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Dynacorn Rant

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So instead of just cursing them out as Im trying to work, i figure lets see if im the only one in the world with these issues.

So this is the 3rd 69 ive built and each time I say to myself, Crap, I dont remember this happening before!

First issue, Installed the new full trunk floor, and dry fit the inner wheel well. , there is at least 3/8 space between the floor drop and the well lip. This im sure is not meant to be, 

so, ill need to pound it at the bend and bring it closer.

By the way, in the pic of the dynacorn floor there is the floor, brace and two extra pcs I have no idea what they are for. Any Ideas?

 

Second. on the trunk floor it says " Requires new bumper brackets" 

Thats it, Not which brackets just needs them. 

Much to my surprise, there are brackets on it. Of course, it does not fit our tail panel. so all this extra friggen labor to cut them off instead of not putting them on in the first place.

No explanation or notes on the site either.

for the money they charge, shouldn't this crap come with it?

 

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11 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

Dynacorn  would be  better off  to  let the customer  weld the rear bumper  brackets  on. They never  line up 

they could at least provide the correct ones instead of having us cut off the incorrect ones. 

On top of it all, ive been wondering why the floor pan they sent didnt quite fit anything correctly in the tunnel area, it turns out its not for 69, its 65-ish

 

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1 hour ago, newstang said:

On top of it all, ive been wondering why the floor pan they sent didnt quite fit anything correctly in the tunnel area, it turns out its not for 69, its 65-ish

 

Do they have a few different part numbers for different years? I thought they only made the early pan and say fits other years with modification and or the ribbing etc is different.

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Anybody using Dyacorn door shells on the 69/70? How well do they fit? Reading this thread I am beginning to wonder if I should not use Dyacorn sheetmetal in my restoration. Right now I am looking to buy LH & RH floors, Cowl, Quarter skins, and radiator support and was leaning towards Dyacorn.

Any thoughts or comment from those with experience?

Thanks

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looks like its probably my fault.

I just looked at the dynacorn site and see the full floor pan says "modify for CV" guess i was lazy and assumed the earlier pans were essentially the same except for ribbing. its not. there are several differences where it simply wont fit without heat and hammers. 
The tunnel is narrower, the shifter hole is small and square and there is an indentation right by the shifter. the rear of the pan doesn't quite reach the wheel well.

As far as not using dynacorn. the weld through stuff is made unbelievably well. but in short, what choice do you think you have?

 

 

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20 hours ago, aslanefe said:

Do they have a few different part numbers for different years? I thought they only made the early pan and say fits other years with modification and or the ribbing etc is different.

yes, i must have ordered the one made for a convertible for earlier mustang, the one for 69-70 needs modification for a convertible. 

I thought they were all the same.

 

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On ‎12‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 2:35 AM, Rich Ackermann said:

Anybody using Dyacorn door shells on the 69/70? How well do they fit? Reading this thread I am beginning to wonder if I should not use Dyacorn sheetmetal in my restoration. Right now I am looking to buy LH & RH floors, Cowl, Quarter skins, and radiator support and was leaning towards Dyacorn.

Any thoughts or comment from those with experience?

Thanks

I have used Dynacorn parts throughout my build, and they are much better than the parts of yester-year. I installed full quarter panels, one fit perfect the other didn't want to go on the car. With a few adjustments it fits. Installed a full cowl, radiator support rear bulk head (whatever the rear seat structure is called) trunk filler, tail light panel, both door skins, outer A pillars... the list is extensive. I wouldn't hesitate to use (and have used) Dynacorn products on several builds, and will continue using their products. They are not perfect by any means, but much better than others. NPD parts (Golden Legion I think) are good also, but probably stamped by the same metal manufacturer and re-branded.

I would highly recommend using a one piece floor instead of having to weld in long pans. The above issue with the floor not fitting the transmission tunnel support is common and requires some finessing, but the factory parts did not fit that area well either.

 

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19 hours ago, latoracing said:

I have used Dynacorn parts throughout my build, and they are much better than the parts of yester-year. I installed full quarter panels, one fit perfect the other didn't want to go on the car. With a few adjustments it fits. Installed a full cowl, radiator support rear bulk head (whatever the rear seat structure is called) trunk filler, tail light panel, both door skins, outer A pillars... the list is extensive. I wouldn't hesitate to use (and have used) Dynacorn products on several builds, and will continue using their products. They are not perfect by any means, but much better than others. NPD parts (Golden Legion I think) are good also, but probably stamped by the same metal manufacturer and re-branded.

I would highly recommend using a one piece floor instead of having to weld in long pans. The above issue with the floor not fitting the transmission tunnel support is common and requires some finessing, but the factory parts did not fit that area well either.

 

 

Thanks latoracing.  Regarding the full floor vs the long floor pans. My original plan was to go with the full floor pan, but I changed my mind because the sections under the rear seats are perfect and I see no reason to disturb that area, plus the tunnel is fine as well. I do need to replace the LH & RH toe board area from the floors to the vertical firewall piece. Also the cowl and the RH inner cowl/kick panel area and one or both torque boxes.

I have read that some repop full floors do not have the hump to accommodate the Hurst Shifter use on 1970 cars.  Does the Dyancorn have it?

Also, the toe board patches not stamped specifically for 69-70 models and folks have had trouble with fitting them in. I was thinking of getting the full one piece firewall with the hump and toe boards for a 69-70 and cutting out the toe board areas I need. My otherwise my firewall, outer cowls are fine and I am thinking I should avoid removing the entire firewall and floor. Hoping by not disturbing the firewall, tunnel, and rear seat area, it helps keeps the rest of the car in place.

All that said, that is why I changed my plan from full to full floor patches. So now after your advice here I am back on the fence. Having read my replacement needs above, do you still recommend I use the full Dynacorn pan and maybe just cut off the rear seat section from the new pan? Is there enough overlap on the full pan to meet up with the replacement toe boards.

Thanks again for your help!

 

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I have installed numerous long pans before one piece floors were readily available. My biggest issue with welding in long pans is the tedious butt welding and grinding of the seams. I have installed them with a lap weld, which doesn't look good on the inside. All of these were done on a creeper, not fun. I love to weld, but can't justify all the work it takes when there are easier and cleaner ways to accomplish the task. If the car was some sort of concourse / RARE restoration, patching is the way to go, otherwise get the best full floor pan you can afford and avoid the generic one pan fits all model. 15 hours +/- installed full floor vs 40 + hrs for long pans... As long as the car is braced properly it will not hurt to remove the entire floor.

Toe boards are interesting, especially under the steering column. If the areas are small I would just fabricate the replacement areas from flat sheet metal and butt weld them in place. If you get patch panels you'll end up making them fit and having to undo some areas that are stamped. Patch panels are usually pretty poor in fitment as they are usually cut into small pieces and lack a lot of the original panel detail. You can go with a new firewall, depending on your level of confidence and abilities. I've seen a lot of people new to bodywork put together some really nice cars using these aftermarket parts.

I still like the parts Dynacorn and other vendors are stepping up to make, which is making this hobby much easier to get involved with. 20 years ago there were limited replacement aftermarket parts available and you could get some NOS parts. We are building cars now that several years ago would have been crushed due to the extensive damaged metal.  Having these parts where you can buy pre-assembled floor / trunk / front frame rails, cowls, doors... is relying on someone else to weld the parts together accurately, then attempt to put them in a chassis that is 50 years old. I don't like the parts assembled, and much like the OP they have to be cut back apart to properly fit them. I'm thankful to have these parts, even though they don't work sometimes and need some fitting, cause there are more cars back on the roads instead of rusting away in some field or melted down.

 

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My thinking as well ,it is way easier and better to do a full floor than to piece one in . The Dynacorn pans fit fairly well ,a few screws to pull it all in place then weld in the screw holes after the floor is set the way you want it .

I do not like the pre welded panels either ,they were not welded together with the same quality you would do your self .

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18 hours ago, newstang said:

Yea, lets tell them what its like to run your hand across those spot welds!

ever touch barbed wire :-)

 

Happens on some of the factory welds also, so at least in this regard, they are made "factory correct", lol.

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27 minutes ago, barnett468 said:

Happens on some of the factory welds also, so at least in this regard, they are made "factory correct", lol.

we wouldnt know, those factory welds would have converted to factory rust here :-)

 

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