Steering Box Removal Steps?

[RPM 1,190]

Being born in 1956, having several concussions, and being a blonde thru my teenage years have contributed to my bad memory of remembering if the headers have to be moved to take out the steering box. I figure the brand of header will come into play with the amount of room available.

I want to swap out the 16:1 box for a rebuilt 19:1 box. But I'll wait if the headers need moved as I'm not to keen on tackling that job just yet. 

Thanks guys. 

[Caseyrhe 650]

To my knowledge, no they don't need to be removed. Having enough room to swing the knocker might be an issue. rag joint should be easy enough. bolts for box come out from the inner fender.

Times a wasting pilgrim

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

Bit of a job with headers ,and a clutch z bar .a 69 may come out because it is not a solid shaft like early67 and 65 -66 ,these are not fun . I have a few of the SMBK 69 boxes if you need one ,check your tag on the top of the box first ,you may already have one 

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

I have several rams and valves if you need them ,this is just a few

[RPM 1,190]

 Thanks guys, I'll give it a go here shortly. I currently have a 16:1 Flaming River manual box which has worked fine, but I've read too many horror stories you keep it. I traded Chocostang a Midland booster for an SMB D 19:1 box.

 Thanks for the offer Jim, but I have a spare cleaned up SMB K box that has good clean parts in it, and a rebuild kit. When I'm bored I'll rebuild it. I was impressed when I tore down the box and saw how it works. Ingenious engineering on the worm and sector. I'll not bad mouth original Mustang steering again. Any slop is due to worn out parts, not design. 

I've got nuttin but time Casey :)

[Vicfreg 773]

Having done this like 3 times in the past year, I offer some advice:

Special tools....   Big Ass Socket for the Big Ass bolt on the Pitman Arm.  Pitman arm Puller.

Before jacking car up/putting on lift, center the steering wheel, disconnect the rag joint. 

Once off the ground:

Remove the drivers side front tire.   This will give you easy access to the steering box bolts (3) that come through frame rail right where the fuel line is run.  

Disconnect the Pittman Arm from the center link, and remove the big ass bolt on the Pitman Arm.  Use the right "puller" to get the Pitman arm off.

Pull the long horizontal motor mount bolts,  and trans mount center bracket bolts and you can get some "wiggle" room to get the steering box out.   Make sure you disconnect the rag joint first.  This is another major pain in the a**.   Unless recently replaced, toss the rag joint.    

Get the Z Bar and Linkage out of the way

Good luck....

 

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks Vic, was going to reply but then I forgot :)  Your steps are correct, but I didn't need to mess with the motor mount bolts as I have self made Ron Morris mounts. 

 

[Vicfreg 773]

Right, I have those mounts also, but when I put my engine in with the headers on, the steering box was soooo close.....

[RPM 1,190]

Oh I hear ya Vic. On the #7 & 8 tube I've got <7/16" clearance, and I moved all my tubes in closer to the motor. Glad I did now. Probably ought to put some kind of heat shield to protect the steering box.