ralt962 11 Report post Posted August 12, 2018 Looking for any tips on installing the oil pan in the car. 69 351W. I had to remove the pan to install a new pickup. First attempt failed. No drips on the sides, just at the rear. I believe the main seal is good. I had run the car at 2K rpm but unknowingly with low oil pressure (10-20). No leaks anywhere at that time. Fixed that issue, now 40-50. But using the Ford racing one piece gasket, I must have failed mostly on the rear end. I know the front main seal is good. Rear seal didnt leak with the low oil pressure. After reinstalling the pan I get lots of leaking at the rear. Possibly a little at the front. I cant tell if I'm getting oil at the pan seal or the main seal. Just looking for tips and wisdom so I don't repeat. I have the pan off again cleaning up the surfaces. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 90 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 Did you apply a sealant in the corners, between pan and gasket and gasket and block? Just a small bit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ralt962 11 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 Yes, Used Ultra Black. But others recommend the old brown stuff, Permatex 2B. Found a small defect in the pan at the edge of the rear seal surface. Not sure if that is the issue. Sealant should have taken care of that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 i don't use the 1 piece gaskets, however, i would clean the gasket with lacquer thinner or acetone then alcohol. i would also use the same on the block and i use q tips to get into the small recesses in the corners where part of the factory oil seal installs into next to the main caps. i only use gray high temp silicone on both sides of the pan gaskets to seal the corners and the curved area on the main caps then let it dry for at least 12 hours but on your one piece i would use it on both sides of the entire gasket. ultra black is not nearly as good as the gray for this app. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,241 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 I've got a Ford and Felpro 1 piece gasket sitting on a shelf due to their high ability to really suck, imo. I didn't give them a chance to try adding rtv in the corners. I now only use RTV. Nice even beads, use plenty at the corners and over the end caps. Don't use so much that it enters the crank case. Not one leak, and my first application came off just fine when I removed the crank. No more gaskets for this city boy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 I've got a Moroso 1-piece gasket. They have two types, one for smooth rail pans and one for dimpled rail pans. So you must get the correct one! I also used the gray silicone, and for ease of installation, I have studs. https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/brand/moroso/department/gaskets-seals/make/ford/engine-size/5-8l-351/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor?N=400105%2B4294949549&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&retaillocation=int Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 334 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 Like fvike mentioned there are one piece gaskets for the older pain with ribs on the gasket rails and for the newer pans with smooth gasket rails. Make certain you have the correct gasket. I've had good luck with Fel-Pro's Perma Dry Plus one piece gaskets. But it still takes a fairly heavy film of silicone on both sides of the gasket around the rear main cap and timing cover, and a dab of it in the corners. I leave the gasket on the side rails dry. Also, the Fel-Pro Perma Dry Plus oil pan gaskets come with four plastic retainer studs that thread into the oil pan bolt holes and hold the gasket in place. Push the oil pan up and they also hold the oil pan in place. Get a few bolts starts then simply unscrew the plastic retainers. They help a lot. 1 mwye0627 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ralt962 11 Report post Posted August 14, 2018 10 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said: Like fvike mentioned there are one piece gaskets for the older pain with ribs on the gasket rails and for the newer pans with smooth gasket rails. Make certain you have the correct gasket. I've had good luck with Fel-Pro's Perma Dry Plus one piece gaskets. But it still takes a fairly heavy film of silicone on both sides of the gasket around the rear main cap and timing cover, and a dab of it in the corners. I leave the gasket on the side rails dry. Also, the Fel-Pro Perma Dry Plus oil pan gaskets come with four plastic retainer studs that thread into the oil pan bolt holes and hold the gasket in place. Push the oil pan up and they also hold the oil pan in place. Get a few bolts starts then simply unscrew the plastic retainers. They help a lot. I just installed the Felpro unit. It actually wedged into the crank seals and stayed there. I went very old school and used Permatex #2. As suggested I put a good amount in the corners after cleaning with first brake cleaner then alcohol. The plastic retainers are great add. I'm saving those. Appreciate all the suggestions. I'll let you know how this comes out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites