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Len69Coupe

Slip yoke to trans clearance?

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Changing the I6 with 3 speed to 302 with T5. How much clearance needed between slip yoke and trans is required? Trying to figure out if I need to shorten the driveshaft. Pic is with the old slip yoke installed, but I compared it to the new yoke and don't see any difference. I don't want to install the new yoke yet if I have to have the D/S shortened.

Driveshaft.jpg

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Well, I never thought about having everything installed on the car. Right now no trunk lid, gas tank or interior. I guess I'll have to wait until I get everything back on then and measure. Any idea what's the minimum clearance once I re-install everything?

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About 1 " as you have is golden. Depending on the condition of leaf springs matters too. The more the arch in the spring is compressed the more the drive shaft will be pulled back. Get a 200 pound buddy to sit on the back and see where the drive shaft ends up.  Unless u have a lot of arch in your springs I would say u are good 

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I guess I fit the 200lb weight, but I don't think I can get the wife to do the measuring, lol.

Anyone have an idea on what it should cost to shorten the D/S? I've thought about new, but all the ones I've seen (steel) are around $250.

Thanks for the help.

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4 hours ago, RPM said:

Before you pay to shorten a drive shaft check the yoke length on your third member. Several different lengths were made, and you might luck out.

Yes, but if the third member yoke is changed, he has to be a little careful to maintain the same pinion bearing preload.

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16 hours ago, RPM said:

Before you pay to shorten a drive shaft check the yoke length on your third member. Several different lengths were made, and you might luck out.

 

11 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

Yes, but if the third member yoke is changed, he has to be a little careful to maintain the same pinion bearing preload.

 

11 hours ago, RPM said:

Ya, I always assume guys use shims and ditch the crush sleeves like me. 

I've never messed with diff gears before. I'd really hate to mess up the pre-load and have a screwed up diff. I do plan to eventually have a limited slip installed, so it may be the time to do it if I change the yoke on the diff.

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54 minutes ago, det0326 said:

I used an aluminum drive shaft from a 1998 2 door 2 wheel drive V8 explorer. As RPM said the rear end yoke makes a difference. Can't remember the length I am thinking around 51 inches

The Explorer drive shaft I picked up is 50-1/2".

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On 2/24/2019 at 8:56 AM, Len69Coupe said:

I guess I fit the 200lb weight, but I don't think I can get the wife to do the measuring, lol.

Throw a bag or 2 of ready mix concrete in the car. 

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5 hours ago, Len69Coupe said:

 

 

I've never messed with diff gears before. I'd really hate to mess up the pre-load and have a screwed up diff. I do plan to eventually have a limited slip installed, so it may be the time to do it if I change the yoke on the diff.

When changing only a pinion seal, the old school way, which I have done with success, is to mark the location of the pinion nut and count how many threads are exposed beyond the nut.  Then after replacing the seal and reinstalling the same yoke, reinstall the pinion nut (with red Loctite) back to the same location.  However, if changing the yoke, that method might not work.

Is there somebody near you that can make a driveshaft?  That's what I did.  It was simple, they told me what measurements and trans info they needed.  Two days later I had a new complete driveshaft with Spicer heavy duty U-joints and a new front yoke to fit the trans.  I had enough when I was younger searching salvage yards for driveshafts the correct length.  I don't know how much you save buying a used driveshaft from a salvage yard then at minimum replacing the U-joints on it. 

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On 2/25/2019 at 12:03 PM, RPM said:

The Explorer drive shaft I picked up is 50-1/2".

I got a aluminium driveshaft from a 2WD  Explorer & it was 50 1/2". BTW det0326 the V8 only came in the 4 door Explorers, not the 2 door.

100_1313_zps7dc0shyy.jpg

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After a lot of reading most people say the stock driveshaft is 51". Some people have gotten away with using the stock and others have had to have it shortened. The difference some have said is the 9" had to be shortened and the 8" should be good. I have the 8", so crossing my fingers.

That's a great idea about the driveshaft from an Explorer. I'll keep that in mind. Any idea what years those came from? Does it use the stock size u-joints that the 69 Mustang uses?

After a lot of reading most people say the stock driveshaft is 51". Some people have gotten away with using the stock and others have had to have it shortened. The difference some have said is the 9" had to be shortened and the 8" should be good. I have the 8", so crossing my fingers.

A friend said there is a shop about 30 miles away that can shorten the one I have. Not sure if they can make a complete shaft.

I'll load up the car with some weight and get another measurement and see where I'm at.

Thanks for the help.

 

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Good idea on using water. I think I'll wait until my son gets back into town and he can measure with me and the wife adding 320 lbs to the car.

I did find a 1996 Explorer 4X4 four door on CL that a guy is parting out. I'm not sure that would be a 50 1/2' D/S or not though. Waiting to hear back from him about a price.

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Thanks. The guy wasn't ready to part out that Explorer anyway. He's trying sell it whole first.

So when you measure, do you measure from center of u-joint cup to center of u-joint cup? If I measure that way mine is 50 1/2". 

My son is coming back in a few days, so I'll be able to get final measurements soon.

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