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Hurst Comp+ Linkage Adjustment

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Looking for a little guidance from someone who has likely experienced this same issue with their shifter install. I've researched a lot of the old threads on different forums and have yet to come up with a complete answer. Installing a Hurst Comp+ shifter on a 69 big block car and have verified that I have the correct installation kit, shift rods, tailshaft, tranny mount, etc. I believe I have it aligned pretty well and can remove/insert the ¼” guide pin fairly easily. I need to push up on the soft metal cover just past the levers to get it all the way through, but it does seem to shift pretty well. I rebuilt the tranny with Mark Hammons kit back in the day and carefully followed his instructions on the CD to install the shifter.

My concern is that I seem to get slight interference with the ½ shift rod and the reverse rod. When in first the 1/2 rod makes slight contact with the reverse rod just behind the trunnion. Enough so that you can’t even slide a piece of paper between the levers. (PIC 3) When in reverse the rod end just barely makes contact with the ½ shift lever. Enough so that it pushes on the ½ shift lever and forces it back a 1/4 to half inch. (PIC 4) I've read in other threads that people simply trim down the reverse rod end which would take care of that issue, but want to make sure that's the correct fix before I start cutting. 

It almost seems like the reverse rod button should be flipped to the inside of the shift lever which would fix both issues, but goes against the instructions and doesn't seem to be an option. Has anyone else experienced this? I've completely removed it and re-installed it twice with the same results. Only thing I can think of is that either the shift rods are bent slightly wrong or I need to play with the trunnion position while in neutral before installing the rods. I have not adjusted the stops as many have said that on toploaders they are not particularly necessary, but even that would not help the interference when shifting in to revers.

Thanks in advance for any help.

TL1.jpg

TL2.jpg

TL3.jpg

TL4.jpg

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Have you tried swapping the levers on the trans (2723 & 2725?)? It looks like swapping them would provide the clearance. Also seems the shifter should angle forward and the bottom levers to the rear but I haven't looked at mine in a while.

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5 hours ago, Brian Conway said:

Email a picture of your rod/trunion/shifter assembly to Hurst-Shifter.com and ask for an opinion ?  Looks like the reverse assembly, at the trans, is the problem ?  Brian

Thanks, Brian. Hadn't thought of reaching out to Hurst so appreciate the idea. Does seem if that reverse leg kicked out more it would solve both issues. No damage to the box it came in and doesn't appear to be bent. Thanks again!

4 hours ago, RogerC said:

Have you tried swapping the levers on the trans (2723 & 2725?)? It looks like swapping them would provide the clearance. Also seems the shifter should angle forward and the bottom levers to the rear but I haven't looked at mine in a while.

Roger - Great idea. I'll double-check the install manual and see if I have the 1/2 and Reverse trunnion swapped. Thanks!

3 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

I would say the inside leaver has the the rod on the wrong side of the leaver ,it seams like mine had one on the oposite side from the other two

Thanks, Ridge. I tried that and it seems like it is putting stress on the arm and might bind. I double-checked in the install instructions from Hurst and Mark at TL Heaven and all three rod buttons come in from the outside. Attached is a pic from Mark's CD showing a big block setup with a Hurst Comp+ shifter. Appreciate the help.

Mvc-007s.jpg

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4 hours ago, RogerC said:

Have you tried swapping the levers on the trans (2723 & 2725?)? It looks like swapping them would provide the clearance. Also seems the shifter should angle forward and the bottom levers to the rear but I haven't looked at mine in a while.

Roger - Looks like I do have the shift trunions installed correctly. Wish I had installed this when Mark was still in business. Thanks again!

MVC-001S.JPG

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Here's how I fixed this issue without cutting/bending rods. I took out the provided nylon washer on part#15 in above diagram. Then I cut an aluminum can into a circle and drilled a hole, filed it smooth and used that. Redneck fix maybe...but hey it works. Hopefully that would provide you enough clearance like it did me.

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