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I am thinking I might need to do something with my engine crossmember attachment .  Before I start thinking heli-coil it would be good to know what's inside the frame rail.  A 1/2" x 13 x 1" long bolt attaches the crossmember to the forward frame rail.  One bolt each side of the car.  What does that bolt screw into ?  The frame rail opening is not threaded so a plate, a welded nut, or something is up in there ?  How tall is that something ?  Just a couple things I things need to know before proceeding.  Some of you guys have replaced the frame rail and some other have had stripped bolt holes.  Solutions ?  Thanks,  Brian

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wow, i have never seen them missing or drilled out and i have looked at several thousand cars.

 

you might send a pm to sean d and ask him to send you a photo of his because he has his cross bar off right now. i can't see any threads in the photo ridge runner posted which doesn't look like the correct hole anyway because there is another  frame rail attached to it.

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ahhh, much better photo ridge runner, thanks.

 

if yours is still in there byt the threads are simply stripped out, you could try a heli coil, however, a time sert can hold more torque and they make long ones. it does not need to be and longer than the length of the stripped out one but if it is longer it won't hurt anything.

these are 7/16 x 14 x 1" long

https://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_59904/time-sert_716-14_replacement_inserts_121888_packag.html

TIME_SERT_11155_DenLors_Tools.jpg

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Just not sure how much area there would be to open up the old nut for the insert ,i have never cut into this part of the frame ,you may have to drill out to much to re thread thread for an insert . If you could drill out the nut so the insert would slip in and weld around the insert ,it looks like it has a slight lip ,but that may be a pain in the butt also

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14 minutes ago, Ridge Runner said:

Just not sure how much area there would be to open up the old nut for the insert ,i have never cut into this part of the frame ,you may have to drill out to much to re thread thread for an insert . If you could drill out the nut so the insert would slip in and weld around the insert ,it looks like it has a slight lip ,but that may be a pain in the butt also

yeah, good point.

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Picture of the over lapping metal.  Great pictures thanks.  Not sure how the nut fits in between the over lapping pieces of metal but its a start ?  Also not familiar with ' time-serts ' same as heli-coil ?  Was at a friends yesterday looking at a 1/2" heli-coil set he has.  Just checking it out to see what's involved.  So about 1/2" +/- tall will work and I have to get a bit more serious about the specs.  For now the bolt was thread locked, installed, tightened up and marked with a white line.  Didn't feel real good when tightening and would spin if I really leaned on it.  Any repair work will be done without welding and the heli-coil was my first thought.  Chase the threads and try to clean it up and maybe try a longer standard bolt ?  Picture of the area and the overlapping metal pieces.  Brian

Cross Member Nut 4.JPG

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I just repaired mine when I installed one of Z-rays crossmembers.  I used a Helicoil and it worked out great.

I will have to say I have installed lots of Helicoils over my 47 year career and always having apprentices to test my ability to repair stripped broken bolts.

For starters the drill size for the 1/2x13 Helicoil is 17/32 same as the Shelby drop.  I took my time and lubed and kept backing tap up to clear chips.  I was trying to exert the least amount of torque so as not have the "nut" spin.  Worked out perfectly and when done it torqued to 55 ft lbs no problem.

 

The time serts are a little thicker and I'd be concerned they would take more of the nut and may weaken it.  Just to  add I got 2 new AMK bolts and used red loctite on the helicoil and never seize on the new bolts

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I replaced one of my frame rails. It came in two pieces and I didn't notice the anchor nut for the cross member was missing until all welded in. I ended up cutting a small slot across the hole, slipping the nut in sideways and letting it sit flat across the slot. Once in place I welded it and filled the slot with weld. A bit of grinding and it looks original.

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