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Cantedvalve

Wire routing and fuse selection

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I am coming up on the end of my wiring work (modifications really).  The final unknowns:

  • How to get the alternator wire to the alternator without having it draped over the engine.  That big of a wire will be noticed.  I currently have it run from the trunk, over the wheel well, and into the passenger rocker channel. My current plan was to drape it over the engine (more elegant than that, but still).  I don't really like that idea, but without a TON more wire, its all I have.
  • How to get the starter wire to the starter without running it under the car.  I have it currently run from the trunk, over the wheel well, and into the passenger rocker channel.  I don't know where I can and cannot drill... I think want to avoid the cowl area (too high anyway), but how do I get from the rocker panel to the front wheel well?
  • How to get power and/or relay wire to the radiator fan.  I don't want wires on the inner fenders or running from the engine to the fan in mid-air.  Should I run two relays... one for main power, and one for temp switching?  I am going to use the accessory post on the fuse box for the "key on" portion of the relay.  I can either extend that all the way to the temp relay with a hot wire, or run another relay with it and switch the hot wire, and basically use it to power the fan and as the signal wire for the temp relay.  I have started wiring with the 2 relay solution, which has the advantage of less "constant hot" wire and fewer wires into the engine bay, but requires another relay (in an accessible place), but it would be easy enough to change direction.
  • Where to mount the alternator end of the "safe zone" fuses.  The "safe zone" is the fused portion of the alternator charging wire.  I will have a fuse at the battery and a fuse nearest I can get to the alternator, but still accessible.  My original idea (and where it is mounted now) was tucked up under the export brace mount on the firewall.  It is black, and so far well hidden.  The reason for this is that these fuse blocks also act as power distribution points.  I needed something accessible (so under the dash wasn't going to work) but also something close enough to the action (stuff that needs power) so that I could hook into it.

So that is where you come in.  I am out of ideas, and I am allergic to "do it the easy now and redo it later."  I have most of the dash disassembled now.  Do you guys have visual depictions of what you have done?

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I think I identified that as an option as well, but in my case I would go down and through the inner fender behind the shock tower since I am also relocating the solenoid to the trunk.

I took some pictures at lunch that I am studying now to see what may and may not work.  I think if I route the cables correctly, it wont look bad.  Since I already have cables coming down the passenger side intake (temp sender and coil + ), I think I can get away with putting the alternator wire in there.

One thing is for sure... I really need to clean the back of the engine bay!

IMG_0293.jpg

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Why not leave the starter solenoid about where it is, and run one wire to the trunk, like done above?  Then the alternator and everything else  connects to the battery side post on the solenoid.  It sounds like you are running the starter wire and the alternator wire to the trunk separately.

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47 minutes ago, danno said:

Why not leave the starter solenoid about where it is, and run one wire to the trunk, like done above?  Then the alternator and everything else  connects to the battery side post on the solenoid.  It sounds like you are running the starter wire and the alternator wire to the trunk separately.

Two reasons, a) I dont like the idea of a live wire running the length of the car without a fuse, and you cant really fuse a starter wire, and 2) it is cleaner to have it someplace else.  Personal preference is probably the best way to describe it.  Either way though, I would have to run the same cable to the front.  If you put the battery AND solenoid in the trunk, you most definitely need to run 2 lines to the front.  The starter line will only be live when the starter is spinning.  The other one needs to be live all the time (with fuses at each end).

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Also bare in mind that the solenoid does not have to be mounted next to the battery, you can mount it anywhere in the front even under the dash panel on the firewall if you want.

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So back onto this topic... what are your guys opinions of the pass-through studs?  Ones like this...

tay-21502_w_ml.jpg.c84647ea4b7f414c8e567dff9735e09b.jpg

You guys think these things are safe?  I am considering one for the starter cable... simply because it allows the cable to lay flatter to the firewall, which is a bit of a concern in the passenger footwell.

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24 minutes ago, Cantedvalve said:

You guys think these things are safe?  I am considering one for the starter cable... simply because it allows the cable to lay flatter to the firewall, which is a bit of a concern in the passenger footwell.

Absolutely. And imo allowing them to sit flush is a bonus. I almost went this route, but I'm a bit lazy. 

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