Break In Oil

[1969_Mach1 333]

I need Break In oil for a 390 FE motor.  It has a new flat tappet hydraulic lifter cam.  I like Lucus oils and they now have a break in oil I'd like to use.  But Driven break In oil has been recommended.  It's been so long that last time I had to break in a new flat tappet cam, there was no need for Break In oils.  What brands of Break In oil have other members used?

[rockhouse66 22]

I have used the BR Driven oil on 4 flat tappet engines now and had no issues with cam break-in.  Maybe just lucky but I am superstitious now so won't use anything else.  I should note that these break-ins were done on a dyno where the load and temperature can be closely controlled so that may be part of the reason for my success.  I also made sure I had checked and rechecked everything to ensure that the engine started immediately.

[Mystang 11]

     It sounds like you already know, but for all who don't know this.  

     Be sure to use engine assembly lube, not just oil when installing new cam and lifters.  'Never reuse old lifters with a new camshaft' and priming the hydraulic lifters before installation is a simple and highly advisable step.  Lastly, break-in is sooo important for a non roller cam. Most cam manufacturers give instructions for the process. Follow them carefully!

      Wow, I wish I had access to a dyno for any of my rebuild and tuning work.  Having exposure to dyno results. Have you or anyone else tested real life before and after Edelbrock top end kit on older 302 engine? 

[1969_Mach1 333]

Thanks for the replies and information.  Mystang, I have both the assembly lube that came with the cam, that red sticky thick oil, and Driven engine assembly lube which lokks like a black grease.  I was planning on using the assembly lube that came with the cam.  The motor will sit a few months before it can be started, is the Driven engine assembly lube better for this or stay with the stuff that came with the cam?

[Mystang 11]

  I'm sorry I missed your post and question.  Any assembly lube should stay put for that length of time.

  But before you start the engine, you should prime it by turning the oil pump to circulate oil through the entire oil system. This can be achieved by removing the distributor and turning the oil pump with a relatively inexpensive tool like  Melling Engine Priming Tools PT11   you can buy at Summit for $20.  with it you can run the pump using a hand held drill, works great. This puts oil all the way up to the rockers, after filling all of the lubrication passages.  

   Also, you can check your oil pressure before start-up, either with an existing gauge or by replacing the oil pressure pick-up unit (on the block) with a testing gauge.

[Vicfreg 772]

Also, check your cam manufacturer's instructions for break in.  I did this recently, and there were instructions to vary the RPM up and down over a certain time period.  You don't want to run it wide open, nor do you want to run it at like 1500 RPM for the whole time.

The other important thing is that you run the engine in as close as possible to final configuration you can. I had mine on an engine test stand, but made sure I warmed the engine up till the thermostat opened, and then ran the engine for at least a half hour after that.

Good luck.  Send some video's of this.  One of the real thrills of this hobby is starting and running the engine after a rebuild.