best Distributor Brand / Carb whistle Questionnaire

[rwcstang 201]

Hey Team, long time no talk!

Two part question;

1. I'm wanting to replace my Summit Ready to run Distributor with something a little better and that will last longer. My car would completely die while driving at low and high speed, this is the 2nd circuit board I had to replace so I think I need to go with a different brand and better performing. Any Suggestions? it's mainly for street use I heard Mallory or pertronix would work, but I would like to hear your suggestions. 

2.  Ever since I had my Holley 750 cfm, the damn thing would always whistle when revving, at times it would be intermittent, usually when cold you would not hear it but when hot you could hear it. I replaced all vacuum hoses and carb gasket but issue persists. I am not running a carb spacer as it will cause hood clearance issues. not sure if the throttle plate bushing is worn or possibly the main body is the culprit. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 

Current setup 

351w/392w stroker

Weiand Stealth intake: WND-8023WND 

750 carb: HLY-0-76750BK

[shelbyshelby 52]

I’ve had that before on an older street driven Holley. Could try wiggling the the throttle shaft whiles it’s whistling, to see if it changes. Likely the front 2 barrels. 

[1969_Mach1 333]

You need something like a mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint the source whistle.  Holley carbs do not have throttle shaft bushings.  Some of the old OEM Holley versions use thin Teflon bushings that fit into grooves in the throttle shafts.  Usually what happens is the aluminum throttle shaft bores in the base plate wear out.  On Fords, if using the original return spring setup, the primary throttle shaft bore will wear.  Simply because both the throttle cable and return spring are trying to pull the throttle shaft to the rear.

I've heard of whistling through on of the verturies at idle.  I've also heard of leaky power valves causing whistling.  But when a power valve leaks the motor also runs rich at cruise and maybe rough at idle because of a vacuum leak..

[Cantedvalve 128]

I am running a Pertronix distributor. So far it’s been flawless... for the 1 mile I’ve driven since installing it.

[barnett468 418]

A stock distributor with the proper advance curve and a pertronix I is nearly fail proof providing the dist gear is compatible with your cam.

 

 

[1969_Mach1 333]

Is the Pertronix I the system that goe bad if the ignition switch is on without the engine running for only a minute or so?  Or has that been corrected?

If you want OEM reliability there is always the Duraspark II conversion.

[barnett468 418]

10 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

Is the Pertronix I the system that goe bad if the ignition switch is on without the engine running for only a minute or so?  

Nope  we installed literally hundreds of them and had left the keys on for several minutes on several of them and none of them melted. We only had one melt and that was because the key was left on overnight, so as I mentioned, they are nearly fail proof, plus if it fails, you are not out $300.00, so it seems like a no brainer to me.