My new 1970 M-Code Mach 1 Project

[Rich Ackermann 174]

Getting ready to install the rear brakes and all the lines. In the meantime, I have always loved the look of the 67-68 overhead console. I looked at the dimensions of the console and how it mounts to the roof brackets. So i decided to buy one and give it a shot. It worked out. BTW: I plan on installing the stock type moonskin headliner, not one of those hard shell versions.

The rear bracket worked as is and is held solidly in place by 4 screws to the roof cross member. but I had to modify the front bracket. First I made an "L" bracket and body glued it to the roof. I reshaped the stock front bracket to attach to the "L" bracket and the windshield frame by 5 srews.The console held by 4 screws to these two brackets. There appears to be no clearance issues with the the headliner wire supports (whatever they are called). 

The overhead console has two on/off buttons on it and is designed to only work with constant unswitched 12 volt power just like the hood and trunk lights (the stock green wire with the yellow line). I rewired the console to also work with the interior lights with the door jamb and headlight switches, like the stock sail panel lights (stock blue wire with a black line). This required adding a couple of one-way diodes to prevent the constant unswitched circuit from feeding 12v back to the interior switched light circuit. Now the lights work from the on/off buttons or when opening the door or turning the headlight switch.

 

[Mike65 475]

Nice work, looks good.

[RPM 1,190]

 Nice mod there. Kinda wish I'd have purchased the one piece MTF headliner console instead of the plain headliner. It gets mighty dark in there. 

[stangman69 17]

Looking good, Rich.

[Rich Ackermann 174]

Finished installing the emergency brake cables, adjusting the calipers, and bending the rear axle brake lines to fit my aftermarket/ Eldorado disc brakes. Since I bought stainless steel lines, I was not able to cut them to fit the aftermarket flex hoses, so I found a Banjo to 3/16 line female inverted flare adapter and just bent the lines to connect directly to the caliper. Looks more stock like. Yes, I will have to disconnect the line to remove the rotor and/or caliper, but that's not an issue for me.

 

[MorganLeBlanc 52]

Looks good Rick.  I thought the overhead console was just map lights.  Where did the rear disc brake kit come from?  Down the road I am looking at the open tracker read disc brake kit.

[RPM 1,190]

Dang Rick, wish I'd have known you were going with the Eldo rear discs. I've got an unused set that I'd have given you. 

[Rich Ackermann 174]

8 minutes ago, RPM said:

Dang Rick, wish I'd have known you were going with the Eldo rear discs. I've got an unused set that I'd have given you. 

I didn't know the CPP aftermarket kit came with Eldorado calipers until I got my hands on them. Darn! I understand these calipers are a very common retro fit for our cars. The trick I learned with them is to make sure you adjust the piston so the eBrake works properly. Out of the box they the calipers/pads are very loose.

[Rich Ackermann 174]

1 hour ago, MorganLeBlanc said:

Looks good Rick.  I thought the overhead console was just map lights.  Where did the rear disc brake kit come from?  Down the road I am looking at the open tracker read disc brake kit.

Morgan,

I bought the kits from CPP. The kit came with the calipers and brackets, and rotors (I upgraded to slotted), and flex hose with mounting brackets. It also comes with a generic e-brake cable kit, similar to a Lokar kit used by Wilwood. The e-brake kit was a straight forward install using the original front cable to pedal, tensioner location and hook, and rear mounting bracket locations. The stock cable connector is a bit short for the kit cable terminators but works.  I may buy a stock cougar cable connector which is a few inches longer and will accommodate the terminators better. The kit comes with a nice cable conduit whihc you only need about two feet of it on the left and right for the rear section after to bracket to the calipers. I decide to put the rest to good use over the cable as it runs under the floor pan. See pic below....

Yes, out of the box the overhead console has two on/off map light buttons on it and is designed to only work with constant unswitched 12 volt power just like the hood and trunk lights (using the stock green / yellow line wire). I rewired the console to also work with the interior courtesy lights when using the door jamb and headlight switches, like the stock sail panel lights (uses the stock blue / black line wire). This required adding a couple of one-way diodes to prevent the constant unswitched circuit from back-feeding 12v to the interior switched light circuit. Now the lights work from the on/off buttons or when opening the door or turning the headlight switch.

After all that, I decide to go a step further and replace the brushed aluminum with wood grain to match the rest of the 70 deluxe interior wood grain AND then I added a red accent strip around it to match the vermilion headliner and interior color. The accent strip also illuminates red when the interior courtesy lights are on. I thought about making it light with the dash lights but that would require more wiring... maybe I do it not sure yet.

 

 

[MorganLeBlanc 52]

Wow it looks fantastic! You have done a great job.

[Rich Ackermann 174]

On 4/27/2020 at 10:08 PM, MorganLeBlanc said:

Wow it looks fantastic! You have done a great job.

Thanks for your email and encouraging words. Next I be installing some electrical wiring to the roof and tail end, then the headliner and glass. 

[Rich Ackermann 174]

On 4/28/2020 at 7:51 AM, Rich Ackermann said:

Thanks for your email and encouraging words. Next I be installing some electrical wiring to the roof and tail end, then the headliner and glass. 

I have started on the moonskin headliner... I have to say installing it is not fun! I have it smoothed out but for the corners. The original Carlite rear and quarter clear glass is being tinted. Should have back on Wednesday. Still need to buy a windshield. I am happy with how the overhead console turned out.

I have worked out all but the corner stretch marks since I took these pics. I added the red accent strip to the console and wired it so it lights up when the dash lights are on, or with the dome lights when the door opens.

[Rich Ackermann 174]

My New Relics power window kit came today... cant wait to get that installed and wired up.

 

[aslanefe 333]

19 minutes ago, Rich Ackermann said:

My New Relics power window kit came today... cant wait to get that installed and wired up.

 

Are you having the generic stick on window tint done on rear and side glass?

[Rich Ackermann 174]

2 hours ago, aslanefe said:

Are you having the generic stick on window tint done on rear and side glass?

Well, I really don't know. I have never had window tinting done before. I know its not the metallic kind. I am not getting the door glass done until after I take the car thru DMV inspection.

[Rich Ackermann 174]

Had the rear glass and quarter windows tinted 30%. Had them done off the car. Held off on getting the door glass done until after I get the car thru DMV inspection to avoid failing. Installed my Nu Relic power window regulators and door glass. Also installed the tinted quarter glass, rear glass and my motorized side-view mirrors. 

Also inserted my custom made set of Tri-Bar Pony center caps on my new US Mags Bandit wheels, they fit like they were made for them. Happy to get the manufacturers name off them.

Next up installing the Vintage Air air-box and work on the dash wiring.

[Mike65 475]

Nice work Rich.

[Rich Ackermann 174]

More progress...spoiler, wheel lip and rocker moldings. Taillights and panel... I know some folks don't like how painted them. 

 

 

[Mike65 475]

Looks good Rich.

[Rich Ackermann 174]

Progress has been slow lately. But I have much of the electrical wiring done. I now have my exterior lighting mods installed and tested, including the led switchbacks in the front fender extensions and the sequential arrows in the power side view mirrors. I also used red led bulbs in the taillights. I used red instead of clear led bulbs to avoid the orange color effect in the lens, as a result of the brighter led bulbs. See the video link below.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AuF11H1Kul6fwG98iUZuD52EK00T?e=X2qLZq

[Vicfreg 771]

Rich, beautiful build.  I am very interested in your LED light installation in the headlight buckets.  I have been looking high and low for some LEDs that will fit in there and look good.  I tried some Raptor LEDs....it was way over the top.(see picture).   Also, what flasher did you use to make the LEDs work?  I have LED taillights also.

Thanks. 

Looking great!

 

Vic

[Rich Ackermann 174]

3 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Rich, beautiful build.  I am very interested in your LED light installation in the headlight buckets.  I have been looking high and low for some LEDs that will fit in there and look good.  I tried some Raptor LEDs....it was way over the top.(see picture).   Also, what flasher did you use to make the LEDs work?  I have LED taillights also.

Thanks. 

Looking great!

Vic

 

 

Quote

 

Hi Vic,

I like what you did a lot! They look fantastic! But I agree they are very bright.

I have some pictures of what did that I posted below, unfortunately its not much, so I will describe it as best I can...

I made wood mold the same shape and size as the plastic block outs used on our 1970 Mustang. I then cut some thin ABS the same shape the plastic block outs but a 1/2 or 3/4 inch larger all around. I then heated and flexed the ABS around the wood mold. Nothing fancy as it would not be seen. Then using a flat piece of plastic tinted license plate cover (the kind you can buy at any auto parts store), I cut out the lens again the same shape as the plastic block outs, but a little oversize to ensure I had some overlap to marry the ABS enclosure together with the tinted lens. I then drilled the mounting holes thru both parts. This was a bit difficult to get the holes in the right spot and angled correctly the way they are on the original plastic block outs. I then temporarily stuck the LED Amber White switchback Turn Signal Indicator strips to the enclosure and drilled a hole for the three wires to come thru the bottom of the enclosure. With a little trial and error I was able to adjust them until they were position perfectly in each of the horizontal slots. My preference was to have the LEDs hidden when not on so the ports still looked blacked out as they originally did. Furthermore, I wanted to prevent the LEDs from glaring brightly, so I was prepared to add another layer of the tinted license plate plastic to darken the lens further if needed, but in the end I did not need to. Finally, the LED strips are weather/waterproof, but I felt the enclosure sealed properly with a small drain hole in the lower bottom end would help keep them clean and dry. I originally used a heavy duty LED two prong Flasher relay in the factory plug and it worked just fine, but later I decide to try a three prong Adjustable flasher relay to help keep all the incandescent bulbs I still had along with the turn signal arrows in my side vie mirrors and these LED switchback strips all in better harmony. The three prong still fit in the two prong factory socket with the third wire being ground, so I just wired it to the dash.

I made mine about two years ago now. The LED Amber White switchback Turn Signal Indicator strips I used were 12v compatible without a transformer which made it easier to thread the wires. Today, I see that there are improved 12v LED switchback strips that are one continuous rope light and cat be cut to length as needed. I may have to try these next go-round.

Here is what I used... The last picture is one of the new rope like LED switchback turn signal indicators I found on ebay. I think these would work even better than the ones I used.

BTW: I bought the LEDS on eBay and the two prong heavy duty flasher relay from NAPA, and the three prong adjustable on Amazon.

[Vicfreg 771]

Hey Rich. Sorry I have not replied sooner.  Thanks for the detailed explanation.  

It looks like you made spacers that the screws go through to mount the black tinted plastic to the headlight housing.  I am not clear on how you mounted the wood and ABS backing to the headlight bucket.  Just with those 2 screws?

 

 

[Rich Ackermann 174]

 

On 1/30/2021 at 7:19 PM, Vicfreg said:

Hey Rich. Sorry I have not replied sooner.  Thanks for the detailed explanation.  

It looks like you made spacers that the screws go through to mount the black tinted plastic to the headlight housing.  I am not clear on how you mounted the wood and ABS backing to the headlight bucket.  Just with those 2 screws?

 

 

Vic,

The wood was only used with heat to mold the ABS plastic into the shape of the block-out plates and the tinted lens. I used heat to bend the ABS edges over the wood edges at a 90 degree angle. I cut the ABS at the corners to help create a "flap" that I could fold over. Making it easier to get the shape needed. Sorry I don't have more pics of the steps I took. Lost them a year ago when my phone memory became corrupt. Anyway, yes I used two screws thru the ABS plastic housing and thru the tinted plastic into the original block-out mounting holes in the Fender Cap. The spacers were there allow me to tighten the screws without crushing the ABS plastic housing. I drilled a small drain hole in the lowest point and also a hole for the LED wires to exit the assembly. I mounted with adhesive tape the LED strips in side the housing to the ABS plastic making sure there was a little bit of space inside the housing between the tinted lens and the LED strip. Once I was happy with how it all fit together and mounted to the fender cap, I used hot glue to seal and hold it all together. Below is a graphical drawing of the side view or profile of the housing with all the parts identified. I hope it helps make things clearer.  If not, don't hesitate to ask ....

 

 

[Rich Ackermann 174]

It's been awhile since i updated all on my project. I spent a lot time on the electrical, the stereo, and the rear fold down seat, and dash components recently. Also, was waiting on my engine builder to get the engine done.

Well the engine is back and I dropped it in. Was thinking I had an issue with the valve cover making contact with the brake booster and the Sanderson shorty headers hitting the CPP GM style steering box. Today I installed the tremec tko 600, billet steel fly wheel,, Quicktime bell housing,, Kevlar clutch with a hydraulic clutch that I bought from MDL. It went right in and all my clearance issues and concerns vanished now that the engine was level. What a relief!

Furthermore, I had installed an Edelbrock Air Gap intake, which everyone told would not work with a shaker because the intake is too high. So, I decided to use a 428 air cleaner base which along with 351W has a lower profile, but also has a different offset. Well I can happily say I don't have a height issue and I just clocked the 428 base to align the distributor concave area and re-drilled the holes in the top to straighten out the scoop. I have to fabricate a offset plate to properly seal the base to the top (plenum), since the plenum is shifted forward about an inch forward over the base. The offset plate is an easy thing to do

next up, wire up the Holley sniper and Hyperspark distributor and Ignition. Finish assembling the front end of the motor, and grill/bumper, exhaust, and interior. Finally the windshield and driveshaft. Then it should be road test ready.

The last pic shows a good shot up from underneath the driver's side header, where you can see the clearance with the steering  in and further up daylight between the valve cover and the booster.