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mikee

69 coupe from SVK

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Ed is correct about using the step drill bit. They drill thru sheet metal much better, and drill round holes. A large drill bit used on sheet metal will produce a hole that is not round. If you are stuck using a standard bit, put a piece of fabric between the bit and the pilot hole. This silly sounding trick will make the hole round. 

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Thanks for your tips! I bought the bit – closest is 13,5 mm, but won’t use it. I’ll go with 13mm step drill bit and file it as needed. But I have to try the fabric trick today J, I’m curious

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If you want my old bit I have it and it was only used for 4 holes.  I don't know how long it would take to get to Slovakia but I could look into it.  I live in an area of Texas that had a lot of Czech and Slovak immigration.  My Grandfather's family came from Trnava, Slovakia 

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Thanks Ed, you are kind. I finished drilling yesterday, and the fit is nice tight. Thanks anyway!
Yeah, there are many Slovak and of course Czech immigrants in US (not that much as Polish :), mostly on East Coast – NY, PA (Pittsburg).  You Grandfathers family came probably in first immigration wave from SK to US. I have to admit, that I was thinking to stay in US too in 2007. I spent 2 years in NY City, but after my visa expired, I decided to come back, because a legal way to stay was too complicated.  

 

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Well, I chose the hard way...

I bought a steel sheet (18 Gauge) and started to fabricate own floor pans. I wasn’t sure if my first attempt to bead some panel will be success, or just metal scrap.  It’s not the exact copy of original – rolls geometry of the bead roller machine didn’t allow me to make the grooves as close as needed, but I’m happy with the result.

 

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Finally done with floor pans! Still have to fabricate both seat platforms, and by this I’m thinking to delete openings for seat fasteners in floor pan and modify seat platform.

Now working on tail frame part - weir distorted frame arches. I’m adding extra stiffening plate because I have no idea what is the cause of this damage. Also, I’m starting to measure out position of elements for panhard bar on frame. 

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On ‎3‎/‎4‎/‎2019 at 6:09 PM, newstang said:

Are you in the Autobody business? you seem to know exactly what your doing.

 

No I'm not (but working as Welding Engineer), I'm learning from you guys, but Thanks I appreciate that a lot. 

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On ‎3‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 3:17 AM, RPM said:

I thought all 69's came with front torque boxes, where are yours?  :)

:) I'm the lucky owner of pre-production model

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Short weekend summary – finished my sub frame connectors. Now to repair the last damage at rear frame – some nasty holes after woodscrews used to attach exhaust rubber bent by previous owner. And then hooray on body panels…

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6 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

Did you  make the  subframe  connectors ?

Yes, even though I modified my drawing design during building it. The plate for the rear part of frame was twice so long as used at the end. I decide to cut it and save some weight :) 

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On ‎3‎/‎16‎/‎2019 at 6:02 PM, Mike65 said:

mikee, I am interested in seeing your drawings of the sub frame connectors. I am thinking of making some for my 69 Coupe, & I like the way yours look.

Sure Mike, I will correct the drawing “as build” tonight.  

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Here is a .pdf file. I added dual units into drawing for easier conversion. Also modified rip at rear-end – 2 holes (I have only one) for optional x-member. I need to install exhaust and shaft to be able take good measurements.

I hope it helps someone…  

S-FRAME 69 Coupe DS.pdf

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9 hours ago, Mike65 said:

Thanks mikee. What units of measurement did you use?.

Milimeters first and Inch in angle brackets. Deawing is for drivers side inly, you have to mirror it for passenger. If you miss some measurement, or detail,  just let me know.

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