RobotMan 264 Report post Posted February 7, 2019 Getting ready to replace the roof skin on my sons 69 Fastback. Wanted to draw upon the wealth of knowledge on the forum and ask if there is advice or things to watch out for from lessons learned by other members when installing a new roof skin. Thanks again for your help. Rick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 Straight forward ,drill the front and rear window opening spot welds ,do not damage the small drip rail at the quarter window ,you will use this again . Melt the lead at the roof to quarter joint and drill the spot welds below the lead ,and cut a couple of welds . The drip rails are the hardest to drill out the spot welds ,the roof skin attaches directly to the drip rails,pull the skin off . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 I have seen the short drip rail at the quarter window screwed and leaded on ,and i have seen it spot welded on ,it sometimes does not come off easily Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 West Coast Cougars has a good video showing a replacement of a roof skin. Interesting stuff! I'd never tackle that myself! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 The hardest part is the roof to drip rail ,but tbey are all the same there 65 -70 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 I have a few pics of a 67 conversion i did ,i started to use a spot welder in the drip rails but couldnt get it to weld very well ,so i went back and plug welded from under the drip rails 1 Shep69 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 1 hour ago, Midlife said: West Coast Cougars has a good video showing a replacement of a roof skin. Interesting stuff! I'd never tackle that myself! A man's got to know his limitations. Harry Callahan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 Ask your self ,do you feel lucky punk ? Dirty Harry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 Looks like FUN!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JET 445 43 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 Ridge, that is a lot of welds- and every one looks perfect!. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RobotMan 264 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 I am feeling lucky! Thanks guys that is a tremendous help. Will let you know how it goes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 Forgot to mention the lead seam at the top of the windshield post ,melt out the lead there ,there will be one weld under the lead a maybe a couple of spot welds also Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 8 hours ago, JET 445 said: Ridge, that is a lot of welds- and every one looks perfect!. Well ,old pop and spatter was in a good mood and happened to make nice welds this time Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 I wish i still had my old Snapon welder ,it was actually a muffler shop welder ,but it had a timed spot weld setting and a cone made for spot welds ,it looked like a castle nut on the end ,you could push with it and see inside when making spot welds . Most welds looked like a factory spot weld when finished and most didnt even need grinding ,i shure mis it . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 This is what a spot weld cone looks like 1 SWPruett reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 333 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 I used a hose clamp and 3 strips cut from a copper pipe and made a castle on a spare nozzle (like splinting a bone with sticks in the wilderness) for my MIG welder. Use it some times and it does what the nozzle on your photo does, keep the tip at a constant distance from the weld area. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 I think it also keeps a good flow of gas on the welds ,my old snapon had a tweeko gun so this cone must still be available ,i need a new cone so i will check on it . This is like my old welder ,they are low amp for welding mufler tube and made really nice spot welds ,i am looking for another one ,the top tilts also Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 I think the top came off and it had a long cord so you could take it under somthing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SunnDogg 18 Report post Posted February 8, 2019 Was just reading about these tips the other day and stumbled across this. I have no experience with these, but seem to be in line with what you are looking for. States that it works with tweco-style torches. https://www.eastwood.com/mig-spot-weld-kit.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DocWok 30 Report post Posted February 9, 2019 9 hours ago, Ridge Runner said: Forgot to mention the lead seam at the top of the windshield post ,melt out the lead there ,there will be one weld under the lead a maybe a couple of spot welds also Hey Ridge, What do you use to fill in the recesses where it was originally lead filled, do you re-fill them with lead or use something different? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 9, 2019 Cut to fit metal strap welded in place Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
