Nuzzlet 0 Report post Posted January 10, 2020 18 minutes ago, Midlife said: Wow....that sending unit sure adds complexity to a standard Mustang. Now one has to route a 12V (fused) line and a ground, along with the standard sending unit line back to the fuel tank. That means pulling the rear seat, sides and door sill to route those wires back along with the standard tail-light. OK, the ground can be fashioned entirely at the rear. Now then, can the standard circuit card be used? I think so. Not entirely what I would do myself, just to get a better fuel gauge. I presume the gauge itself is now different, which means it probably is not compatible with the circuit card in a physical sense? Or is the sending unit 6/76 ohms close enough to fit the Ford gauge? Ok so it has adjusters on it to change how much resistance it creates for different levels of gas. I love in a cold environment half of the year so fuel stabilizer is in there anyway. As for the wiring, that is correct however presumably you would be able to run the 12 volts when you run the wires for speakers/amp which this car has. The sender I believe is working correctly it just doesn't display quite right because of the pulsing 5 volts. We will find out for sure tomorrow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nuzzlet 0 Report post Posted January 11, 2020 Alright so I installed the CJ voltage converter. Upon simply adjusting the empty and full screws on the sender from min to max I am able to move the girl gauge needle from empty to full. The needle seems to no longer jump around and is consistent when engine running and off in accessory mode. I'm going to remove the probe from the tank and do a full calibration. Sadly I can't take it for a ride nor put a full tank of gas in it as it's going to be a few months before winter is over and I can take it out the garage. Thank you everyone for the help, hopefully I can get this working for summer! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
