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signorc

Edelbrock intake manifold

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Hello everyone,

looking to upgrade my cast iron intake manifold from my stock 302 SB with the original 2bbl carb.  Seems as though all the Edelbrock aluminum intake manifolds are for a 4bbl carb only. Am I not seeing the one I want or do they not make it? ....sorry if the question is stupid.

I'm not trying to get more horses or jazz it up....just need to replace the head gaskets doe to a small leak so while I'm at it, I wanted to take a little weight off the engine.

I live in Italy and don't want to order sm that I know is not exactly what would fit my engine.

Thanks for all your eventual input and help:)

 

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If you are certain you don't want to switch carbs, you can run any aluminum intake you want with a 2 barrel adapter so your carb works properly. If weight savings is your concern, I bet an aluminum 4 BBL carb is close to the same weight as a factory 2bbl.

That said, the factory Autolite 2100s work great and I understand if you want to keep it. I would suggest the mosy mild aluminum intake you can find, like an Edelbrock performer (not performer RPM) or an old offenhauser if you can find one.

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On 9/14/2018 at 5:54 PM, lanky said:

If you are certain you don't want to switch carbs, you can run any aluminum intake you want with a 2 barrel adapter so your carb works properly. If weight savings is your concern, I bet an aluminum 4 BBL carb is close to the same weight as a factory 2bbl.

That said, the factory Autolite 2100s work great and I understand if you want to keep it. I would suggest the mosy mild aluminum intake you can find, like an Edelbrock performer (not performer RPM) or an old offenhauser if you can find one.

I'd like to make sure that installing the Performer 2121 with the Mr Gasket Carb Adj kit, it won't hit the hood once its closed with the air cleaner on.

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On 3/7/2020 at 2:24 PM, signorc said:

I'd like to make sure that installing the Performer 2121 with the Mr Gasket Carb Adj kit, it won't hit the hood once its closed with the air cleaner on.

It says its 1" thick. Mock it up with some wood spacers under the air cleaner lid, then loosely wad-up some aluminium foil  and close the hood to check the gap.

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thanks Mach1 Driver!

I just replaced my head gaskets & intake manifold gaskets on the 69 Mustang.  should I start the engine without any antifreeze in the vehicle till the block gets hot?   I'm asking cause this is what I do when I replace my classic Mini's head gasket.

all the best from lock down Italy :(  at least I'm getting lots of work done on my cars being I can't leave my house

 

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20 minutes ago, signorc said:

thanks Mach1 Driver!

I just replaced my head gaskets & intake manifold gaskets on the 69 Mustang.  should I start the engine without any antifreeze in the vehicle till the block gets hot?   I'm asking cause this is what I do when I replace my classic Mini's head gasket.

all the best from lock down Italy :(  at least I'm getting lots of work done on my cars being I can't leave my house

 

lol, you're pretty funny.

You definitely want water in it, and there is no break in required on the gaskets you installed, but after this type of work, i start them with straight water in case there is a hose leak etc, just to reduce the mess it will make. Also, if you use a thermostat, you should check the coolant level after it has been running for around 3 minutes, because these systems sometimes get a big air pocket in them which prevents the full amount of coolant from being added until the thermostat opens some, but turn the engine off and use a "lever" type cap so you can safely let any pressure out that has built up before removing the cap. check the coolant level again after maybe 10 minutes, then after that it should stay at the same level.

Also, leave around 12 - 15 mm of air space between where the rad cap seales down inside the filler neck and the water level. This allows for some expansion without spewing water out the overflow.

 

 

, but

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