Lost Spark

[albarnett_99 13]

I got some time today to test my grounds with a multimeter.  I found that the reading on the chasis (block to chasis ground cable) had a reading of 0.6 ohms.  I decided to relocate to another part of the block and cleanup the terminating point at the chasis. 

New readings are at 0.1 ohms. All others are reading 0. 

I decided to order some heatshield so I can wrap the coil and protect it from some heat. Not sure if this will help, but it’s worth a try.   Will keep everyone posted. 

[gordonr 4]

As I was explaining and it is hard to understand. Using an ohm meter to test chassis wiring circuits will not get you the answer you need. Look up "voltage drop tests" .  In other words its like checking oil pressure  when  an engine is shut off and your taking a syringe full of oil in substitution for an oil pump. 

[albarnett_99 13]

gordonr - sounds like I am missing something or don’t clearly understand what you have been trying to convey.  Is there a test I have missed that will shed more light on the root cause of my loss of power and spark?  Electrical is not my thing, but I am certainly willing to research and learn more. 

[1969_Mach1 333]

I'd definitely try to follow the suggestions from gordonr.  I will add, I've seen a lot of iginition modules or pick-ups fail intermittently from heat.  For ignition modules, more often when they are mounted on or inside the distributor.  Just saying, I wouldn't rule out those items.

If you're concerned with heat to the ignition coil, move it to an inner fender panel and make up a longer coil wire.  Kind of an old school way of installing ignition coils.  I've seen ignition coils fail.  But not nearly as many as ignition modules.

[albarnett_99 13]

Not sure what can be done to protect the ignition module from heat.  Moving the coil to the inner fender panel is another option. 

gordonr seems to have a ton of knowledge related to electrical gremlins. I certainly don’t!  Hope he checks back and can shed more light for those of us who aren’t electrical experts!

[albarnett_99 13]

Performed a voltage drop test on all grounds today and all had the same readings of 0.19v while cranking the engine.  From what I have read, anything below 0.5v is good. 

[gordonr 4]

Now your getting somewhere. That reading is good but moving  your ground for the module to the battery you said corrected your no spark issue.  If that is the case testing for a voltage drop at the same point where the module ground ring terminal  was mounted should show an issue or it was dirty, corroded and or loose causing the issue? 

[gordonr 4]

What model meter do you have?

[1969_Mach1 333]

10 hours ago, albarnett_99 said:

Not sure what can be done to protect the ignition module from heat.  Moving the coil to the inner fender panel is another option. 

gordonr seems to have a ton of knowledge related to electrical gremlins. I certainly don’t!  Hope he checks back and can shed more light for those of us who aren’t electrical experts!

Not much you can do to protect an ignition module from heat if it's mounted inside or on the distributor.  It's an unfortunate drawback of that type of setup.  In the mid 1990's Ford moved ignition modules from the distributor to the inner fender panel and attached them to large aluminum heat sinks to help cooling.  I would still follow gordonr's testing to be certain the wiring is all okay.