Rear Main Seal 351W

[barnett468 418]

i am a comp cams dealer. the bottom of several lifter sets they sent me looked like they were surfaced by dragging them thru a parking lot, plus i have had several leak.

the viscosity of the oil is not the biggest issue, it is the low level of zddp.

 

 

[1969_Mach1 333]

On ‎10‎/‎23‎/‎2018 at 8:27 PM, ralt962 said:

I'm using non blend oil.  It was fresh when I put the pan back on.   Its not racing oil.  Its a new build and thought it would not need the 10-40 oil viscosity (after break in).  But agree something better with the flat tappet will be next.  Given I"m not going anywhere with the leak and I have and winter setting in I'll likely drain this out anyway.  Will go with the 40 weight and try GTX.  I've had luck with that in the past also.  Used Valvoline racing in all my race cars in the past.  Built a number of engines during those days and never had issues like these.  But then race car parts were much more expensive.

I broke the engine in with zinc comp cams additive and Rotella (although the diesel oils dont seem to have as much zinc as they used to).

The oil drips down the front cover of the trans cover plate vs coming down the oil pan.  There is very little clearance between the trans cover and the oil pan.  

Appreciate your help.  Its been a long time since I rebuilt a real motor.  Disappointed in the quality of the "new" parts I've bought for this.  Chased those issues all summer long.

You mention not using the car during the winter months.  One main reason I switch to the Lucus Hot Rod and Classic Car oil is because Lucus claims it's designed to cling to surfaces to help prevent dry starts on cars that are not driven very often.  I don't drive mine very often.  When I pull a valve cover there is a much heavier film (layer) of oil on everything than with any other oil I have used in including Valvoline Racing oil.  I use a hyd. roller cam, but this oil is also made to work with flat tappet cams so it has enough ZDDP.

You are right, the rear rail (or flange if you will) on aftermarket oil pans is much wider than stock.  I had to work mine some because it was actually pushing up against the plate on the back of the block.

[barnett468 418]

"cling" is increased by adding wax

[1969_Mach1 333]

Is that bad?  I don't know.  I will add that Lucus recommends changing the oil at 3000 mi. intervals unlike today's other oils.  I'm guessing it doesn't clean as well as others.  But for somebody like me that rarely has time to drive the car that's not an issue.  Really, my only issue with Valvoline Racing oil is I could only find it in 10W-30 or 20W-50.  Otherwise I like that oil as well. Is the Valvoline Racing oil readily available in other viscosities?

[barnett468 418]

3 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

Is that bad?  I don't know.

Really, my only issue with Valvoline Racing oil is I could only find it in 10W-30 or 20W-50.  Otherwise I like that oil as well. Is the Valvoline Racing oil readily available in other viscosities?

Not really bad per se, it's just another additive some mfg's use, but lucas uses a lot more than any other mfg in some of their oils, but I prefer oils with low levels. It was also one of quaker states oils claims to fame because the oil from the quaker state fields had more "parafinic" qualities than any other crude.

What viscosity are you looking for and why?

Here's a video from penzoil saying how they actually remove most of the wax fro their crude.

 

 

 

[1969_Mach1 333]

In my 69 Mach1 I'm kind of old school and tend to like 10W-40.  No particular reason.  Before using Lucus oil I was using Valvoline's VR1 Racing oil, 10W-30.  I haven't noticed any difference in the oil pressure gauge.  10W-40 in a daily driver is not the best choice.  The increased additives to obtain a wider viscosity range tend to burn off and evaporate.  So it looks like oil consumption but its not.

[barnett468 418]

1 hour ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

In my 69 Mach1 I'm kind of old school and tend to like 10W-40.  No particular reason.  Before using Lucus oil I was using Valvoline's VR1 Racing oil, 10W-30. 

10W-40 in a daily driver is not the best choice.  The increased additives to obtain a wider viscosity range tend to burn off and evaporate.  So it looks like oil consumption but its not.

1. I like 10w-40 and have used a bazillion gallons of VR-1. 10w-40 is good providing you don't live in phoenix or tucson during the summer.

2. This is incorrect. Multi viscosity in non synthetic oils, which are Group I, II, and, III, is achieved by adding viscosity index improvers. These are made from polymer, and polymer won't "evaporate" to any significant degree, however, they get "sheared" by the moving parts in the engine which reduces the higher number of the viscosity range turning a 10w-40 oil into a 10w-30 oil after time. Group IV and V oils are true synthetics and contain nearly zero wax because the hydrocarbon molecules are too small to retain it sufficiently, but they naturally act like a multi viscosity oil, therefore very little if any viscosity index improvers are added to these two types of oil. The thing that evaporates from the oil is solvents and the lighter oils that are in non synthetic oils. When these evaporate, an oil becomes thicker.

If one wants to learn too much about oil, they should check out the site below.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Just some trvia. Some Nascar guys are using 5w oil for qualifying laps and some use 0w, and at least one team has tested 000w on the dyno but don't ask me what the heck that is.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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