Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 19, 2019 So I was cleaning up and restoring the rheostat on my headlight switch (took it apart, cleaned the contacts, relubed it). I then tested it at both ends to see what the value was. Obviously when the switch is rotated to interior light position, its brightest setting, it has no real resistance, so let's call that 0. Anyone care to guess what it was at the dimmest setting? (This is me, asking what it is supposed to be, because I got 12 ohms). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 19, 2019 Side note, my solid state CVR (constant voltage regulator for those who Google this later) puts out a very solid 5.00V from a 12V source (not the stepped down resistor wire voltage). So the question presents itself... do I need the resistor wire, or can I run a new one from the accessory post to the voltage regulator? I need to be careful... soon I'll be rewiring the whole dash area! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gordonr 4 Report post Posted March 19, 2019 I did my headlight switch a while ago to correct voltage drops through it. Especially the circuit breaker points. I found cleaning the rheostat did help with gaps of dash lighting when rotated. Unfortunately I inspected it under power to verify its operation. I also pulled the cluster and cleaned all connections , sockets and replaced the bulbs. Glued a couple fingers on the pc too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted March 19, 2019 24 minutes ago, Cantedvalve said: Side note, my solid state CVR (constant voltage regulator for those who Google this later) puts out a very solid 5.00V from a 12V source (not the stepped down resistor wire voltage). So the question presents itself... do I need the resistor wire, or can I run a new one from the accessory post to the voltage regulator? I need to be careful... soon I'll be rewiring the whole dash area! Good question. The best that I can tell, if the CVR sticks closed (to ground), then you'll burn up a non-resistor wire in a heartbeat. That's about the only reason for the resistor wire, other than to smooth out fluctuations of the CVR output (dubious proposition at best...) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 19, 2019 @Midlife i’ll leave it put then. Does my ohm reading for the rheostat look right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted March 20, 2019 12 ohms seems about right. There is a lot of tolerance when making these low resistance measurements. Corrosion on the wire connectors can add a couple ohms. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 20, 2019 My rheostat doesnt have any corrosion. I checked it again over lunch because I thought maybe I was reading voltage (I had a 12v source hooked up to it at one point). Nope. 12 ohms. That is between the R terminal and the I terminal when turned all the way down. Funny thing... when I go through the B terminal to the I terminal, I get 15 ohms... the difference being the internal breaker. I hadnt planned to do anything on the inside of the switch, but if someone tells me that 3 ohms is too much, I will. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
