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 I have a 70 coupe with a 302 and I'm having some issues with the steering.  At low speeds on the street the car is great, but on the highway, the car just handles poorly. It's just seems a battle to keep it traight when it I hit bumps or grooves. I've tried searching for causes and solutions but I little lost as this is all new to me. I have all original suspension with the exception of new springs, shocks and a new bushings. I have upgraded the wheels and tires with American muscle 17x7. What am I missing? How can I improve my handling while on the highways? Would a bump steer kit help?

Thanks!

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1 hour ago, rittenrotton said:

 I have a 70 coupe with a 302 and I'm having some issues with the steering.  At low speeds on the street the car is great, but on the highway, the car just handles poorly. It's just seems a battle to keep it traight when it I hit bumps or grooves. I've tried searching for causes and solutions but I little lost as this is all new to me. I have all original suspension with the exception of new springs, shocks and a new bushings. I have upgraded the wheels and tires with American muscle 17x7. What am I missing? How can I improve my handling while on the highways? Would a bump steer kit help?

Thanks!

If all your suspension parts are within spec, most of the problem is the wheels and tires. An alignment to specs other than stock may reduce the problem but won't make a huge difference.

 

 

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Are you still running the stock type power steering?  If so, is the control valve in good condition?  I kind of agree with Barnett that the wheels and tires are most of the problem.  Or at least exaggerating another problem like not enough positive caster or a problem with the control valve.

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I doubt the power steering has anything to do with bump steer.These car came out of the factory with bump steer, but not as bad as your are dealing with, have you had the alignment, caster, camber and toe in checked? The only way to check bump steer is to measure the position of the wheel center to say fender at rest and remove the drivers side spring and measure from there.

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I doubt this is your problem, but my Grande' behaved in a similar fashion.  It took me a long time, but I eventually stumbled on the fact that the stud for the idler arm had been installed upside down.  So when you hooked everything up, the angle of the passenger side steering link was much different than the angle on the driver side, causing a lot of bump steer when only one tire hit a bump.  How do the angles of your steering links compare when you eyeball them?  Same?

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Thank you all for your help. I am sure it has something to do with the difference in the new wheels and tires vs original, as I haven't really touched the suspension. What's the best way to measure/correct the bump steer? Should I get a Baer Bumpsteer Kit as well as a bump steer gauge? 

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It may or may not be bump steer. Worn steering and suspension pieces, and toe out can cause your symptoms. Lowering these cars from stock ride height often adds to the bump steer these cars already have. After doing the Arning upper control arm drop, adding a bump steer kit, and doing my own alignment, my 69 handles pretty darn well.

1036060324_UCAoneinchArningdrop.thumb.jpg.1c3a2c06785bf3c1fa5b5e30c1a95f1b.jpg684469406_bumpsteerkit.jpg.3f9da8179db17529c504b2cd3278e46f.jpg

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I had similar issues as well with new shocks, springs, larger wheels and tires.  I ended up having rock hard bushings in my spring perches and strut rods.  As well as a bent strut rod.  This kept the wheels from traveling correctly and added a bit of a wiggle.  Not really a bump steer.  I replaced them with roller spring perches and adjustable strut rods from opentracker.  It really improved my handling.  Though I also added roller LCAs as well.  Either way if these parts are worn out they are probably worth looking at to replace with stock or upgrade.

Perches

https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-coil-spring-saddle-1965-1973/p/C4DZ3388RI/

https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-coil-spring-saddle-high-performance-1965-1973/p/CSS4/

https://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-spring-perches/

 

Strut rods or bushings

https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-strut-rod-bushing-kit-1967-1973/p/SRB8/

https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-strut-rod-bushings-heavy-duty-1967-1973/p/SRB10/

https://www.cjponyparts.com/strut-rod-passenger-side-1968-1973/p/SR3/

https://www.cjponyparts.com/strut-rod-driver-side-1968-1973/p/SR4/

https://opentrackerracing.com/product/adjustable-strut-rods-1968-1973/

 

LCA

https://opentrackerracing.com/product/drag-racing-roller-lower-control-arm-1968-1973-mustang/

 

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I had a similar issue with my 1969 .  It ended up being a combination of the idler  arm, worn out bushings for the upper ball joints, and then, needed an alignment. It handles so much better now.

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8 hours ago, rittenrotton said:

Ok, I might look into the shelby drop. I will also change all the bushings  in the ball joints and perches.

 

You can drill with 1/2 inch drill bit and file a little instead of buying the odd size drill bit for the dropped UCA. 

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