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1969_Mach1

Alternator Wiring Repair Connector

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For a 1969 Mustang Mach 1 without a factory tachometer, does anybody make a repair connector and pigtail for the alternator?  I'm talking about the three pin connector in the main harness that plugs into that short harness that goes to the alternator.  It is a 351W car, but I don't think that matters.

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1 hour ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

For a 1969 Mustang Mach 1 without a factory tachometer, does anybody make a repair connector and pigtail for the alternator?  I'm talking about the three pin connector in the main harness that plugs into that short harness that goes to the alternator.  It is a 351W car, but I don't think that matters.

Not that I am aware of.  This part is in demand, and I believe I am all out, the last time I checked back in May.  My gear is still in storage for another 6-8 weeks...

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2 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

I guess if they were available somewhere you would know about it.  For now I'll do without the three wire plug, and solder and shrink tube the connections.

Why not crimp on bullet connectors so you can disconnect the two harnesses?

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I'll give that a try.  My preference with crimp connectors is to also solder them and seal the soldered end with shrink tubing so they are sealed.  In the past, I haven't been able to solder those crimp type bullet connectors.

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I have one, but the colors are not quite correct.  If you don't care about the exact colors of the wires,  it would work.   Which end to you need, the one that goes to the alternator or the one that goes to the harness? 

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I need the end that goes in the harness.  So it has to be cut off of the main harness.  I have the alternator end.  It comes with that short harness that attaches to the alternator.  I'm not concerned about wire colors.  As long as it has the correct size wires on it.  If it's an original connector the wire sizes will be correct.  The three wire bullet connectors in parts stores for trailers all have wires that are too small.

If you are willing to cut it off of your main harness and want to sell it, let me know.

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6 hours ago, danno said:

I have one, but the colors are not quite correct.  If you don't care about the exact colors of the wires,  it would work.   Which end to you need, the one that goes to the alternator or the one that goes to the harness? 

 

4 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

I need the end that goes in the harness.  So it has to be cut off of the main harness.  I have the alternator end.  It comes with that short harness that attaches to the alternator.  I'm not concerned about wire colors.  As long as it has the correct size wires on it.  If it's an original connector the wire sizes will be correct.  The three wire bullet connectors in parts stores for trailers all have wires that are too small.

If you are willing to cut it off of your main harness and want to sell it, let me know.

Yeah, be careful.  One of the wires is 14 gauge; the others are 18 gauge.  I would not recommend splicing a 14 gauge wire into a 18 gauge wire.

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this is what I have.  from what i think, the large wire is in the wrong location. One of the tricks that can be done  is to pull the bullet connector out of the rubber support.  The wire comes with it, they will pull out sometimes easily, sometimes not. Then rearrange the wires ( or even solder new wires to the bullet connector) and glue it back in using black silicon glue.   I am guessing Randy has used this trick.  It could be done to put the large wire in the middle. 

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Nope, I never pull pins out of molded connectors.  Sure, why don't you can use that pair of connectors so long as you use both as pigtails spliced into your other harnesses such that the wire colors/functions are maintained.  Electrons really don't care much about which pin it is going through, only that it seeks its proper home (function). 

I try and stay true to Ford designs, so if that particular model/year wants the big pin in the center, I cannibalize whatever I can to meet that design.  That way, the customer can always rely upon the factory wiring diagrams, wire colors, and functions for guidance.

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I am sorry, I did not mean you did it, but that you know it can be done. Maybe you did not know that it can be done?   If you did not know about this, then it is a new trick. It can work well to achieve the results, but it might not be as perfect as the factory connection. 

I tell you what, I will try it on this one in the picture.  I will re-arrange the wires to be correct. I also want to see how well it works. 

 

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OK, I did it on this one.   We needed to get the heavy gauge wire in the center for a 69 connector.  I actually think it works quite well.  I after I pull them out, I re-insert them with new black silicon.  They are in very securely, could be even better than before ( because of the new silicon).  

1969_Mach, if you want it, you can have it.  It will probably work fine for you. 

Danno

 

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