Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted September 13, 2018 It’s been a day of highs and lows. First the low... I lost my buss bar that I bought from Midlife. I think one of the kids ate it. I spent some time with the wiring on the car today, trying to figure out where I need relays and where I need to rewire. I traced that silly pink resistor ignition wire back to the fuse box, and found that coming from the same terminal was a green/red wire. I followed this through the harness to find... it’s been cut off! I know I did it... but I don’t remember why. I think it had something to do with the voltage regulator (I’m on a 1 wire alternator now). I checked the wiring diagram I have and I think it’s the S terminal on the voltage regulator. Odd thing is, I think it also plugs into the gauge harness. Why I don’t know. I do have the pin for that wire in my “crap do I need this” pile, but I’m unsure why I removed it. Do I need this thing hooked up to the gauge cluster? What purpose does it serve there? Can anyone help me remember? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted September 13, 2018 Yes, that one half of the alternator plug, and what I call the VR stimulater. With a one wire alternator, you do not need it for the VR. For the dash cluster, you do need that wire, as it is used for two purposes: an alternator indicator lamp (if you have a tach dash) and the voltage power wire for the brake distribution block indicator lamp. I think your picture is showing the engine side of the firewall grommet's wiring and not the wiring from the dash cluster connector. You should have sent me all of this crap and let me sort it out and save you numerous headaches... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted September 13, 2018 Yeah it comes straight off the fuse block and ends right where I have it. I was able to trace it to the brake switch as well, which is probably why I didn’t bother with it... my brake switch isn’t hooked up as I have an aftermarket distribution and prop valve. My wiring is in pretty good shape except for the stuff I’ve done to it. Now that I know what it is, I will use it for my coil positive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted September 13, 2018 I need to recheck my gauge cluster wiring. Make sure I haven’t left anything else out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted September 13, 2018 9 hours ago, Cantedvalve said: Yeah it comes straight off the fuse block and ends right where I have it. I was able to trace it to the brake switch as well, which is probably why I didn’t bother with it... my brake switch isn’t hooked up as I have an aftermarket distribution and prop valve. My wiring is in pretty good shape except for the stuff I’ve done to it. Now that I know what it is, I will use it for my coil positive. Yes, a green/red wire is used as RUN-only lines and power to the brake switch. This is the switch that turns on the rear brake lights (located at the brake pedal) and has nothing to do with aftermarket distribution and proportioning valves. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted September 13, 2018 Are you sure? Best I can tell it's for the dash warning light for that switch on the distribution block. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted September 13, 2018 If your brake lights work, then you're "good". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted September 13, 2018 Okay. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
