Machspeed 219 Report post Posted February 19, 2019 Spoke with a local media blaster yesterday. Said he'd blast my car with plastic media and promised me he would not warp the body panels. Think I'm gonna hand it over to him. I need advise now on what to do the blasted metal before epoxy priming....i.e. DA, clean, etc? After blasting may be a week before it makes it to the painter. My plan is to get it blasted, bring back to my shop for prep for epoxy priming, then haul to painter and let him prime. Car will then come back to me for seem sealing and some minor body work, then back to painter for paint. Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 20, 2019 I always DA or hand sand even after sand blasting before epoxy . Get it in primer as soon as possible ,especial if it is cold or raining . Rust will start fast 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rich Ackermann 174 Report post Posted February 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Machspeed said: Spoke with a local media blaster yesterday. Said he'd blast my car with plastic media and promised me he would not warp the body panels. Think I'm gonna hand it over to him. I need advise now on what to do the blasted metal before epoxy priming....i.e. DA, clean, etc? After blasting may be a week before it makes it to the painter. My plan is to get it blasted, bring back to my shop for prep for epoxy priming, then haul to painter and let him prime. Car will then come back to me for seem sealing and some minor body work, then back to painter for paint. Thanks! I recently had my 70 mach dustless media blasted right in my driveway. Dustless uses a mixture of water with a rust inhibitor. It does not create any heat, so no possibility of warping. I had it done two months ago and I am pleased with the result. Although I have to say it still created a mess of the area and I am still blowing media out of the car's nooks and crannies. I have not primed it yet and still no flash rust. Getting ready to sand and prime it. I plan on using a gallon of Evercoat super build 4:1 with a quart of 4:1 catalyst and then work up to a 2k primer for blocking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted February 20, 2019 We have a guy around here that does that too. I have heard good things, but it does make a mess. That process remove all the undercoating too? I've been in the shop tonight with an air scrapper removing some the heavy factory undercoating. Some of that stuff is tough to get off. Curious, what did that cost you? Yeah Ridge, had planned to hit it with a DA and some 80 grit. Was wondering if the body needed to be cleaned before and after the DA work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JET 445 43 Report post Posted February 20, 2019 It does need to be cleaned after sanding, you will be surprised at how much dirt will come off it, some people just blow it down and prime it but I would not be happy painting over all that crap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rich Ackermann 174 Report post Posted February 20, 2019 11 hours ago, Machspeed said: We have a guy around here that does that too. I have heard good things, but it does make a mess. That process remove all the undercoating too? I've been in the shop tonight with an air scrapper removing some the heavy factory undercoating. Some of that stuff is tough to get off. Curious, what did that cost you? Yeah Ridge, had planned to hit it with a DA and some 80 grit. Was wondering if the body needed to be cleaned before and after the DA work. The guy spent a full 8 hours doing the car inside, out and underneath, and a bunch of other parts, and then debris clean up afterward. Cost $1,200. He removed much of the undercoating and sound deadening in the wheel wells and firewall. The guy said that it is hard to get it all off. I did tell him to skip the floor pans since they were going to be replaced. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 20, 2019 I have never charged more than $900 to blast a car inside and out ...i have to up my rates haha 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted February 20, 2019 4 hours ago, Rich Ackermann said: The guy spent a full 8 hours doing the car inside, out and underneath, and a bunch of other parts, and then debris clean up afterward. Cost $1,200. He removed much of the undercoating and sound deadening in the wheel wells and firewall. The guy said that it is hard to get it all off. I did tell him to skip the floor pans since they were going to be replaced. Wow, 8 hours.....longer than I thought. As to the sound deadening, bought a pneumatic scraper yesterday and began scrapping. Interesting how at times it seems to come off easy and other times it is incredibly tough to remove. I was thinking last night that there is no way a blaster would remove some of this without warping a panel. Ridge made comment to that, actually. Question to all, the window sealant is a nasty gooey mess. What is the best was to remove it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 20, 2019 Scrape ,then gas on a wrag . 8 hours is about right for blasting ,depending on how much build up it has under it . The wheel tub under coat usually blows out fairly easy ,but the tar just about has to be scraped out . Lots of tar up around the cowl sides and inside the trunk ,and around the wheel tubs and floor joints . Oily under side can be a pain in the butt also ,and if they have ever been under coated it somtimes has to be scraped before blasting or tbe sand just bounces off or smears soft under coat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rich Ackermann 174 Report post Posted February 21, 2019 9 hours ago, Ridge Runner said: I have never charged more than $900 to blast a car inside and out ...i have to up my rates haha I am sure I paid for the house visit too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted February 23, 2019 1200 is more than reasonable. I don't really trust any 2K primer over Epoxy. Maybe on a small area , but not a full body. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rich Ackermann 174 Report post Posted February 23, 2019 1 hour ago, mustangstofear said: 1200 is more than reasonable. I don't really trust any 2K primer over Epoxy. Maybe on a small area , but not a full body. Hmm. Curious why? Appreciate if you would elaborate why you don't "trust" it. I not all that experienced with it. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted February 24, 2019 9 hours ago, Rich Ackermann said: Hmm. Curious why? Appreciate if you would elaborate why you don't "trust" it. I not all that experienced with it. Thanks Curious as well??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted February 24, 2019 Epoxy primer is the best primer for metal, as it fully bonds to the metal and seals it as well. No need to layer on another primer layer unless the epoxy had set for a long time with a top coat of some sort. Even then, a simple scuff of the epoxy is more than adequate for the next layer of paint material. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 24, 2019 After I had mine soda blasted ~20 years ago, I wiped it down with some forgotten liquid to counter act the soda. I then immediately sprayed it with epoxy primer. No adhesion issues since then. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted February 24, 2019 Standard operating procedure for us is strip to bare metal then epoxy. Then the next day we can start with the body work providing we haven't broken through the epoxy we will prime with PPG VP 2100. After all body work is done we will do a final prime with 3 coats of PPG NCP 271 primer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted February 24, 2019 4 hours ago, mustangstofear said: Standard operating procedure for us is strip to bare metal then epoxy. Then the next day we can start with the body work providing we haven't broken through the epoxy we will prime with PPG VP 2100. After all body work is done we will do a final prime with 3 coats of PPG NCP 271 primer. So Rich, I'm assuming PPG VP 2100 is an epoxy primer and PPG NCP 271 is a urethane primer, which differs from a 2k primer? I'm curious, have you had problems with a 2k primer over epoxy? I'm a fan of SPI products and unless things have changed, they recommend their 2k primer over their epoxy. They provide very detailed instructions on application of their products in an outline by SPI, titled "The Perfect Paint Job". I've spent a lot of time researching this and reading comments from people on the Autobody forums that are very pleased with this combination. I'm no painter, so I have no input into this. Those like you whom work in the field know much better, however, we do tend to also go with what works for us. I'm just curious if you have had issues. And, I don't want this turning into a pissing war, as I've seen threads like it. I just desire the input. Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted February 24, 2019 VP 2100 is polyester primer, it's half the cost of NCP 271. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites