Break In Oil

[ralt962 11]

After a number of issues that are in a different post, I finally installed a new cam and lifters.  I used comp cams break in oil for the 30 minute run up.

Good oil pressure and temp the entire time.  Seems like this one took ok.

Recommendations on how long you keep the break in oil?  Should I drive it a bit?  Coming to the last days of driving up north so I dont have long before I have to put it away for the winter.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Not certain about how long to use break in oil.  But after that, and before your winter storage, I'd run it and then store it with some Hot Rod and Classic Car oil from Lucus or Joe Gibs Racing.  They have high zinc contents for flat tappet cams and are designed to cling to surfaces specifically for cars that are stored for long periods.

[ralt962 11]

Thanks for the recommendation.    I dont want to go though another cam issue.  So far its doing great.  Nice to have 8 cylinders again.

[barnett468 418]

I usually run it for a least 100 miles, but in your case, you should change it right away because of all the filings from the destroyed can lode and lifter that were inside the engine. I don't run synthetic in a new engine for at least 300 miles. I would also get a magnetic drain plug.  In addition to the maknetic drain plug, you can also stick a fairly large magnet to the bottom of the ban near the drain plug.

[barnett468 418]

what is your open valve spring pressure?

 

 

[ralt962 11]

When the issue of the low oil pressure started and wrecked the cam, I've changed the oil and filter about 5 times.  Last time I ran a magnet through the oil just to check and found nothing.

I did change to a magnetic drain plug but I like the idea of the magnet under neath.  

Heads were new when I started this.  They are Roush Aluminum heads with a roller rocker.  Not sure what the spring rates were on this.  All the other lobs on the cam looked good.  It was just the #1 intake.  

I'll run it a bit longer (I've put about 10 miles on since changing the cam and running the break in) before winter and swap to fresh oil and filter.

Appreciate the suggestions.

[barnett468 418]

1 hour ago, ralt962 said:

Heads were new when I started this.  They are Roush Aluminum heads with a roller rocker.  Not sure what the spring rates were on this. 

You are probably safest running oil with 1400 - 1700 parts zddp or zddb because this will provide more scuff resistance than oil with less, if all other aspects of the oil remain the same . Oil with 1800 parts of zddp or more can cause damage over time from the phosphorous attacking the metal. Racing engines can use 2800 parts of zddp because they get rebuilt frequently. After around 1800 parts of zddp, more zddp will not increase scuff resistance, the additional zddp is just there to insure the amount of zddp does not fall too low in a race car because zddp gets depleted as the engine is running, meaning, the zddp level does not remain the same the entire time the oil is in the engine, it slowly goes down.

 

 

 

[ralt962 11]

This sounds like you have been deep in this part of the industry.  Did you work at an oil company?  I spent a summer intern job at the Amoco Oil additives research lab in Naperville Illinois back in the 70's.  But we were just working on the SAE levels.  

Great information.  Now I have to check the details of what I put in.  

[barnett468 418]

4 hours ago, ralt962 said:

This sounds like you have been deep in this part of the industry.  Did you work at an oil company?  I spent a summer intern job at the Amoco Oil additives research lab in Naperville Illinois back in the 70's.  But we were just working on the SAE levels.  

Great information.  Now I have to check the details of what I put in.  

No, I didn't work at an oil company, I just have an oil fetish...