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Machspeed

Car Mounted on Rotisserie. Questions?

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Just finished building my rotisserie and mounted my car. As I am by myself and it being late, don't want spin the car, at least not until I ask a few questions and have another person to help me. To those in the know. I did rotate the car to about 45 degrees, but it took effort and when released it drops with force to the level position. I'm pretty sure that I read that when a car is properly balanced on a rotisserie that it will spin almost effortlessly and stay where positioned. Is this correct?  If so, what is the best way to balance the car? I played with this a little tonight and attached are photos of where I have the car now.  Appreciated your thoughts and comments.  

 

 

Rotissorie 1.JPG

Rotisserie 2.JPG

Rotissorie 2.JPG

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Yeah, makes sense as it is bottom heavy. Having never done this, I'm a bit nervous. In fact, had a nightmare last night that had me thinking that a weld broke on my rotisserie and the car was badly damaged in the fall. Went out to the shop this morning at 5 am to check on it.....all's good!!!   I'll make those adjustments later today. Thanks buddy! 

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3 minutes ago, Casgar said:

Has anyone measured how much the body of a Fastback flexes when on a rotisserie?

That's a good question and one I thought about when mounting. In fact, am wondering now if it's okay to leave the car on the rotisserie for an extended period of time. 

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22 minutes ago, Casgar said:

Has anyone measured how much the body of a Fastback flexes when on a rotisserie?

If the car is stripped (no engine, trans, rear end etc). I don't think there will be a measurable amount of flex (unless the car is a rust bucket).

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You have to go up at both ends ,make sure the roof clears the bottom before you spin . Mine is only 2 inche clear at the bottom but it will never hit . The body will not flex on the rotisserie ,unless you remove the quarters . Sheet metal replacement should not be done on the rotisserie 

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I have the center of the pivot head to the center of rear bumper bracket at 2 1/2 inches and i am a bit top heavy ,but it still turns easily ,i think 3 1/2 inches center to center would be about perfect balance ,an inch up or down is quite a bit of weight shift

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2 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

Oh ,you did a nice job on that rotisserie.

I was going to use jacks on mine but since i attach it on the lift i just slide the rotisserie under the car on the lift and bolt it up and roll it out of the way

Thank you, Ridge. The rotisserie was primarily built using your plans as you posted on Stangnet. I liked your box configuration much better than the typical "T" configuration, much more stable. I took some ideas off other plans, as I wanted to be able to balance it better and get it on and off the rotisserie easier....don't have a lift.  Really appreciate you for continued support and all that you contribute here at 69 Stang. People like you are what makes this place.     

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Hey, and while I've got you guys attention (Jet and Ridge), how about some info on paint stripping this car? I want to bring this car to complete metal (engine bay, undercarriage, interior, etc)  and then shoot it in epoxy primer. Thought about hauling it up to Tulsa and having it media blasted, but the reputable place I was going to take it too has gone out of business. I've read nightmares too regarding media blasting. With that, thought I'd maybe save some money and strip the paint myself. Your advise would, again, be appreciated!  

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I like a sand blaster over a soda blast ,the soda blaster will polish the metal and it does somthing to the metal were primer does not like to stick,it also packs into places where you cant get it out ,sand blasting roughs up the surface where epoxy primer will be next to impossible to remove . 

I blasted everything on mine except the outer sheet metal and epoxy primed 

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4 hours ago, Machspeed said:

Thank you, Ridge. The rotisserie was primarily built using your plans as you posted on Stangnet. I liked your box configuration much better than the typical "T" configuration, much more stable. I took some ideas off other plans, as I wanted to be able to balance it better and get it on and off the rotisserie easier....don't have a lift.  Really appreciate you for continued support and all that you contribute here at 69 Stang. People like you are what makes this place.     

This link is what I assume to be Ridge's original thread on the rotis: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/build-your-own-universal-rotisserie.882074/.

Machspeed, would you like to fill us in on the differences? I don't understand the basics I guess; why the hydraulic jack and the screw jack? I would guess the screw jack is for fine balancing and the hydraulic is to lift it up near the spin position? How high does the car start off the ground-  did you have it on a rolling table or something?

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54 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said:

This link is what I assume to be Ridge's original thread on the rotis: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/build-your-own-universal-rotisserie.882074/.

Machspeed, would you like to fill us in on the differences? I don't understand the basics I guess; why the hydraulic jack and the screw jack? I would guess the screw jack is for fine balancing and the hydraulic is to lift it up near the spin position? How high does the car start off the ground-  did you have it on a rolling table or something?

I'm like you Mach, didn't understand some things and just built it using many of the dimensions from Ridge's unit as seen in the link you posted. I've been in the shop all day playing around with the completed rotisserie. If I had it to do over again, I would delete the hydraulic rams. I built them in to the rotisserie thinking the car may not clear when rotated, but it does even at the lowest level. I knew it would be close, but I did not want to risk it. Also thought I might need them to help get the car up off the jack stands, but didn't need them for that either. As a matter of fact, they inhibit 360 degree rotation, as they hit the rear bumper mounts. I can fix that with some modification, though. As it sits, basically all they do is support the front edge of the rotating head. Indeed, the screw jacks help to fine balance the car and I am very glad I incorporated that into the assembly. It spins nicely and rolls smoothly. More importantly, I don't see it tipping over, which is important to me, as I need to load it all up on a trailer.          

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Ridge, do you paint your cars on your rotisserie or do you use a body cart? It does appear that you primed at least one of them on your rotisserie. 

And lastly, those two Shelby's in the above picture, which appear to be stored in your paint booth; are they yours?

Thanks!

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I put them in epoxy primer on the rotisserie but i paint them on jack stands off the rotisserie ,dont want any loose dirt or sand getting in the paint .

The cars are both mine ,the 67 was my nephews ,i gave it to him on his 12th birthday ,he was diagnosed with leukemia shortly after and we lost him in 1999 . I didnt know it at the time but he made a will and left the car back to me ,he was 14 when we lost him . It has been sitting since 1999 . It is a GT390 with shelby fiberglass and i may finish it soon . The 69 is a CJ with Shelby fiberglass and i hope to have it off the rotisserie this summer 

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Ridge,  this is a great story.  I understand your loss of your nephew, it is terrible to go through such a thing.  I lost my brother 10 years ago to a similar situation.  You try to do all you can to make their time as valuable as you can.  Even if he could not drive it, he could dream.  I am sure he still does.  Thanks for sharing. 

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Machspeed, could you share some details on the screw jack? Like the thread diameter and pitch, rod length, the lengths of the inner and outer tubes, and the length of the crank. Does it crank easily? Would you change anything?

I assume it has a nut welded to the top of the inner tube, and a nut welded to the rod near the top, and there are a number of ways to attach the top nut/crank. The rod must spin freely in the top cap- and never fall through.

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