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Caseyrhe

Brothers 69 Mach

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Soaked the lifters, pumped them up, used whole tube of cam lube on cam and each lifter, and purple break in oil. Weird it’s just on left side and only on the exhaust. Brother is pretty upset, but as I reminded him, should have gone thru the whole motor before putting it back in after sitting 17 plus years with heads and pan off attached to a stand. 

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Oh wow, that is odd with just the left side exhaust.  My guess is that if the engine was not rotated while stored, this was the "sitting" position of the engine for 17 years, and that over that time, the lifters rusted on to the cam.   

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No sir, I replaced cam and lifters. 
I ended up taking short block and heads to a local, very knowledgible Ford engine guy-

—“looked like a Chevy guy built the heads”, wrong springs, valves cut wrong, and he didn’t replace guides. Springs had to much poundage, thus the cam/lifters. Was just a matter of time before rest of the lobes went flat. 
—oil passage was clogged, looked like spider egg sacks mixed with dirt dobber dirt.                              — —top two rings on two pistons were welded to pistons
 

Like the old Fram commercial said and what I told my brother, “you can pay me now or pay for it later”

Looks like it going to be around 3500 to rehone cylinders, sonic test block, rebuild heads, turn crank, new pistons and bearings to keep the original 390 for the car at .40 over. 

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Update-

heads had to be surfaced, previous m shop had the front several thousands higher than the rear

one rod was significantly lighter than the rest, replacement found with similar weight

Crank turned out fine, Short block going back and heads might be done by late next week. 

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Motor went in last weekend fired it up yesterday. Cam broke in, idled down and no issues. Will get to drive it in the upcoming weeks. Have a good brake pedal until booster is hooked up, then goes to the floor. Started jacking with the proportioning valve, of course, it’s froze up. Got the rebuild kit ordered for it last night. Moved on to gauge pod for the ash tray, damn the luck. Will need to move the center console back about 1 1/2” so it will fit. Trimming it like the other 3 I’ve installed still won’t clear. 
Plan was to deliver it to him upon his return from NC next Sunday, since he’s clueless on the progress, but it will have to wait. 

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18 hours ago, Caseyrhe said:

Moved on to gauge pod for the ash tray, damn the luck. Will need to move the center console back about 1 1/2” so it will fit. Trimming it like the other 3 I’ve installed still won’t clear. 
Plan was to deliver it to him upon his return from NC next Sunday, since he’s clueless on the progress, but it will have to wait. 

When the ashtray gauge pods 1st came out in the '80's, gauges pointed straight back and I had to modify the back edge to clear the bottom of the heater control bezel.   When the angled towards the driver version came out later, I picked one up as it looked more like the real Shelby one and hoped that it would fit better.   

Well, it would not fit at all and would have required more modification (or moving the console back like you did) than the straight one so I left well enough alone and resold the angled one.

Doug

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7 hours ago, MorganLeBlanc said:

Well I have to do mine. It's one of the next things on the list. So I will remember to go back 1.5".  Look great.

You may not have to, I would install pod into console insert with  radio bezel installed. You can position console accordingly

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