ken 0 Report post Posted January 11, 2019 Im in the process of removing my fmx and upgrading to a tremec 5speed. I have a break and clutch pedal from a '69. will those attach to the old assembly if i remove the old break pedal? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted January 12, 2019 Depends if was for manual or power brakes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted January 12, 2019 67 -68 you can ,i am not sure about 69 -70 but i would bet you can Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 12, 2019 If you have power brakes, the master cylinder has to match the pedal year. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EastYorkStang 63 Report post Posted January 12, 2019 The clutch pedal slides into the existing bulkhead. Get new bushings. Get a brake pedal pad for a manual trans car. Cut down the brake pedal you have. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted January 12, 2019 For power brakes, the 69 and 70 use different brake pedals. Not certain about manual brakes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted January 12, 2019 There are 4 brake pedals manual brakes & manual transmission manual brakes & automatic transmission power brakes & manual transmission power brakes & automatic transmission Manual brake pedals ride on the clutch pedal shaft on a manual transmission car and on a dummy shaft on an automatic transmission car. Power brake pedals ride on a dummy shaft high up on the pedal bracket for both transmissions however the foot pad is different for each. There may also be differences in master cylinders between each of the 4 combinations. Completely doable, just make sure you have the right combination. And yes, you can cut down the foot pad on an automatic pedal for a manual application. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 12, 2019 On 1/10/2019 at 5:47 PM, ken said: I have a break and clutch pedal from a '69. will those attach to the old assembly if i remove the old break pedal? Ya, Ken is going to have to post some info before he can do the swap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted January 13, 2019 The manual brake pedal has a higher pivot point compared to the power which is a lot lower on the pedal. We only use the manual pedal for all our brakes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted January 13, 2019 2 hours ago, mustangstofear said: The manual brake pedal has a higher pivot point compared to the power which is a lot lower on the pedal. We only use the manual pedal for all our brakes. You've got that reversed. 1st pic - My rebuilt oem manual brake pedal, clutch pedal and bracket. Hole to right of red clip in pic is where power brake pedals mount. 2nd pic - A 70 setup on right with power brake pedal. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 13, 2019 4 hours ago, RogerC said: You've got that reversed. Yup. 1 ken reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted January 13, 2019 Not sure how I have it reversed. We use the high pivot point on every pedal assembly we build with a manual M/C. We never use a power booster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 14, 2019 How do you get enough leverage for the psi required with the 5 inch pivot point as opposed to the stock 2" fulcrum? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ken 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2019 Thanks for all the input. Sorry for taking so long to get back. The car is a power brake car, and the pedals from the 69' are power too. I don't have an assembly for a manual trans, do i need to buy one? There quite expensive around $500 or more. and i don't want an after market product. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EastYorkStang 63 Report post Posted January 16, 2019 No. All you need is a clutch pedal for your year. Cut down the brake pedal to match. 1 ken reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EastYorkStang 63 Report post Posted January 16, 2019 No. All you need is a clutch pedal for your year. Cut down the brake pedal to match. http://transmission.moderndriveline.com/speed/pc/Clutch-pedal-69-70-Mustang-Cougar-45p198.htm 1 ken reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ken 0 Report post Posted January 18, 2019 Looks like the one from the 69' I already have. Thanks again guys, you saved me some money! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smh00n 87 Report post Posted January 18, 2019 So i'm going to hijack this thread :) I have a 70 fitted with a 69 booster and power brake pedal. The car is auto and was originally drum brake as far as I can tell. The brake pedal has no real feel - it travels a long way (relative to a modern) and seems to bottom out. The retardation is not real flash and seems to be only working at the very end of the travel. The brake shop I got to check it all reckoned the booster pedal point would be better off higher. The brake pedal is up on the top bolt. Is changing to a manual brake pedal hanging off the lower pivot hole going to work? I'll be changing this to a 5 speed over the next months using a Modern Driveline cable clutch kit so will that change things? I have spent months on this thing eradicating a rear lock up issue and now I have no pedal feel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EastYorkStang 63 Report post Posted January 18, 2019 I think your best deal is to start a new post as this will be buried and you won't get the answers you need. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted January 18, 2019 On 01/13/2019 at 2:32 PM, mustangstofear said: Not sure how I have it reversed. We use the high pivot point on every pedal assembly we build with a manual M/C. We never use a power booster. RogerC and RPM have it correct. For factory manual brakes the pivot is lower, closer to the where the master cylinder push rod attaches to the pedal to reduce pedal effort. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ken 0 Report post Posted January 28, 2019 The tremec 5speed is in and works well! thanks guys.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whoapony 17 Report post Posted March 13, 2019 On 1/18/2019 at 3:12 AM, smh00n said: So i'm going to hijack this thread :) I have a 70 fitted with a 69 booster and power brake pedal. The car is auto and was originally drum brake as far as I can tell. The brake pedal has no real feel - it travels a long way (relative to a modern) and seems to bottomut. The retardation is not real flash and seems to be only working at the very end of the travel. Did you adjust the brake booster rod already? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smh00n 87 Report post Posted March 13, 2019 4 hours ago, whoapony said: Did you adjust the brake booster rod already? Yes. Long story cut short I think I managed to put the wrong thickness reaction pad on the booster pushrod so it was too short. This happened as I put the OEM master cylinder in along with a local master cylinder which used different pushrods. Changed it, budda bing great brakes. Not impressed with the shop - I told them to start from the beginning but they just made assumptions and wasted my money. Just another reason to do things yourself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
