mikee 51 Report post Posted April 1, 2019 Meanwhile in my garage.... I was considering repairing my old seat platforms, but there was no even one usable edge so I decided to build them. I am still not sure what seats I’m using so I went with standard mounting system. After I took some time to design panhard bar mounts. It wasn’t easy without axle in the car, but I double checked everything (already with planned 1 inch drop) and have still some adjusting possibilities on design of the leaf bracket. That is all I had to do on underbody, now I’m moving onto body panels, and until my quarterpanel patch arrives I’m sealing and coating underbody and engine bay. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 772 Report post Posted April 2, 2019 Nice work on the Panhard bar mounting... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted May 7, 2019 Hi A well, summer is almost here and I’m getting short with my time for work on my stang. My second passion – MTB is calling me in woods J. Anyway, I am still waiting for left quarter panel to arrive from US. Meanwhile I was at least able to repair all other small corners I did not like... 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted May 7, 2019 Nice metal work Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted May 7, 2019 55 minutes ago, mustangstofear said: Nice metal work Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted July 2, 2019 My slooooow progress. Roof to windshield area is done, now I can move to my nightmare - drip rails. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted November 12, 2019 After a while I’m back in my garage and starting working on my car. During summer I just replaced rotten Quarter panel with patch from CJ. Took some time to fit on car but is not bad. After I did last missing part – drip rails. I didn’t find them on net to buy so I made them. After primer I sealed them with self-leveling sealer from SEM. Now I’m doing putty and sending exterior. Just for increase of my motivation I installed brake lines to finally see it coming together J 1 bigmal reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted November 13, 2019 Looking good, it is coming along nicely. Thanks for posting the info on the sub frame connectors you made. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 772 Report post Posted November 13, 2019 Nice job! In previous post about torque boxes you mentioned you own a pre-production model? Can you explain? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted November 19, 2019 On 11/13/2019 at 2:19 AM, Vicfreg said: Nice job! In previous post about torque boxes you mentioned you own a pre-production model? Can you explain? Hi Victor, That was just a joke – my torque boxes were „missing“ J Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted November 19, 2019 Guys, I have a question about brake system. Is there some good producer of master cylinders in lower price range? I found many of them but reviews are sometimes terrible (except expensive Wilwood). Is there some "middle way"? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 772 Report post Posted November 20, 2019 I used a Ford Explorer/Ford Ranger Master Cylinder. I will find some pictures. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 772 Report post Posted November 20, 2019 Here is a picture of the engine compartment with the late model master cylinder. I used the small diameter dual diaphragm power brake booster. There are a lot of posts on this forum on this topic. 1 MorganLeBlanc reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 772 Report post Posted November 20, 2019 Here is the original master cylinder I tried. The brake lines came out on the passenger side of the master cylinder, way too close to the headers and engine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 772 Report post Posted November 20, 2019 This did not work for several reasons, primarily, tried it with the engine out....bad idea.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 772 Report post Posted November 20, 2019 I kept the original master cylinder (Ford Ranger on the right) and I got an Explorer master cylinder (on the left). The Explorer master cylinder had the brake line connections on the drivers side, but also had a "tilted" reservoir (due to the way it mounts in the Explorer). So... I swapped the reservoirs (they pull right out and re-insert easily with O Ring Seals), and put the Ford Ranger reservoir on the Explorer body...and..... That's the rest of the story. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 772 Report post Posted November 20, 2019 Oh....you will have to enlarge the mounting bolt holes to fit the older booster. You will also need to go to local parts store and source some metric to SAE brake fittings to make this all work. I also used a Wilwood proportioning valve to ensure I had proper braking from front to rear. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted November 20, 2019 Thanks man, you are better than CJ ponny video manual! Exactly what I was looking for, this helped me a lot, even possibility to use booster as well. That engine bay is just lovely. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 772 Report post Posted November 27, 2019 Thanks Mikee. Lot's of hours in the engine bay, all the wiring is hidden in the fenderwells…. hope you don't have too cold of a winter.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted January 20, 2020 So the winter is not so cold, but free time is missing.. I had just fabricated some parts needed for Panhard system, repaired door hinge and made back plates (mate them with metric threads), I broke some bolts by removing door.I realized that at this point I must install the door and check my body lines before I repair door skins. So next step - rebuild hinges a mount the door. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted March 2, 2020 Hi Guys, I need some advice. I used overlap joint on door repair (in attempt to get some reinforcement in this area ), and anyway I tried to weld cold and I blow single tack cold i got pretty deep valley in my repair joint. Its between appr. 3/8 to 1/4 inch deep and Id like to get at least under 3/8 before some filler work. Is there any trick or simple method to do it? I'm just thinking about preheat it and hammer to stretch in weld joint.... Thanks for any advice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 333 Report post Posted March 3, 2020 I would grind the weld smooth then use a body hammer and dolly to push the weld area out cold. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted March 16, 2020 Thanks Aslanefe, you were right, Its working even cold. Its not easy to hammer inside the door, but its possible. Its challenge for me and even for my neighbor (he loves me hammering :) ) To all of you Guys, stay safe and healthy in this terrible times. Good Luck to us all !!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 333 Report post Posted March 16, 2020 1 hour ago, mikee said: Thanks Aslanefe, you were right, Its working even cold. Its not easy to hammer inside the door, but its possible. Its challenge for me and even for my neighbor (he loves me hammering :) ) To all of you Guys, stay safe and healthy in this terrible times. Good Luck to us all !!! Looking good. When I have to hammer inside close/tight areas, I use a dolly as a hammer instead of a body hammer with a handle. By using a dolly as hammer, you do not have to swing it as wide to move the metal compared to a hammer. Close to the ends where you can't get a hammer or dolly to swing, I push the dent out in very small sections with one of my body picks (like the ones used by paintless dent removal folks), a pry bar or a flat screw driver I modify the end. 1 Caseyrhe reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted April 30, 2020 So, both door repaired, and checked how lines and gaps fit. Now I need to install my rack / pinion steering that I finally found as suitable for my car. In loving memory the donor (Opel Astra) and long life to king :). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites