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69 Vert project

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8 hours ago, stangs-R-me said:

Front Bumper corner brackets:

When I got my car back from paint in 1982, I first re-mounted the old & bent up bumper that came with the car so these brackets did not line up at all with my brand new valance.   When I finally got new bumpers, I got all new and correct hardware for these brackets and then painted the brackets black.   With the new bumper in place, they still were off as far as lining up with the holes so instead of spending a bunch of time bending them to fit then re-painting them, I just left them off.   

Shortly after, I rear-ended a Nova (low speed) and flattened the nose of my new bumper and the upper valance behind it.   The ends of the bumper also popped away from the sides of the car and if these two brackets had been in place they would have likely ripped though my brand new lower valance which I would have also have had to fix or replace and re-paint.   Instead I just needed to straighten and re-paint the upper valance that goes between the headlight buckets and replace the bumper.   May have needed to replace or repair / re-paint the lower trim panel and edge trim, but don't remember exactly.   Not having to touch the lower valance saved me a bunch of $$.

I bought a NEW set of these corner brackets about 10 years ago thinking I would finally try and install them but they needed tweaking too to fit so I again gave up.  

Quite honestly, I think the bumper has plenty of support from the inner and outer brackets that I doubt there is ever any "movement" way out on the ends.

Doug

That is a great point, even a minor tap on the bumper will defiantly crumble the fender. I see no significant movement with those off. In fact this is my third stang and none of them have those brackets on there.

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3 hours ago, bryonbush said:

I see you went with the same LED taillights as me. just a heads up, the reflector that's in the middle of the lights will start popping off. they are held in place by crappy double sided tape. I went in and removed the tape, then super glued them down. for how much they are, you would think that the tape of securement of the reflectors would be better.

These have no tape on them at all. They are a solid PC board.

http://www.vintageleds.com/

 

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So, regressing back to the bumper bracket topic..  

The 1964 Mustang was the first Ford production car to not use a bumper jack.  The styling of the bumpers, and the small trunk dictated a more compact solution, which resulted in the infamous "scissor jack" that we all know and love.   So, the bumpers, formerly a "jacking point" became a non-structural part of the Mustang.   Look at a 1964 Falcon....the front bumper is huge, and it has a bumper jack.    The 1964 front bumper styling carried on till1970.

So, not really sure if the Mustang front bumper end attachment brackets were an attempt to make the bumper "stronger" in case someone took a bumper jack to it, or it was just to keep the bumper "straight".   I think the latter, as I have tried to install these without the end bracket, and I can never can get them "plumb".

 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, bryonbush said:

ah I see now. did you just order the flush housing then?

yes, oh i see, they must also sell complete set. 

i have been using these and mustang project leds, but US made and excellent quality.

 

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2 hours ago, newstang said:

look at this, door switches, original on left, scott drake on right. 

no wonder the lights didnt work with the drake part

 

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I had bought the Scott Drake repro "Autolite" switches too and they went right back.   On one of them the plunger would stick and then the OD of switch flange was smaller than original so that was the final straw for me.   Something was goofy with the connector too, but don't remember it being that bad !!

Doug  

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9 hours ago, bryonbush said:

Can you go into detail on the speakers you used. Also, what radio head are you using? 

Had to make adapter plates to fit it, I didn't measure at the time so these are 6.5" ( 8" would fit without adapter.)

The radio is a din radio called Parrot. It is a European model that is no longer made. I wanted a simple one knob, no disco lights jun like they all make now.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43780_Parrot-Asteroid-Classic.html

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VVMHA90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

 

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On 9/28/2019 at 8:03 AM, mustangstofear said:

Excellent  place for the  speakers.  I noticed  you installed the  fuse box in the same location as  we do. Since  AAW has changed their  harness,  it doesn't  reach. They are  telling us  it has to go  back in the factory  location :(

I usually mount the fuse block in the glove box, but this one i really didnt care to do the extra work so put in in the spine breaking location :-)

 

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I mounted my speakers in the same location, I actually modified the air vent boxes themselves. There’s a detailed post somewhere I think on the how to or technical forum about how I did this.

I can post pictures and the details on my speakers in a day or so

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On 9/29/2019 at 11:40 AM, Vicfreg said:

I mounted my speakers in the same location, I actually modified the air vent boxes themselves. There’s a detailed post somewhere I think on the how to or technical forum about how I did this.

I can post pictures and the details on my speakers in a day or so

lets see them. 

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Ok, here is my kick panel speaker install.  I found a spare set of air vents in Carlisle that were beat up, and I used them to make speaker boxes.   I don't need the air vents, as I have a factory A/C car.   If you have a '69, this mod will not work as well, as you will not have the flow through ventilation system the '70's have.  (whole different topic I can cover later)

I got some new Pyle KIcker Speakers that are "thin", and fit the airboxes.   I locked the air vent closed, and anchored it with a screw, and then Dynamat on the inside and outside sufaces of the airbox.  Then, I installed boom mat speaker enclosure on the inside as well.  I made some birch plywood templates to use to mount the speakers to, and these attach to the sheet metal of the car.  I also had to trim the existing kick panel plastic panels to remove the louvers, that was a pain. Carefully did it with an couple X-acto knives.   Then had to find some speaker grills to cover the hole, bought a few sets on Ebay and found some I liked.   I re-installed the vent handle and zip-tied it in place, to make it look somewhat functional....

I am using a DIN-1 Boss Head Unit with a 500 Watt Rockford Fosgate power amp and Pioneer Subwoofer, and Pyle Speakers Mounted in my rear seat trim panels where the Convertible Ashtray's used to be.   That is work in progress, will send pics along when done.

Hope this helps.  Sorry to hijack the post...

 

 

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So I learned something new today.

Did you know that the tack strip and bolts from a cougar are NOT the same for a mustang?

Did you also know that the bolts for the tack strip from a cougar are longer and go through the quarter panel?

I do !

 

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