Who has an aftermarket brake booster?

[lanky 44]

This year a lot of my car will be changed. I am swapping my car to a 4 speed toploader from FMX, and the pedal assembly is going to be removed during the process. 

I still have a long way to go, but I do plan on tracking and autocrossing the car when I'm done. I already have the 13" Cobra brake swap up front, and a 1" master cylinder. System is well bled and the pedal travel is perfect, but I find that anything beyond cruising and the braking becomes tiresome very quickly. I am pretty set on power brakes.

I know everyone prefers the original boosters, but they are already expensive and usually in bad shape. Yes I know there are rebuilders but that just adds to the already high cost.

Has anyone had a good experience with an aftermarket unit? Which one? I would also be interested if someone purchased a master/booster combo that worked well for them.

Generally I avoid anything made/rebuilt by Cardone....

Lastly, should I avoid 9" boosters for fitment reasons? I have a borgeson steering box.

Examples on summit:

Tuff Stuff (#2225NB)--has good reviews and is pretty cheap at $169

Scott Drake (#c7zz2005bdx)--which some people seem to have issues with  $260

SSBC (#28150) apparently only for manual transmissions??--$279

 

 

[Cantedvalve 128]

Other than clearance issues to the clutch linkage, I cant think of what would make a brake booster fit for a manual vs an automatic transmission.

[lanky 44]

Yeah if anything you would think one would be automatic only. Hence my question about if a 9" booster is a problem. Weren't both Midland and Bendix OE units closer to 8"?

Really hoping somebody here has had success with something I can purchase.

[Midlife 814]

Funny...the shortened title on the main forum listing is "Who has an aftermarket bra"...

[lanky 44]

Haha didnt catch that on mobile.

[smh00n 87]

I have an aftermarket booster, but can't tell you who or what. I bought it off ebay. Looks very similar to the Bendix 8" off the car originally. It's gold passivate but

No hassles with it, same fitment as what came off. Performance is good, the guy who passed it for registration reckoned it was one of the better brakers he's driven for a while.

Pressure to use is good, stops well and no hassles.

I guess being able to tell you aftermarket boosters aint that scary is better then nothing :(

[lanky 44]

Still good to hear that. I've decided I'll go with a rebuilt Bendix-style booster (not original). I'm not concerned with factory matching parts, just want a quality unit that fits well. Thanks. 

Now I need to learn the best way to check booster pushrod adjustment when I get a booster. Factory manual uses a specialty tool I'm pretty sure doesn't exist anymore...

[Rsanter 152]

I have a booster from Tuff Stuff on my 69

this is basically the same booster used on the boss429, just not concourse correct.

i got it from summit, but I bought the Crome version.

the thing works great, as good as the original. Feel is good and all that.

it has been on for 4 years no worth no issues.

i want to say I paid $200 give or take for it, the black version will be less.

i have also talked to the Tuff Stuff people on the phone and at SEMA and they have always been very nice.

 

their booster takes less room , is easier to work around in that area of the car, and was a direct bolt on

[smh00n 87]

5 hours ago, lanky said:

Still good to hear that. I've decided I'll go with a rebuilt Bendix-style booster (not original). I'm not concerned with factory matching parts, just want a quality unit that fits well. Thanks. 

Now I need to learn the best way to check booster pushrod adjustment when I get a booster. Factory manual uses a specialty tool I'm pretty sure doesn't exist anymore...

That pushrod length is critical. It cost me months and $$$ trying to figure it out.

In the end I fudged it. I put a straight edge across the face of the booster to see the pushrod depth and then compared that to the depth of the piston iside the master cylinder and calculated the differnce  which is how much the booster pushrood should protrude. Not exactly science but I managed to get it right and I have good brakes.

When I got the car that dimension was wrong and it was like an on/off switch and really violent in brake application.

[newstang 388]

i did this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1970-Ford-Mustang-Black-9-Power-Brake-Booster-Master-Cylinder-w-1-Bore/202259553099?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[lanky 44]

On 5/2/2019 at 2:51 PM, smh00n said:

That pushrod length is critical. It cost me months and $$$ trying to figure it out.

In the end I fudged it. I put a straight edge across the face of the booster to see the pushrod depth and then compared that to the depth of the piston iside the master cylinder and calculated the differnce  which is how much the booster pushrood should protrude. Not exactly science but I managed to get it right and I have good brakes.

When I got the car that dimension was wrong and it was like an on/off switch and really violent in brake application.

In the on/off situation, that was because the pushrod was adjusted too short correct?

Appreciate the info on what you guys have bought. Good to have options.

[smh00n 87]

1 hour ago, lanky said:

In the on/off situation, that was because the pushrod was adjusted too short correct?

Appreciate the info on what you guys have bought. Good to have options.

I’m pretty sure it was the rubber pad missing from the pushrod inside the booster that was the on/off issue. Then the length of the pushrod caused a low pedal once I fixed the pad. 

I was chasing a rear brake locking issue so had a lot of mis-information to deal with. In the end I went with an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear and removed all the original valve block set up. Brakes are good now about as good as my ‘14 daily drive

[unilec 57]

On 5/3/2019 at 5:51 AM, smh00n said:

That pushrod length is critical. It cost me months and $$$ trying to figure it out.

In the end I fudged it. I put a straight edge across the face of the booster to see the pushrod depth and then compared that to the depth of the piston iside the master cylinder and calculated the differnce  which is how much the booster pushrood should protrude. Not exactly science but I managed to get it right and I have good brakes.

When I got the car that dimension was wrong and it was like an on/off switch and really violent in brake application.

I have never used one of these but it may get you in the ballpark of where you need to be, if I did it again I may just make one.

http://baer.com/Push-Rod-Length-guage-6801279.html

[lanky 44]

So that tool is basically the same as the factory manual minus the dial gauge. It's hard for me to imagine getting the length correct within .003" like in the manual. Will have to ask more q's when I cross that bridge.

On another note, aren't both the Midland and Bendix factory boosters dual diaphragm? I noticed tuff stuff only makes single diaphragm for our cars. Dual is safer correct? Or is dual a 'feel' thing?

[1969_Mach1 333]

I would stick with an OEM Bendix 8" booster.  I tried an aftermarket copy sold through Scott Drake before fixing and reinstalling my original Bendix Booster.  Initially it looks good, but as with most aftermarket copied parts, the 'devil-is-in-the-details'.  In my case, where the push rod attached to the brake pedal would not operate the brake light switch.  The lights were on all the time.  The master cylinder studs were too long so I couldn't install the master cylinder with the booster already installed (unlike the original).  The bolt holes attaching it to the firewall didn't line up correctly.  It is basically a universal booster with an adapter mounting bracket and push rod attached to it.

From what I understand, the Bendix and Midland OEM 8" boosters are dual diaphragm.  I think it's for increased power assist and not to be safer.

[smh00n 87]

5 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

I would stick with an OEM Bendix 8" booster.  I tried an aftermarket copy sold through Scott Drake before fixing and reinstalling my original Bendix Booster.  Initially it looks good, but as with most aftermarket copied parts, the 'devil-is-in-the-details'.  In my case, where the push rod attached to the brake pedal would not operate the brake light switch.  The lights were on all the time.  The master cylinder studs were too long so I couldn't install the master cylinder with the booster already installed (unlike the original).  The bolt holes attaching it to the firewall didn't line up correctly.  It is basically a universal booster with an adapter mounting bracket and push rod attached to it.

From what I understand, the Bendix and Midland OEM 8" boosters are dual diaphragm.  I think it's for increased power assist and not to be safer.

I'll second that. My brake light switch works OK.

The studs are way too long so the OEM cast dual reservoir cylinder cannot be removed without pulling the entire booster. One of the reasons I went with the local master which is much shorter along with a bit of rookie not knowing what should be correct on these things.

[JayEstes 172]

I recently rebuilt my bendix booster and got some great advice about a vendor that handles our mustang parts alot:

Booster Steve

Power Brake Booster Exchange

503-238-8882

I realize you are looking for aftermarket, but you might be able to pick up a nicely done rebuild from these specialists.  After rebuilding my booster, and putting in a new MC, the brakes on my car have never been better.  (Especially nice while I was doing relatively stationary burn-outs leaving the car show yesterday...)

Honestly, they might have some good advice on a modern replacement if you give them a call and ask. They were very helpful to me when I called.  One thing I learned was that our bendix boosters have a 2 part MC push rod.  It has a nice ~1in diameter flat deep inside the booster, and the front half comes out easily when you replace the front seal.  All the repro push-rods are one piece, and the two part piece isn't remanufactured anywhere.

[lanky 44]

I know of them, everyone likes their service. My problem is that questionable cores (rust/pitting/missing parts) are being sold for hundreds of dollars and it's a gamble. 

I am not against an original at all, but I have a problem shelling that kind of money out. I haven't been able to find a reasonably priced core or original, because everyone seems to know they aren't that common.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I think the original boosters are fairly common.  A lot of Mustangs came with power brakes.  Until there is a good quality reproduction the prices are going to be high.  That seems to be the pattern anyway.  Have you tried Perogie Enterprises.  They deal in primarily used, rebuilt, and restored original parts for these cars.  They might still be expensive if everybody else is for a booster.

[lanky 44]

Maybe common wasn't correct, but desirable=$. I checked out Perogie, definitely bookmarking all possibilities. I've had decent luck finding parts on eBay in the past, and part of me is hoping a decent rebuildable booster will pop up.

I went ahead and ordered a booster bracket. Right now I'm leaning towards Cardone #54-73202 which looks correct, and are very reasonably priced even if it only lasted me 5 years. I do question the finish on it though.

[ralt962 11]

I used what used to be GPS, now LEEDS.  They are out of Niagra NY.   I bought the booster, master cylinder and pedal assembly.  All pretty reasonable.  So far so good.  I had to cut part of the dash away to make it fit and they provide the pattern.  I think that works with any of these.   I still have my FMX in the car.  Not sure if that will make a difference.  

https://leedbrakes.com/

 

 

[69Mach1_EdJ 0]

Hi Rsanter,

I just joined this site today mainly to ask about your mustang you mentioned with the Tuff Stuff Brake booster.   Is it the Model 2225NB or 2225NA?  I would guess it is after looking at the Tuff Stuff site and Summit.  My real question is do you have it installed on a Manual transmission or Automatic car? 

Here's my situation with my car.  1969 Mach1, PS, PB, 4-sp, removed 351W and now have (1970) 351C 4bbl.  

I just removed the factory PS and steering box.   Installed a Borgeson PS box.  Currently installing a new Z-bar for Borgeson from Open Tracker Racing.

The z-bar clears the Borgeson nicely, however it's range of motion is between the factory Bendix brake booster and the Borgeson "side" which gives about 3 inches of travel.  Not sure if that is going to be enough.  So i thought if I could fit the Tuff Stuff 9 inch booster, 2225NB, it would sit back closer to the firewall and allow my z-bar greater travel.  However, I can't be sure if the Tuff Stuff 9 inch booster would interfere with the clutch linkage rod where it comes through the firewall.  So that's why I was wondering if yours was installed on a Manual or Automatic vehicle.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  Thank you in advance.  

Ed

 

[rwcstang 201]

I almost did a core exchange for a duralast booster, looks exactly  like my midland minus a few things, but I got my old one rebuilt it was actually cheaper than  the repop.

I found this video in regards to knowing  if you should  stick with rebuilding your booster or purchase a new one.

60's-70's Midland / Bendix Brake Booster Knowledge

[69Mach1_EdJ 0]

Thanks rwcstang.  That was an interesting video.  My first thoughts would be to keep the Bendix.  But since I installed the aftermarket Borgeson PS box, which caused me to get the modified z-bar to fit over the steering box, it seems like the Bendix booster may be interfering with the top of the z-bar.  Seems once you modify anything, it is a cascade effect to everything else around it.   Good argument to staying completely stock I suppose.  I did see someone I think it was Machman in a post that seemed to have my same configuration that modified the z-bar again to get it to fit.    I might be able to do that but it is really tight in there.  However, the idea of putting a shorter booster like the Tuff Stuff model 2225NB may fix the clearance  to  the z-bar, with the added benefit of being able to remove the master cylinder without interference to the shock tower.  Might be a nice fix.  Still not sure if the 9 inch Booster would interfere with the clutch linkage rod from the clutch pedal to z-bar.  Anybody else out there with any thoughts on this? 

Thanks,

Ed

 

[Dave R. 85]

The people at Power Brake Booster Exchange get my vote. They fixed a booster for me last fall. This booster was purchased from a vendor known to us on the forum. The vendor bought it as NOS and sold it to me as such. To shorten the story, unable to make the power assist work I finally sent the booster to PBBE. They fixed it and returned the broken part that they found inside. I had the booster back in a week. HIGHLY recommend them for your booster needs. By the way, the broken piece had a poor attempt to repair done on it. So much for NOS.   Dave R.