Caseyrhe 619 Report post Posted November 21, 2020 Soaked the lifters, pumped them up, used whole tube of cam lube on cam and each lifter, and purple break in oil. Weird it’s just on left side and only on the exhaust. Brother is pretty upset, but as I reminded him, should have gone thru the whole motor before putting it back in after sitting 17 plus years with heads and pan off attached to a stand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 474 Report post Posted December 19, 2020 Oh wow, that is odd with just the left side exhaust. My guess is that if the engine was not rotated while stored, this was the "sitting" position of the engine for 17 years, and that over that time, the lifters rusted on to the cam. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 619 Report post Posted December 20, 2020 No sir, I replaced cam and lifters. I ended up taking short block and heads to a local, very knowledgible Ford engine guy- —“looked like a Chevy guy built the heads”, wrong springs, valves cut wrong, and he didn’t replace guides. Springs had to much poundage, thus the cam/lifters. Was just a matter of time before rest of the lobes went flat. —oil passage was clogged, looked like spider egg sacks mixed with dirt dobber dirt. — —top two rings on two pistons were welded to pistons Like the old Fram commercial said and what I told my brother, “you can pay me now or pay for it later” Looks like it going to be around 3500 to rehone cylinders, sonic test block, rebuild heads, turn crank, new pistons and bearings to keep the original 390 for the car at .40 over. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 474 Report post Posted January 6 Oh, wow....what a story. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 619 Report post Posted January 6 Update- heads had to be surfaced, previous m shop had the front several thousands higher than the rear one rod was significantly lighter than the rest, replacement found with similar weight Crank turned out fine, Short block going back and heads might be done by late next week. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 474 Report post Posted January 8 Now that's good news.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 619 Report post Posted January 24 Motor went in last weekend fired it up yesterday. Cam broke in, idled down and no issues. Will get to drive it in the upcoming weeks. Have a good brake pedal until booster is hooked up, then goes to the floor. Started jacking with the proportioning valve, of course, it’s froze up. Got the rebuild kit ordered for it last night. Moved on to gauge pod for the ash tray, damn the luck. Will need to move the center console back about 1 1/2” so it will fit. Trimming it like the other 3 I’ve installed still won’t clear. Plan was to deliver it to him upon his return from NC next Sunday, since he’s clueless on the progress, but it will have to wait. 1 Grabber70Mach reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 619 Report post Posted January 25 Console moved back, gauge pod in place, and I didn’t even hit the brake line in the tunnel. Today is a good day 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 918 Report post Posted January 25 Ya, those center consoles can be a real pita. Sometimes wish I didn't have one. Just remember, no good deed goes unpunished. 1 Caseyrhe reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangs-R-me 79 Report post Posted January 25 18 hours ago, Caseyrhe said: Moved on to gauge pod for the ash tray, damn the luck. Will need to move the center console back about 1 1/2” so it will fit. Trimming it like the other 3 I’ve installed still won’t clear. Plan was to deliver it to him upon his return from NC next Sunday, since he’s clueless on the progress, but it will have to wait. When the ashtray gauge pods 1st came out in the '80's, gauges pointed straight back and I had to modify the back edge to clear the bottom of the heater control bezel. When the angled towards the driver version came out later, I picked one up as it looked more like the real Shelby one and hoped that it would fit better. Well, it would not fit at all and would have required more modification (or moving the console back like you did) than the straight one so I left well enough alone and resold the angled one. Doug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 619 Report post Posted January 26 Really wasn’t that hard to move back, the console actually is more centered now around the shifter boot. Didn’t even have to remove the seats to get to the screws. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MorganLeBlanc 48 Report post Posted January 26 Well I have to do mine. It's one of the next things on the list. So I will remember to go back 1.5". Look great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 619 Report post Posted January 26 7 hours ago, MorganLeBlanc said: Well I have to do mine. It's one of the next things on the list. So I will remember to go back 1.5". Look great. You may not have to, I would install pod into console insert with radio bezel installed. You can position console accordingly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MorganLeBlanc 48 Report post Posted January 26 Well I have a Hurst Shifter to install but wondering if I mount the base of the console can I install the shifter and boot without having to take the console out again? Looking at your picture that looks like it is possible. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 619 Report post Posted January 26 Yes, the main insert comes out, 2 screws located seatbelt holders. Manual or auto insert attaches to main insert and help on with the 4 nuts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 619 Report post Posted January 29 Thank the Lord for crows feet, a life saver for removing and installing the brake lines on the proportioning valve. The extension magnet helped to retrieving them when they popped off the extension. So glad I hadn’t installed the hood yet. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MorganLeBlanc 48 Report post Posted January 29 My valve is bad. I wish I would have rebuilt it when I had it off. I have decide that I am going with a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 918 Report post Posted January 29 On 1/26/2021 at 11:44 AM, MorganLeBlanc said: Well I have a Hurst Shifter to install but wondering if I mount the base of the console can I install the shifter and boot without having to take the console out again? Looking at your picture that looks like it is possible. On my current toploader swap with Hurst Comp Plus shifter and an automatic console, I had to remove the console mounting screws into the tunnel to slide the console left a bit to be able to reach the shifter boot screws. Ymmv. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 619 Report post Posted February 5 Brakes- new front calipers installed on correct sides with bleeder on top, rear shoes adjusted correctly, new stainless lines, new rubber lines to calipers, new transition hose at axle, new mst cylinder that was bench bled, new brake booster, rebuilt proportioning valve. Tool used to keep valve in place, still installed, while gravity bleeding and then pedal bleeding. Have a good pedal with very little travel, but when the car is running, pedal is mush. Vacuum gauge at idle reading right at 15 Any suggestions on where to start? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unilec 54 Report post Posted February 5 Did you adjust the gap between master and booster? https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/how-to-series/got-a-soft-pedal-dont-forget-the-booster-pin-to-master-cylinder-gap#:~:text=Master Power Brakes recommends that,pin to the master cylinder. 1 Caseyrhe reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 619 Report post Posted February 6 Brakes are working good now after a little adjusting!! Thanks for the link in ilex. First time back on the road in 30 years. Brother is coming out tomorrow am, to what he thinks is another costly issue I need to show him, boy will he be surprised when I tell him to start her up and take her for a drive. 3 years worth of labor done with love and gratitude for my older brother, a little pay back for all he has done for me over the years. 1 1 TexasEd and RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 918 Report post Posted February 7 Outstanding work, story, and love for your brother. With everything going on in your life Casey, we've got the Man of the year winner right here. 3 Caseyrhe, MorganLeBlanc and stangs-R-me reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MorganLeBlanc 48 Report post Posted February 7 Wow it looks great. What a nice guy you are for doing this for your brother! 1 Caseyrhe reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangs-R-me 79 Report post Posted February 7 Wow that really looks great ... never seen a Champagne Gold Mach 1 until the Mustang Recognition Guide came out in 1981 with the nice big 2-page pic near the center of the book. My parents had a '78 Country Squire in this color and it really looked sharp with the contrasting woodgrain just as a Mach 1 does with all the black contrast. Seen it since on plain jane Mustangs and it does look kina blah on its own. Does it have a Tilt Steering Wheel ?? Certainly looks tilted up in the drivers side pic but there is no 2nd switch in the door jam for the tilt-away function. In the pass side pic it looks straight ... optical illusion maybe ?? Can't wait to hear about your brother's reaction !! Doug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 918 Report post Posted February 7 Sooo.... did you make him cry Casey? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
