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newstang

decided to make a frame jig

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I was looking at all web sites for ideas, and have to give credit to ryan miller from willismjeeps, he seems to have made one that makes sense and is adjustable and can be torn down for storage. 

having the steel delivered tomorrow and hope mine looks as good as his. Doing this for that damn rusty convertible so i can move it around and lay in the new metal.

 

Mustang_Jig_001.sized.jpg

Mustang_Jig_2.sized.jpg

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25 minutes ago, Ridge Runner said:

I have seen this one before ,he restored that 67 on it

he did a hell of a job on it, everything slides and put it where its needed.. just have to ad-lib the sizes of those tubes.

 

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Yeh problem with this jig is that if you have a wreck or a rusted car. It won’t guarantee proper alignment of critical points unless you measure and index it every time.

if you copy this design I would also look at the factory manual for frame points and drill index holes and reference lines so that when you put it together you know you have correct placement of those critical points

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42 minutes ago, Rsanter said:

Yeh problem with this jig is that if you have a wreck or a rusted car. It won’t guarantee proper alignment of critical points unless you measure and index it every time.

if you copy this design I would also look at the factory manual for frame points and drill index holes and reference lines so that when you put it together you know you have correct placement of those critical points

yep, have those dims too. 

70 mustang frame dims.jpeg

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Next time I decide to re-invent the wheel somebody stop me.

This is such a time consumer and slow process. 

all this cutting, drilling, and welding this extremely overkill steel is wearing me down.

IMG_0270.thumb.jpg.e839c58d6366db2490e6b1312f819082.jpgluckily this thing will outlive me.IMG_0271.thumb.jpg.fc9753dc53edd7dcdab1a98165476890.jpg

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On 10/5/2018 at 6:55 AM, newstang said:

I really LOVE my new chop saw, it is nothing like that abrasive blade junk. 

cuts through steel like it were Balsa wood ( also cuts wood ) 

the only downside is the chunk shavings it shoots out really hurt!

If you're in too much pain, I'll trade you a portable bandsaw for it :)

Btw, nice work. 

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I've been where you are, but went a little larger on the tubing (4"x4"x3/16"). I did reference major cross beams in locations to align to major areas (front cross member, front of torque boxes, forward leaf spring mounts and rear cross member). I also incorporated a bolt together and pinned design for future storage, if I ever need it. My rendition is rollable, as the 2-post lift is fantastic for loading and unloading, along with adjustable lock down feet to completely level the table. The rear mounts that bolt to the forward leaf spring areas are fixed and the forward adjustable stands are tack welded to the bottom of the frame rails. 

If you are going to build several Mustangs on your table, there will always be something else to add. I spent a lot of time on mine, but it has paid dividends on a couple of repairs.

KIMG0189_zpsujc870bq.thumb.jpg.e43c30058b67639165cc82d2a3e46c5b.jpg

KIMG0195_zpsvvlkkwzk.thumb.jpg.1967c32829175fbe6e8418e61e5f6481.jpg

KIMG0201_zpsct8pifr7.thumb.jpg.db5da000037fd05b2079c98c195f6c7b.jpg

KIMG0266.thumb.jpg.5234758a4e635de297b46df14b9140be.jpg

 

 

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1 minute ago, latoracing said:

I've been where you are, but went a little larger on the tubing (4"x4"x3/16"). I did reference major cross beams in locations to align to major areas (front cross member, front of torque boxes, forward leaf spring mounts and rear cross member). I also incorporated a bolt together and pinned design for future storage, if I ever need it. My rendition is rollable, as the 2-post lift is fantastic for loading and unloading, along with adjustable lock down feet to completely level the table. The rear mounts that bolt to the forward leaf spring areas are fixed and the forward adjustable stands are tack welded to the bottom of the frame rails. 

If you are going to build several Mustangs on your table, there will always be something else to add. I spent a lot of time on mine, but it has paid dividends on a couple of repairs.

KIMG0189_zpsujc870bq.thumb.jpg.e43c30058b67639165cc82d2a3e46c5b.jpg

KIMG0195_zpsvvlkkwzk.thumb.jpg.1967c32829175fbe6e8418e61e5f6481.jpg

KIMG0201_zpsct8pifr7.thumb.jpg.db5da000037fd05b2079c98c195f6c7b.jpg

KIMG0266.thumb.jpg.5234758a4e635de297b46df14b9140be.jpg

 

 

I should have gone larger tube like the 4x4 and thinner walls. these are so damn heavy I wont want to take it apart to store :-)

 

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1 hour ago, RPM said:

If you're in too much pain, I'll trade you a portable bandsaw for it :)

Btw, nice work. 

I have a portable band saw, its the least used thing in the shop.

It takes forever to cut and cuts crooked. This chop saw is scary how quick it cuts and clean too.

Also, doesn't get hot.  this is 1/4 steel:

 

 

IMG_0272.jpeg

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44 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

Nice work.  I'm a bit envious of the nice big shop you have to work in.

Its not just my hobby shop. I manufacture fireplaces for hotels so it has to be big. 

Its a good thing my wife is the landlord. I can get away with being late on rent :-)

 

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22 minutes ago, Ridge Runner said:

I get into one of my rotisseries around $600 and there is quite a bit less materials ,i still couldnt buy one for that and i can pick mine up with a fork lift with the car on it ,or load it on a car trailer so i am happy with that

problem is the steel company I buy from charges by the pound. I am required to by 24 ft lengths, so I pretty much have enough for two of these.  

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2 hours ago, newstang said:

... It's amazing that at my cost I'm into this for almost a grand!

Ooouch.

I'm fortunate enough to work for a company that buys a BUNCH of steel, which makes a huge difference in price. We also buy by the pound, but when you have 3 to 5 loads a day, everyday, it makes for big cost savings.

Its looking good, all nice and painted up too.  

 

 

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If you had to use a larger size tube it could cost a bundle ,i am thinking about using 6 inch i beam ,i think i can pick some upfrom the metal building builders near by fairly cheap . I also want to use scaffold jacks with wheels for leveling ,the wheels mount to the bottom of the jack and you just trist the jack up or down untill it sets level,although i will make a spinner nut to lift or lower

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