ken at Mustangs to Fear a shout out. He took the time to discuss the matter and recommended the vertical guide bar shimming.

 

[aslanefe 333]

2 hours ago, 69Stanger408 said:

Thanks for the info. I failed to explain correctly, I adjusted the lower bar in the most outboard position, no more adjustment  so yes it does move top, however, not enought. I shimmed the upper vertical bolt 1/4", it is much better, glass is just about center in the door gap when up or down. Glass is still not where I'd like it, but not as noticable, another 1/8" would be dead on but I will look at the guide shims first as a taking in the slop may help it. These window adjustments with all new products is a real pain.i would like to give Ken at Mustangs to Fear a shout out. He took the time to discuss the matter and recommended the vertical guide bar shimming.

 

Roll the window up and stick the end of outside felt through the gap at few locations after you think you adjusted the glass to your liking. This will tell you if your glass will seal to the felt or not without permanently installing the felt. Installed felt is PITA to remove without destroying the mounting clips on them.

[69Stanger408 82]

Regarding the felt, found that out the hard way, hence to say I have another set on order.

[mustangstofear 608]

You can also elongate the bolts holes on the bottom of the doors outward to give you more adjustment.

[69Stanger408 82]

12 hours ago, aslanefe said:

assume you will be installing new reproduction outside felts made by Repops. These felts are not as thick as the originals and your glass may not touch them and seal when up (I think I have pictures comparing the the Repops to original in one of my posts here if you want to see the difference).

I went with Steele felts, supposedly they are original tooling.

[aslanefe 333]

7 hours ago, 69Stanger408 said:

Regarding the felt, found that out the hard way, hence to say I have another set on order.

Well, sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the new set may have the same issue in regards to thickness. I went through it a year or so ago and made a lot of phone calls. Steele told me they sell Repops 69-70 outside felt, I don't think there was a Ford tooling for extruding the rubber, may be the tool to locate the clips on the felt. There are two companies that reproduce them, Repops and can't remember the other one on top of my head. Talked to both manufacturers, sent pictures, got dimensions from them and looks like they use the extrusion from the same rubber company so thickness of the felt from both brands are the same. Even talked to the rubber manufacturer to see if they currently have a profile that is as thick or thicker than original, answer was no. I made both manufacturers aware of the issue and hope that they got the rubber manufacturer to go back to the die they used a few years ago as the parts manufactured till about 2017 (as far as I remember) had the correct thickness. I have a set of sportsroof felt made using extrusion made before 2017 and it has the same thickness as original felt.

[69Stanger408 82]

I did your suggestion and placed the edge in, not sealing, though it's close. Will continue to play with it. MTF suggest elongating the underside hole but it's already next to the weather strip track, to move further out would put me in the track.

[aslanefe 333]

If the felt is not sealing, you have to move the tops of the vertical tracks outside. You can do this by bending the door frame where the tops of the tracks attach and the tab of the track or cutting the attaching tabs from the vertical tracks and rewelding them after you move the track outboard in relation to the tab.

[aslanefe 333]

One more tip, make sure you roll the window all the way down slowly and check the fit also. The glass may bind and break when down if you only check and adjust the fit for up position.

[CJPayne 2]

I have been trying to get the passenger door and window to fit better on my 'vert. I read through a lot of threads here and reviewed the shop manual thoroughly. I also watched the WCCC video. 

I tackled the door first. I purchased an obstruction wrench. I checked the hinges and there was no slop. So I worked with the door so it shuts very nicely and the gaps are good. The door is in the same plane as the fender and quarter panel. I also rolled up the window and it is centered. The body lines look good.

Now for the window. I checked and the glue looks fine and the window is not loose. I pulled out the plastic guides and flipped them rather than replacing as recommended. I will say they are brittle and I lost a few pieces on two of them, but they pressed back in fine and held. The regulator seems to be fine. It is not bent anywhere and the window rolls up and down like it should.I moved the equalizer to level the window. I then loosened the bolts on the bottom of the door and with the window rolled down I shut the door from the inside and rolled up the window into the slot in the weather stripping. I then opened the door and tightened the bottom bolts.

However, when doing this last step I noticed that the weather stripping on the top is inward of the door weather stripping at least 1/4". I thought maybe the top is out of alignment, but I checked the driver side the weather strips lines up pretty well. I took the first screw out of the pillar weather stripping thinking maybe somebody had moved it, but there is only one drilled hole.

FYI, s far as I know I have original door, door glass, fender, quarter panel, weather stripping and top. I am stumped on how I am ever going to get the pillar and top weather stripping to align? Maybe I will have to move one of the weather strips?

One other piece of information. The door glass does get tight of the bottom of the pillar first. I thought maybe I needed to move the door out, and I did a little, but it is aligned pretty well with the fender in and out. The door still shuts well and I think this is naturally the first place the window will hit the weather strip.

So what have I overlooked? I think the issue at this point is the weather strips being out of alignment with each other. Thanks.

[CJPayne 2]

Here is a picture of the weather strips.

 

[barnett468 418]

12 hours ago, CJPayne said:

Here is a picture of the weather strips.

 

One of the weatherstrips is of on backwards or on the wrong side.

[CJPayne 2]

I had not throughT of that. Thanks. I hope it is not the top. I have read in several posts that some of the repo weather strips are problematic. Maybe I should try swapping my pillar strips?