Lower clutch rod snapped

[capemustang 15]

My lower clutch rod snapped today.  Does anyone have a brand preference for replacing it?  My car is a 302 .  Thank you in advance for your suggestions.

[1969_Mach1 333]

If you have a stock replacement clutch assembly, then a stock replacement clutch rod should be fine.  From what I understand the stock clutch linkage cannot tolerate clutch assemblies with much more clamping force than stock.  If you want linkage that is a little better than stock, take a look at Opentracker Racing.  They sell linkage kits with spherical rod ends.  They're a bit pricey, but probable work better.

[capemustang 15]

Thank you very much. I appreciate your help.

[capemustang 15]

It appears that the lower clutch rod that snapped had been modified by a PO.  They welded a nut on the end where it would meet the clutch fork (image attached).  According to one mechanic, it was probably because the fork was getting worn and this was an easier fix. Anyway, this mechanic, who was highly recommended by a fellow mustang owner, suggested that the fork, should be replaced, and that if I was doing that, then I might as well replace the clutch.  One of his concerns was that the fork was worn which required the earlier nut welding fix.  His recommendation was also based on my experience with how the car performed prior to the rod snapping.  He asked if it was ever hard to shift.  I told him that it shifted fine but that it required some muscle to shift, I just thought it was the way it should be- a firm clutch.  All of my previous mustangs (a few 1966s,a 1970, and another 1969) were all automatic transmissions so I don’t have any idea how a manual transmission should feel.   So, for those who might have stock  clutches, does your pedal require some muscle to shift?  Do you think that it’s worth having the clutch redone while the transmission is open? I would need to order all the parts ahead of time and commit to the repair before I bring it to the shop.   I realize that each car is different with how it’s set up based on the different parts, modifications, etc.  All I know about mine is that it is a 302 with manual 3 speed and that it should be stock. It runs really well and haven’t had any clutch issues until this week.  I  wish I had more information.  Thank you in advance for your help and advice.

[barnett468 418]

Does your clutch take a considerable amount of force to depress. The stock clutch on a 6 cylinder can be depressed to the floor by hand if one is moderately strong. Unless your left leg is unusually weak compared to ost people, the clutch should not feel hard to depress to you, and if it does, than it is probably considerably stiffer than stock, which would be highly unusual for a 6 cylinder. It might help to determine what brand of pressure plate it currently has.

You should also check all the pivot points including the upper clutch pedal pivot to see if they move freely or not because worn or dry pivots can make a clutch feel stiffer than it otherwise would.

As far as replacing it just because the bell housing is off, it would be a good idea to at least inspect it to see if it needs to be replaced, but obviously if it does, it would be far better to already have one. If you buy one you can probably return it anyway if you don't use it.

As far as the pedal being hard to depress, if it is due to a stiffer than stock pressure plate and you want a lighter feel, you can get a pressure plate that is close to stock pressure, which is around 1550 lbs.

[capemustang 15]

27 minutes ago, barnett468 said:

Does your clutch take a considerable amount of force to depress. The stock clutch on a 6 cylinder can be depressed to the floor by hand if one is moderately strong. Unless your left leg is unusually weak compared to ost people, the clutch should not feel hard to depress to you, and if it does, than it is probably considerably stiffer than stock, which would be highly unusual for a 6 cylinder. It might help to determine what brand of pressure plate it currently has.

You should also check all the pivot points including the upper clutch pedal pivot to see if they move freely or not because worn or dry pivots can make a clutch feel stiffer than it otherwise would.

As far as replacing it just because the bell housing is off, it would be a good idea to at least inspect it to see if it needs to be replaced, but obviously if it does, it would be far better to already have one. If you buy one you can probably return it anyway if you don't use it.

As far as the pedal being hard to depress, if it is due to a stiffer than stock pressure plate and you want a lighter feel, you can get a pressure plate that is close to stock pressure, which is around 1550 lbs.

It takes some force but I could do it by hand. It’s a 8 cylinder 302.  Thank you for  all the great suggestions.  I was fine with how the clutch performed beforehand, so would probably not change it. I will talk to the mechanic . Good point about having the parts ready and perhaps returning them if not needed.  This is a dumb question regarding buying parts-I want to buy what would be stock parts, but how do I know what is stock?  I don’t want to accidentally buy performance. Would it be quite evident in the descriptions for the clutch and other component?again, this may be a stupid question. Thank you for your help. 

 

[barnett468 418]

6 minutes ago, capemustang said:

It takes some force but I could do it by hand. It’s a 8 cylinder 302.  Thank you for  all the great suggestions.  I was fine with how the clutch performed beforehand, so would probably not change it. I will talk to the mechanic . Good point about having the parts ready and perhaps returning them if not needed.  This is a dumb question regarding buying parts-I want to buy what would be stock parts, but how do I know what is stock?  I don’t want to accidentally buy performance. Would it be quite evident in the descriptions for the clutch and other component?again, this may be a stupid question. Thank you for your help. 

 

the best stock type clutch disc is factory ford or a "street" disc from centerforce . the mcleod street discs are junk.

[capemustang 15]

I replaced the broken lower clutch rod today. It fit fine and shifted once or twice before the pedal sank to the floor again. I looked underneath to see if the rod was still in position. It was ok, but there was a lot of play where it attaches. Then, I saw that there was another part located nearby which should move that was very loose. I think that this loose part may have caused the previous lower clutch rod to snap and the new one to move out of position. I don’t know what this part is. I am attaching a photo . Can someone help me identify it?

[capemustang 15]

6 hours ago, barnett468 said:

the best stock type clutch disc is factory ford or a "street" disc from centerforce . the mcleod street discs are junk.

Thank you. I am glad you mentioned the McLeod. I wondering about them. 

[barnett468 418]

looks like the plastic bushing on your z bar pivot may be bad but hard to tell.

[capemustang 15]

Thank you,

7 hours ago, barnett468 said:

looks like the plastic bushing on your z bar pivot may be bad but hard to tell.

Thank you. I think you are correct. I was reading on a couple  forums that When installing an adjustable lower clutch rod that you are not supposed to have the nuts straddle the pivot block. Something about it may cause it to snap.  Mine original was installed that way. Is that correct? Also, there is a “potato chip” shaped washer between the pivot block and bar that is very old and allows more play-what would be its name and where might I find a replacement?

[Midlife 814]

12 hours ago, capemustang said:

I replaced the broken lower clutch rod today. It fit fine and shifted once or twice before the pedal sank to the floor again. I looked underneath to see if the rod was still in position. It was ok, but there was a lot of play where it attaches. Then, I saw that there was another part located nearby which should move that was very loose. I think that this loose part may have caused the previous lower clutch rod to snap and the new one to move out of position. I don’t know what this part is. I am attaching a photo . Can someone help me identify it?

Are you missing a bolt for the hole on the lower right of the part that sits on (what I think is) the frame?

[capemustang 15]

9 minutes ago, Midlife said:

Are you missing a bolt for the hole on the lower right of the part that sits on (what I think is) the frame?

Yes, I think so.  

[barnett468 418]

The clutch rod needs to be as parallell as possible to the fork or it can break. You can bend the lower arm on the z bar if you need if your rod is not parallell.

I don't know what you mean by "nuts straddling" but the nuts in the photo are in the correct location.

The potatoe chip washers are unnecessary. They simply keep the rods from rattling but if you have them then reuse them.

There must be a flat washer behind the cotter pins otherwise the cotter pin can get cut in half and the rod can fall out.

 

I would do the following.

1. remove the z bar and see if you need a new plastic bushings and inspect the inside of the z bar for wear.

2. you must have 2 bolts in the z bar mounting bracket that mounts to the frame.

3. check to see if the clutch pedal bushing is loose or if the pedal is hard to push with the z bar off.

4. Your z bar is not 90 degrees to the clutch rod so i would fix that if possible but it is not imperative.

 

[capemustang 15]

2 hours ago, barnett468 said:

The clutch rod needs to be as parallell as possible to the fork or it can break. You can bend the lower arm on the z bar if you need if your rod is not parallell.

I don't know what you mean by "nuts straddling" but the nuts in the photo are in the correct location.

The potatoe chip washers are unnecessary. They simply keep the rods from rattling but if you have them then reuse them.

There must be a flat washer behind the cotter pins otherwise the cotter pin can get cut in half and the rod can fall out.

 

I would do the following.

1. remove the z bar and see if you need a new plastic bushings and inspect the inside of the z bar for wear.

2. you must have 2 bolts in the z bar mounting bracket that mounts to the frame.

3. check to see if the clutch pedal bushing is loose or if the pedal is hard to push with the z bar off.

4. Your z bar is not 90 degrees to the clutch rod so i would fix that if possible but it is not imperative.

 

Thank you very much,  I will do as you suggest.  The cotter pin washer is missing-I will get one put in. As it was, the original cotter pin snapped (rusted) when I was pulling it out.  Thank you very much for your help.   

[barnett468 418]

3 hours ago, capemustang said:

Thank you very much,  I will do as you suggest.  The cotter pin washer is missing-I will get one put in. As it was, the original cotter pin snapped (rusted) when I was pulling it out.  Thank you very much for your help.   

to get the cotter pin in  when also using the potatoe chip washer you can install the flat washer then squeeze on the outsde of the flat washer and the outside of the rod etc then install the cotter pin.

[capemustang 15]

13 hours ago, barnett468 said:

to get the cotter pin in  when also using the potatoe chip washer you can install the flat washer then squeeze on the outsde of the flat washer and the outside of the rod etc then install the cotter pin.

Thank you, that’s a good tip.  I took photos to the mechanic. He said that the clutch fork appears to be damaged/worn. Possibly from age/usage and he thinks that is why the nut was welded in the tip of the lower clutch rod.  We are going to replace the fork, but he also wanted to replace the pivot ball.  I can’t seem to find any for the 1969 .  I can find many for other years and they are called a different names-clutch fork pivot ball or clutch fork stud .  In a zbar/equalizer bar kit they have a pivot included.  Is this what he might be referring to? I am attaching photos of that pivot as well as a photo of my fork. 

[barnett468 418]

Cj pony parts clutch equalizer bushing. There is one on each end. 4.95 each.

[capemustang 15]

21 minutes ago, barnett468 said:

Cj pony parts clutch equalizer bushing. There is one on each end. 4.95 each.

Thank you very much.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I think the OP is referring to the clutch fork pivot ball and not the Z-bar bushings (Z-bar bushings are also needed).  For 1969, there is not a pivot ball for the clutch fork.  Instead it uses a Fulcrum.

 

 

 From the factory this Fulcrum is riveted to the bell housing.  The rivets can be drilled out and flat head allen bolts and lock nuts used to install the new Fulcrum.  If yours has some type of pivot ball, somewhere in the cars life the wrong bell housing has been installed.

NPD sells new Fulcrums. https://www.npdlink.com/product/fulcrum-clutch-release-lever-on-bellhousing-good-repro/149913?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dclutch%2Bfork%2Blever%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 

It sounds like the clutch linkage needs to be rebuilt from the pedal all the way to the clutch to make correct and reliable.

[capemustang 15]

On 10/4/2019 at 5:16 PM, 1969_Mach1 said:

I think the OP is referring to the clutch fork pivot ball and not the Z-bar bushings (Z-bar bushings are also needed).  For 1969, there is not a pivot ball for the clutch fork.  Instead it uses a Fulcrum.

 

 

 From the factory this Fulcrum is riveted to the bell housing.  The rivets can be drilled out and flat head allen bolts and lock nuts used to install the new Fulcrum.  If yours has some type of pivot ball, somewhere in the cars life the wrong bell housing has been installed.

NPD sells new Fulcrums. https://www.npdlink.com/product/fulcrum-clutch-release-lever-on-bellhousing-good-repro/149913?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dclutch%2Bfork%2Blever%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 

It sounds like the clutch linkage needs to be rebuilt from the pedal all the way to the clutch to make correct and reliable.

Thank you.  Yes, I was trying to refer to the clutch pivot fork ball. I am very new to this, as I am sure you can tell!   As you and others have suggested,  I will be rebuilding the clutch linkage to the pedal, including the zbar (equalizer bar) bushings, and related parts.  I am thinking that I will also replace the clutch while it's apart.  I really appreciate every' help with advice and suggestions.  

[Rsanter 152]

How about a picture of your clutch fork.

i have seen several clutch forks that have a hole worn into the center because if the point on the lower linkage.

i have seen many times where the nut trick was used to prevent replacing the clutch fork

[capemustang 15]

2 hours ago, Rsanter said:

How about a picture of your clutch fork.

i have seen several clutch forks that have a hole worn into the center because if the point on the lower linkage.

i have seen many times where the nut trick was used to prevent replacing the clutch fork

I believe you are correct that the hole was worn in the center of the clutch fork.  I am attaching a few photos of the clutch fork, as requested. They are not the best since I didn't have the car jacked up high enough. Also, I haven't removed the clutch fork yet and the dust cover is in the way.  It almost appears as if they welded another nut on the clutch fork due to the octagonal shape.  The welded nut on the lower clutch rod appears to fit into the fork perfectly (until it snapped!).   I believe that because the clutch fork was fitted with the nut and also due to the equalizer bar (zbar) bushings being worn out contributed to the rod snapping.  

[capemustang 15]

I have been shopping for parts to fix up my clutch linkage.  I have found a few NOS clutch forks, a clutch equalizer bar mount (engine side), and a zbar (equalizer bar).  Should I put in NOS when I can find them or does it really matter? The rest of the parts will be reproductions.   Also, what do you all think of the Centerforce dual friction clutch?  Thank you in advance for your help.  The car is a 69 convertible with a 302 manual 3 transmission. No AC or power steering.