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nickjames138

Dakota Digital Install

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Yeah, thanks.  Took a whole winter to do that, and a couple months of prep with wiring diagrams and a spreadsheet.   I have lots of pictures and lessons learned, so any questions, please ask.   

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On 8/20/2019 at 3:29 PM, nickjames138 said:

69Stanger, did that BIM show you your fuel tank gauge? I don't think it shows fuel, speed (obviously), and dim the dash lights. You had to wire those into the brain box right? 

Working that now, failed to see you had the BIM. I am working with a new Painless Harness, Holley Sniper w/Dual sync distributor, Digital Dakota VHX, and Performance Automatic controller for 4R70W. Plus battery relocate to trunk along with solenoid (similar to Vic's conv), and Vintage Air. Lots of WIRES!!!! This is last part then back to the the body shop panel/door installs, glass, and exhaust.

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On 8/20/2019 at 4:43 PM, Vicfreg said:

Here is my VHX box installed. I am using AAW wiring harness.  The box is mounted to my Vintage Air system.   

 

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Vic, did you check the glove box fitment with the VHX module? Was going to mimick your set up but won't work with glove box, no clearance.

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"Vic, for the Vintage Air, which wire did you use from the harness for the 12V ignition source? Assume one of the AC wires would work from the harness as I have plenty available (new painless harness). "

I used the AAW fuse block feed intended for the original A/C.  It is a "Key on Hot" feed, for AAW, it is wire # 50.  

Main power feed to Vintage Air System comes from my power distribution block at the front of the car.

I ran 2 separate grounds from the Vintage Air system direct to my battery negative (in the trunk).  I called Vintage Air about this, and they said their drawing shows this so you don't have any motor noise affecting their computer.  If you run a local chassis ground, you may have some issues.

My block Vintage Air diagram block diagram is attached.   Terminal numbers are ones I made up by marking up their drawing, and the little boxes on the diagram are AAW connectors I made to facilitate a plug and play install when I go the unit in the car

Hope that helps.

 

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Oh, take some time to understand the Trinary Safety Switch Wiring. That is really tricky, and dependent on what kind of fan controls you have.  I have a PWM fan controller with "AC On" and "Over ride" inputs.   

Here is my TSS wiring diagram:

 

 

IMG_5627.jpg

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"Stanger"....  beautiful work...    I have not run my A/C lines yet, that gave me an idea.  What kind of bulkhead fittings did you use for the freon connections going through the sheetmetal?  My stuff is on the drivers side..   

 

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Vic - I used two of the the vintage air bulk heads ( http://www.vintageair.com/hose-kits-fittings/?subcat1=Bulkhead Plates&subcat2=2-Way ), one for the firewall/wheel well and the other for the wheel well/engine compartment. I purchased the hose crimper from Amazon (  https://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-71550-Black-Manual-Crimper/dp/B000WBQ4U2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mastercool+crimp&qid=1566866011&s=automotive&sr=1-1  ). Left the heat in the firewall as the lines run across the intake anyway.

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2 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Hey Nick.....   not trying to hijack your thread!!   Thought the Vintage Air Pics would help.   Vic

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Dude! Not at all! Love how things start off and then it snowballs into more people finding help! We’re all here for the same thing! Appreciate the concern though. And amazing work! I’m 17 levels below your experience level, so *bow*

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46 minutes ago, nickjames138 said:

Oh and I wanted to say....I didn’t lose my glove box with VintageAir. I have no idea how the shop did it, but I’ll take pics if you want while my dash is off. 

Nickjames, not because of the vintage air evaporator, it was the Digital Dakota gauge module that was attached to the front of the evaporator. Mounting it there allows easy access but prevents the actual glove box liner to be attached.

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13 hours ago, 69Stanger408 said:

Nickjames, not because of the vintage air evaporator, it was the Digital Dakota gauge module that was attached to the front of the evaporator. Mounting it there allows easy access but prevents the actual glove box liner to be attached.

Oh gotcha, I see what you're saying. I was just going to mount mine directly behind the dash (where that crossbar is). Is there a reason I shouldn't? I mean my wiring is such a mess and I'm not about to get into cleaning it up at this point. 

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Don't see an issue as long as you have clearance. I prefer to have it in a location. I can access fairly easy. Behind the horse shoe would be a major PITA should the module fail. Just a thought, but hey, what's not in a PITA when doing this stuff?

 

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On 8/27/2019 at 11:18 AM, nickjames138 said:

Oh gotcha, I see what you're saying. I was just going to mount mine directly behind the dash (where that crossbar is). Is there a reason I shouldn't? I mean my wiring is such a mess and I'm not about to get into cleaning it up at this point. 

The module fits nicely between the fuse box and steering column. I used a couple round spacers to allow it to sit level.

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