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On 10/28/2019 at 6:23 PM, Kris said:

That’s actually very reasonable. There is a shop not to far from me that only does mustangs and they charge $150 an hr. I’ve heard a lot of bad things about them from multiple people. If you guys were closer to me I would have had you do work on my car. Nice to know there are honest companies out there doing this kind of work and not charging two arms and two legs for their rate. Especially for the quality of work you are doing. A+

I've looked through your build thread and it looks like you're getting along just fine on your own, Kris. I'm curious, what is that shop you speak of. We live in the same part of the state. 

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Mustang one in sapulpa. I have purchased a few small parts from then quite a while back. I’ve met quite a few people in the area over the last few yrs that had work done there and have been told by everyone that they are a bunch of crooks. Charging for work that wasn’t done or even completed and parts that were never installed or received. One guy told me when he dropped his car off he left them will all new high end coil over front and rear suspensions and they installed used stuff that wasn’t even the same brand he had left them. When he went to pick his 2 cars up because they weren’t doing anything with them they could even find half of his original parts because they just pile everything from all their customers up and his stuff had apparently been used on other people’s cars. He had to take them to court and had prepaid a large deposit to have his cars built. After I learned of their very poor business practices I avoid them like the plague. I’m in industrial maintenance by trade so I’ve done everything on my car by myself since trustworthy shops are hard to find. 

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Rich, love watching your builds come together. It's an energizer for guys like me. Wish sometimes there was a little more descriptive but know you have long days. If may ask, what specific product did you use for that self leveling epoxy seam sealer? And, did you use outside of just the drip rail area?

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What is the price on this sealer ? 

I used to use E6000. ,it is self leveling also but i cant get it here anymore . 

We rolled the race truck one season and i had to relpace the back of the cab ,at the bottom there was no way to weld because of the cage work so i flooded it with E6000,very next race it rolled again ,i like to never got the back of the cab off ,had to burn it off 

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That is strange ,the last conversion i did ,the front of the roof ,the lip ,was 1/4 inch short . The roof fit but the front lip didnt reach all the way to the front of the front roof brace ,usually dont have this problem . Just got all the mrtal for a nother conversion ,i will have to check it 

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This is another  build that we are doing for Panera Bread. This  one has better  pictures of the  fixture we use to align the engine panels and  our radiator support.  We're also doing a one off and  installing the  customer's  Griggs front suspension  in our subframe with our MTF Watt's link.  It's  a good thing we have highly qualified suspension engineers to make this happen. 

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Started to  install our  Shelby nose. In order to get the top of the left fender to  fit we had to cut it off and reweld it.  We also found out it's  better to  let the customer  weld the bump stops on our radiator  support, because  there can be a huge difference between a fiberglass hood and a steel hood.  We  recommend  screwing the  bump stop down half then close the  hood  until it touches, then you can weld them in place.

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