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paulb

Ford racing vs Ron Francis

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Hi all, have tried a search but didn’t come up with what I wanted, which would be a better wiring set up ? The ford racing or Ron Francis for a 2017 coyote and manual trans into a 69 Mustang? Pros and cons as I haven’t used either 

I am in Australia, so if there are others that may suit I’d also like to hear about them

thanks Paul

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My current project is still under construction ( '53 Studebaker with a 2013 coyote) so I can't comment on the installation of their complete wiring kit for a fuel injected engine into a classic car. I have used their wiring kits on at least 5 other cars that I have built (all carbureted) with the last being my '70 fastback. I can say the wire quality and the ease of installation is tops. The one item that I think is significant with the Ron Francis kit for the coyote is that you can order the wiring looms extra length so you can put the pcm and fuse panel where you want them. I put mine under the back seat in my current project. On my '70 FB I used their 24/7 fuse panel and mounted it on the passenger side kick panel high enough so you could not see it. It is attached with a strong magnet and a long enough lead of wire that if you need to check a fuse you  just reach up and pull it down and at that point you can easily see every fuse and change it when you are in a comfortable position. Nothing like trying to get to the stock fuse panel behind the clutch pedal. If you use the Ford racing package you are limited to where you can put the pcm unless you wish to cut and extend every wire in the loom. To obtain my motor I purchased a wrecked 2013 Mustang GT so I was able to get the complete motor, drive by wire pedal assembly, pcm,  water and oil senders, both oxy. sensors, mass airflow sensor, alternator, and starter. If you purchase a crate motor then these are additional item that you would have to purchase. With the Ford racing package you get an air cleaner that I doubt that you could use on the mustang. In regards to the pcm, I simply sent the one from my 2013 GT to Ron Francis and they reprogram it with the same program that you would get with the Ford Racing pcm. I believe that for me it was cheaper to obtain a wrecked GT for its parts than to purchase the required items new. I am also able to use the 6 way power seats and the Ron Francis kit will now support the 6 speed auto trans if that is the way you want to go. I don't believe using the GT's 6 speed manual trans is an option because of the shifter position is so far back but I could be wrong. I hope this give some insight as to your purchase. By the way my '70 Mustang was recently sold to one of your mates down under so it might show up at one of you meets down there. Its the one pictured above.

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I use Ron Francis for all my projects, Scott is great and will walk you through any questions. Also, when you find you have a different connector (which ford does all the time) you would call Scott and he'd send hat you need. Ford harnesses are what they are for stock with no expansion possibility.

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Just to let you know, if you order their complete wiring kit for the coyote and a complete kit for the fuse panel (includes all the wiring and plugs) it comes in a box with a shipping weight of about 55 pounds.  No way around the issue of making anybodys'  wiring any lighter but I was a little surprised at the total weight.

Are you going to install AC and any thoughts on using the variable displacement AC pump that the coyote comes with or will you replace it with another conventional unit?

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Your older compressors/ac systems regulate the temp. by you turning a temperature switch and the compressor will cycle (the clutch) on and off to maintain the temperature. All coyotes as well as a lot of other cars now have variable displacement compressors. Internally they are capable of changing the stroke of the pistons and instead of cycling the clutch on and off, the compressor will vary the pressure (by changing the piston's stroke). Once you turn the AC system on the clutch engages and stays engaged until you physically turn the system off. Vintage air has their reasons for not using this type of compressor and recommend you use a conventional compressor that they supply.You can read up about it on their web site, they basically don't like the temperature of the system to be possibly controlled with two different types of controls, changing the displacement and cycling the clutch on and off.   Newstang, I am glad your system is working . I have talked with several people doing just as you are and they have not experienced any problems. I am planning on doing the same.

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6 hours ago, Cruzzar said:

Your older compressors/ac systems regulate the temp. by you turning a temperature switch and the compressor will cycle (the clutch) on and off to maintain the temperature. All coyotes as well as a lot of other cars now have variable displacement compressors. Internally they are capable of changing the stroke of the pistons and instead of cycling the clutch on and off, the compressor will vary the pressure (by changing the piston's stroke). Once you turn the AC system on the clutch engages and stays engaged until you physically turn the system off. Vintage air has their reasons for not using this type of compressor and recommend you use a conventional compressor that they supply.You can read up about it on their web site, they basically don't like the temperature of the system to be possibly controlled with two different types of controls, changing the displacement and cycling the clutch on and off.   Newstang, I am glad your system is working . I have talked with several people doing just as you are and they have not experienced any problems. I am planning on doing the same.

Thanks for the info, I think my vw has a similar system, they don't even use a clutch. In my case, I say it works because after connected it was blowing cold. Keep in mind my car is still on the lift and has never been driven. I'm not sure how it will work under load.

 

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In the case of the coyote it has an mechanical internal pressure switch, other cars use an electrical switch  that requires an wire connection to the compressor besides the one for the magnetic clutch.

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