Heater Hose Routing

[Vicfreg 772]

Getting my engine dressed up for my install.   I am struggling with the way to route my heater hoses.   I also need to find a way to make a 90 degree bend coming off of the water pump lower connection to get around my serpentine belt alternator location.   I have nearly everything else routed in my fenderwells, so not looking to add any more stuff there....   I've seem some Boss 302 factory metal tubes that mount to the intake that look pretty cool, thinking about those.  

Any pictures, suggestions, lessons learned would be appreciated.  I am running a 351 Windsor based stroker with Vintage Air

 

[barnett468 418]

you can also buy heater hose with a 90 degree bend. some of the 69/70 factory heater hoses have an S bend that goes behind the engine to the heater core.

 

[MAC390 327]

Can you use the 90 degree fitting that goes on the big block cars, here's a pic of mine.

[JET 445 43]

I made clamps and mounted the hose using the intake manifold bolts, of course mine is right hand drive but you get the idea.

[bryonbush 85]

Look into the foxbody heater hose tubes. They are solid across the engine top and also have a bung for a temp sensor which will also help since your running efi. In my opinion it gives a cleaner look that the big rubber hoses. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9424BA/Mustang-Heater-Tube-Assembly-w-o-Coolant-Tube-86-93-50-58

[Vicfreg 772]

 Thanks, I really like those. How does the temperature sensor work, if the heat is not on    My vintage air heater control valve will only open when there’s a demand for heat

[Vicfreg 772]

 Thanks for all the ideas guys.   I will have to find one of those 90 degree  fittings, or bent hoses. I have to take a real close look to make sure I can sneak the hose through there   

[bryonbush 85]

13 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

 Thanks, I really like those. How does the temperature sensor work, if the heat is not on    My vintage air heater control valve will only open when there’s a demand for heat

if you look at the 6th photo in the link to LMR I posted, it shows where the temp gauge is. So depending on where your control valve is, I would think (key work there) that the coolant would be always in there. When I added my temp sensor I put it right where the bypass was since I don't have a heater core. but if I add heat ill need another place. another option would be to buy the same kit only without the added bung. then just drill and tap into the threaded area that goes into the intake. seen that done a few times but then your sensor sits pretty high. 

[barnett468 418]

if the heater has a shut off valve, the temp gauge will not read correctly when the valve is closed. it will read lower than the actual temp.

[moodster 55]

On my small block, I've tried all of the above to get the heater hose routing to look nice and clean - fox body tubes, 90 degree fitting, etc.  It all can work and look nice but if your fuel comes into the carb on that side then I would not do it.  The original Ford carbs get fuel on the front but most aftermarkets are on the passenger side so the heater hoses will be close to the fuel line unless you have a really tall spacer.  The heater hoses put a lot of heat underneath the carb and if your fuel lines are close then you can suffer from percolation.  

david