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bryonbush

Thinner brake booster needed

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There are several posts on this topic.  The single diaphragm booster is not as deep, but is much larger in diameter.   I used a double diaphragm booster and a Ford Explorer/Ford Ranger master cylinder.  One of my toughest parts of my whole project was to find a combination master cylinder, prop valve, etc that fit and had enough clearance from  my headers.  I think I put a separate post on this on the technical forum.  If not, let me look and I will find the pics.    The Wilwood master cylinder is long.   

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I have yet to install mine, but I also have an explorer MC that will fit with a booster. I know this because the MC I have now (cobra) is exactly the same length and I've seen pictures of it fitted with a dual diaphragm booster.

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I too have to recommend using no booster. Unless one has a serious medical issue, anyone with a driver license has enough strength to stop a Mustang with manual brakes. My favorite upgrade was removing the brake booster. Dang car stops better than ever.

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I have to respectfully disagree with you RPM, if I ever drive my car hard for more than a few minutes IMO it's very tiring...leg shaking afterwards tiring. For cruising it's no problem at all. Before we get into a MC bore discussion, mine is sized correctly (1"). Leaves just enough pedal travel left when front brakes begin to lock.

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Id want a booster with a big horsepower application- no doubt.

 

My car has manual brakes now- which is fine for around town- but I wouldn't want my wife to drive the car and have to worry that there could ever be an issue stopping in time. 

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A single diaphragm booster "pancake booster" may also interfere with the Z-Bar due to the larger diameter.  I was told the Boss 429 brake booster would solve this problem. I will let the experts weigh in, but my Explorer mastery cylinder and Wiilwood distribution block mounted on the double diaphragm booster do not hit the shock tower.

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I’ve contemplated not using the booster but if I can, I’d like to keep it. I’m running an automatic transmission so I don’t have to worry about it possibly hitting the Z bar. I thought about using the MS out of a ranger or explorer as I’ve seen others using them but simply for cosmetics I wanted to go with the wilwood. 

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4 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

Why not get yours rebuilt- I believe West Coast Classic Cougar provides a service

There’s nothing that needs rebuilt. The booster is only about two years old and works fine. 

But I’m working with wilwood now. They just released a more compact MS a few weeks ago. After talking with them, that’s what I’ll go with. It’s about a $50 difference between what I have now and that unit but I won’t have to mess with my booster. 

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21 hours ago, bryonbush said:

There’s nothing that needs rebuilt. The booster is only about two years old and works fine. 

But I’m working with wilwood now. They just released a more compact MS a few weeks ago. After talking with them, that’s what I’ll go with. It’s about a $50 difference between what I have now and that unit but I won’t have to mess with my booster. 

Don't forget to make sure you have the proper clearance between the booster rod and master cylinder. This is a critical clearance that few people think of checking.

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Just now, barnett468 said:

Don't forget to make sure you have the proper clearance between the booster rod and master cylinder. This is a critical clearance that few people think of checking.

yes, ive made that mistake before.

15 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Hey Byron, Hadn't seen the compact Wilwood unit yet, if you get one, post a picture.

wilwood 261-14963-bk is the part number. they just released it a few weeks ago according to the rep I talked to. once its installed ill post it up.

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I have already been there.

i have a 69 conv. I upgraded to the willwood MC to find it is longer than the original and will not fit with the stock booster.

the booster I used is from TUFF STUFF. Got it from summit racing.

it is a non concourse version of the one used or the boss429 originally.

it works great, leaves more room in that area and makes the car easier to work on in that area.

 

bolts right on, but....

you will need to modify a spacer or slug that goes in the back of the MC piston for it to work properly with the rod in the booster.

there is a tool to measure this with but I just did carefull measuring with my calipers.

i also used my lathe to shorted the piece that came with the MC (for this purpose) to make it the right length.

 

overall not too hard to do and overall a good upgrade.

 

let me know if you need more info

 

bob

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Things have been moving painfully slow on this. Last night the new master from wilwood showed up. This morning I got to work and the new master fits great. One caviot is the wire plugs for the pressure switch has to be removed before putting the master into place. But once its in place, you have plenty of room to work. I need to do the plumbing still and add the residual valve.

20190919_120322.jpg

20190919_120326.jpg

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