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Ridge Runner

1969 -70 hood ,with 1971 -73 top

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I have to trim the top panel down to a half inch wider on both sides and the rear ,the front is 3/4 longerr that a 69 hood top ,so i have the metal for the fold over . I really dont have anything to cut the top panel with out warping the edges so i have to figure somthing out  there . . I set the top between the 2 forms and it pinches tight with out denting ,so soon i will fold the edges .20191102_114339.thumb.jpg.559c777d93d5091b493f88034a156970.jpg

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Edges are rolled and the front lip is spot welded . I made a slight V in the peak ,it was to flat looking . I still have to figure out how to finish off the rear ,it has a 3/4 inch rise like a cowl induction hood but much lower . I did manage to get two very slight dings in the top edge but i am really happy so far 

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3 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

I still have to figure out how to finish off the rear ,it has a 3/4 inch rise like a cowl induction hood but much lower . I did manage to get two very slight dings in the top edge but i am really happy so far

One possible way might be to cut a piece of textured plastic around 3/32" thick that conforms to the raised area and is the same width as that area then use 6 or 7 "L" brackets welded to the hood with a nut fixed to the backside or u nut to secure the plastic to the brackets with black oval head machine screws etc.

 

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16 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

Edges are rolled and the front lip is spot welded . I made a slight V in the peak ,it was to flat looking . I still have to figure out how to finish off the rear ,it has a 3/4 inch rise like a cowl induction hood but much lower . I did manage to get two very slight dings in the top edge but i am really happy so far 

Good job Ridge,

Looks like you did not fold the rear edge, right? It is a little late but, you can modify the fold molds to fold the back; make a step on the mold where the cowl induction looking area is so when you fold the high area it is an inch or so longer and angled to meet the under brace. This way top of the induction area will be longer and from side it will be slanted going down to meet the under brace. You need to put some relief cuts to the edges of the induction area so you can fold it without bunching in those areas and weld the cut edges later. Just a thought.

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All that is left is to fit it on a car ,i have a 70 coupe with some 69 fenders and headlight buckets ,i just need to make sure it fits to the cowl and the fenders and headlight buckets.

I am going to bond in the scoops to make the molds ,after i will crack them loose ,the fiberglass hood will have them made in 

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I was going to bolt everything to this 70 coupe ,but the hinge nuts are torn out and all the fender mount hole are screwed except 2 on each side . I had to do a touch of bowing to get it to follow the fenders but i would say both sides follow the fender tops very well . 

The hood to cowl is going to need a slight extending but it is fairly flush with the cowl so a little more work before i can finish it up 

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On 11/2/2019 at 11:53 AM, Ridge Runner said:

I set the top between the 2 forms and it pinches tight with out denting ,so soon i will fold the edges .20191102_114339.thumb.jpg.559c777d93d5091b493f88034a156970.jpg

Real nice work there Jim. Many a body mod made from using wooden buck forms. Most excellent.

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Does that look like $1000. Setting there ? ISO resin and gel coat ,already have the matt . I remember ,not to long ago ,$1200 would get me a 55 gallon drum of resin ,a bucket of tooling gel coat and a couple of rolls of 60 inch  2 oz.matt , and that is why fiberglass parts are so expensive now .

I picked up a couple of coupe to fast back conversions so it will be at least 2 weeks before i can get back to the hood 

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8 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

I remember ,not to long ago ,$1200 would get me a 55 gallon drum of resin ,a bucket of tooling gel coat and a couple of rolls of 60 inch  2 oz.matt...

Yes, but you live in california, and If that was ppg paint in those buckets it would be a few thousand dollars, lol.

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I decided to use bondo to bond in the scoops ,when the hood is pulled from the mold i will crack them loose again .

Passenger side of the hood sanded to bare metal ,i only made a couple of dings in the top ,in the center of the peak and a pucker on each side of the very rear of the rise on both sides . Its pretty in bare metal !

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All sanded and looking like stainless steel . Found two very light dings on driverside ,so light high build would take care of them . I wish i would have striped the two scoops instead  of just sanding them ,they are powder coated . It is turning out fan fricken tabulous !

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