newstang 388 Report post Posted October 1, 2018 I was looking at all web sites for ideas, and have to give credit to ryan miller from willismjeeps, he seems to have made one that makes sense and is adjustable and can be torn down for storage. having the steel delivered tomorrow and hope mine looks as good as his. Doing this for that damn rusty convertible so i can move it around and lay in the new metal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted October 1, 2018 I have seen this one before ,he restored that 67 on it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 1, 2018 25 minutes ago, Ridge Runner said: I have seen this one before ,he restored that 67 on it he did a hell of a job on it, everything slides and put it where its needed.. just have to ad-lib the sizes of those tubes. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 4, 2018 got the pile-o-steel. This stuff is so heavy! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted October 4, 2018 Yeh problem with this jig is that if you have a wreck or a rusted car. It won’t guarantee proper alignment of critical points unless you measure and index it every time. if you copy this design I would also look at the factory manual for frame points and drill index holes and reference lines so that when you put it together you know you have correct placement of those critical points Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted October 4, 2018 57 minutes ago, newstang said: got the pile-o-steel. This stuff is so heavy! I used 3/16 wall hitch and reciever tube to make my rotisseries ,very heavy but very solid .i drilled and pined all the parts so it goes back together the same every time . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 4, 2018 42 minutes ago, Rsanter said: Yeh problem with this jig is that if you have a wreck or a rusted car. It won’t guarantee proper alignment of critical points unless you measure and index it every time. if you copy this design I would also look at the factory manual for frame points and drill index holes and reference lines so that when you put it together you know you have correct placement of those critical points yep, have those dims too. 1 Cantedvalve reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 5, 2018 I really LOVE my new chop saw, it is nothing like that abrasive blade junk. cuts through steel like it were Balsa wood ( also cuts wood ) the only downside is the chunk shavings it shoots out really hurt! 3 mwye0627, RPM and Cantedvalve reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted October 6, 2018 Nice work. Send it my way when you are done with it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 11, 2018 Next time I decide to re-invent the wheel somebody stop me. This is such a time consumer and slow process. all this cutting, drilling, and welding this extremely overkill steel is wearing me down. luckily this thing will outlive me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted October 11, 2018 On 10/5/2018 at 6:55 AM, newstang said: I really LOVE my new chop saw, it is nothing like that abrasive blade junk. cuts through steel like it were Balsa wood ( also cuts wood ) the only downside is the chunk shavings it shoots out really hurt! If you're in too much pain, I'll trade you a portable bandsaw for it :) Btw, nice work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 11, 2018 I've been where you are, but went a little larger on the tubing (4"x4"x3/16"). I did reference major cross beams in locations to align to major areas (front cross member, front of torque boxes, forward leaf spring mounts and rear cross member). I also incorporated a bolt together and pinned design for future storage, if I ever need it. My rendition is rollable, as the 2-post lift is fantastic for loading and unloading, along with adjustable lock down feet to completely level the table. The rear mounts that bolt to the forward leaf spring areas are fixed and the forward adjustable stands are tack welded to the bottom of the frame rails. If you are going to build several Mustangs on your table, there will always be something else to add. I spent a lot of time on mine, but it has paid dividends on a couple of repairs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 11, 2018 1 minute ago, latoracing said: I've been where you are, but went a little larger on the tubing (4"x4"x3/16"). I did reference major cross beams in locations to align to major areas (front cross member, front of torque boxes, forward leaf spring mounts and rear cross member). I also incorporated a bolt together and pinned design for future storage, if I ever need it. My rendition is rollable, as the 2-post lift is fantastic for loading and unloading, along with adjustable lock down feet to completely level the table. The rear mounts that bolt to the forward leaf spring areas are fixed and the forward adjustable stands are tack welded to the bottom of the frame rails. If you are going to build several Mustangs on your table, there will always be something else to add. I spent a lot of time on mine, but it has paid dividends on a couple of repairs. I should have gone larger tube like the 4x4 and thinner walls. these are so damn heavy I wont want to take it apart to store :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 11, 2018 1 hour ago, RPM said: If you're in too much pain, I'll trade you a portable bandsaw for it :) Btw, nice work. I have a portable band saw, its the least used thing in the shop. It takes forever to cut and cuts crooked. This chop saw is scary how quick it cuts and clean too. Also, doesn't get hot. this is 1/4 steel: IMG_0274.mov Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted October 11, 2018 Nice work. I'm a bit envious of the nice big shop you have to work in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 11, 2018 44 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said: Nice work. I'm a bit envious of the nice big shop you have to work in. Its not just my hobby shop. I manufacture fireplaces for hotels so it has to be big. Its a good thing my wife is the landlord. I can get away with being late on rent :-) 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 12, 2018 I just threw it together for the moment. today ill make the verticles when the steel arrives. It's amazing that at my cost I'm into this for almost a grand! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted October 12, 2018 I get into one of my rotisseries around $600 and there is quite a bit less materials ,i still couldnt buy one for that and i can pick mine up with a fork lift with the car on it ,or load it on a car trailer so i am happy with that Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 12, 2018 22 minutes ago, Ridge Runner said: I get into one of my rotisseries around $600 and there is quite a bit less materials ,i still couldnt buy one for that and i can pick mine up with a fork lift with the car on it ,or load it on a car trailer so i am happy with that problem is the steel company I buy from charges by the pound. I am required to by 24 ft lengths, so I pretty much have enough for two of these. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 12, 2018 2 hours ago, newstang said: ... It's amazing that at my cost I'm into this for almost a grand! Ooouch. I'm fortunate enough to work for a company that buys a BUNCH of steel, which makes a huge difference in price. We also buy by the pound, but when you have 3 to 5 loads a day, everyday, it makes for big cost savings. Its looking good, all nice and painted up too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted October 12, 2018 If you had to use a larger size tube it could cost a bundle ,i am thinking about using 6 inch i beam ,i think i can pick some upfrom the metal building builders near by fairly cheap . I also want to use scaffold jacks with wheels for leveling ,the wheels mount to the bottom of the jack and you just trist the jack up or down untill it sets level,although i will make a spinner nut to lift or lower 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 12, 2018 I deserve this after a day like today. Yabba, dabba, doo ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted October 13, 2018 Ooohh... I'll be right over, and don't burn it! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted October 13, 2018 9 hours ago, RPM said: Ooohh... I'll be right over, and don't burn it! :) it was perfect ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites