Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Its pretty dumb of me to start on this one while the Coyote Mach isn't finished yet, but i got tired of leaving it outside on my trailer. Plus I needed the fender for the Mach.

So, going through this, its a typical New England Rustang. A bit of Bondo and its al set :-)

Although its everything I stand against, to save a fortune, I may just restore this to KINDA stock. So far i'm into the Mach for 38k. So this one will be on the less expensive.

This is my first convertible, so any advice on what should be done first and where to support the car to keep it from drooping is appreciated. 

IMG_2549.jpg

IMG_2547.jpg

IMG_2551.jpg

IMG_2550.jpg

IMG_2555.jpg

IMG_2554.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey NewStang.  If you check my build thread (1970 convertible) you should be able to see all the mods I did to my 1970 convertible.

Some of the pics may have been messed up from an earlier software snafu on the site.  If so, let me know, I can send you all the pics.

My resident expert and fabrication wizard is Mike, who is on this forum as Latoracing.    He did the magic on mine.  

I am doing all the wrench turning, electronics, etc.

Good luck!

Great to see another convertible on here...

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, newstang said:

This is my first convertible, so any advice on what should be done first and where to support the car to keep it from drooping is appreciated. 

 

Just about all old convertibles start to sag in the middle and judging by the door alignment in your pic, yours is no exception. Pay attention to that when you start welding in the new metal so you get a nice straight body when you're done. Also, don't throw away anything, no matter how roached. Verts have some unique parts that aren't reproduced and you'll go nuts trying to find replacements (ask me how I know). Other than that, it's a Mustang. Looking forward to your build!

Oh, and BTW, I bought my Mustang in Norwalk back when I lived in Connecticut.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys! 

the strange thing is the inner and outer are intact ( replaced at one point) so im not sure why it would sag at the doors. I can only assume it is rear frame rails and the lack of wheel wells.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW, as most of you know I cant leave well enough alone.

I cant stand the quarters and those "vents" so i am definitely going with mach1 full quarters with scoops on this one.

cant remember where i found this pic, but this is what I want. 

the quarter extensions should be same as fastback, but not sure what trunk lid was used, modified?

 

69-convertible.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can not stress enough how i love for my forklift. 

Pulled out engine and tranny in minutes after everything was unbolted and cut.

now I can see, that this will need the usual everything.

 

IMG_2558.jpg

IMG_2560.jpg

IMG_2559.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Newstang.  I did some serious looking into using Mach 1 fender extensions and trunk lid on my '70 Vert.   The contours and shape are totally different.  I even found a Chip Foose "Overhaulin" episode where they did this.   A lot of fab work.   I then considered using the '69/'70 Shelby fiberglass extensions and trunk lid. But, that was not the same as the Mach 1 look.  I like the look of the back end on the car in the picture you posted.   I hope you can get it done.  For me, I moved on and will keep the stock look.  This was further complicated for my '70, as the '70s have 2 different rear fenders and end caps, depending on when they were built.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, are you sure you want to do this?, that thing is heavily rusted and you will just find more every time you look at it. Convertibles are much cheaper to buy than fastbacks and you could buy a nice car for way less than this will cost and also save hundreds of hours of your time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

 This was further complicated for my '70, as the '70s have 2 different rear fenders and end caps, depending on when they were built.

 

What are the 2 different quarter panels and extensions for 70 vert? As far as I know, 70 vert quarter is like 69 coupe/vert quarter without the dummy vent on the front, and extension is like 69 coupe/vert with body line matching the line above side marker.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, JET 445 said:

Wow, are you sure you want to do this?, that thing is heavily rusted and you will just find more every time you look at it. Convertibles are much cheaper to buy than fastbacks and you could buy a nice car for way less than this will cost and also save hundreds of hours of your time.

I agree, and the problem is not so much the rust, ive done full metal on the other mustang, the main thing is the fact that this will sag in the center and have no real way of staging it. even if i built up a jig, i dont see how i would be able to restore floor, frame, and all else.

The other problem is there is no such thing as a good mustang in the NE. honestly im not sure that a convertible anywhere is without rust.  So, ill plug away at it until i realize its time to cut it up. My friend has a bunch of metal from a cougar, ill give it a valiant effort for the moment.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Newstang.  I did some serious looking into using Mach 1 fender extensions and trunk lid on my '70 Vert.   The contours and shape are totally different.  I even found a Chip Foose "Overhaulin" episode where they did this.   A lot of fab work.   I then considered using the '69/'70 Shelby fiberglass extensions and trunk lid. But, that was not the same as the Mach 1 look.  I like the look of the back end on the car in the picture you posted.   I hope you can get it done.  For me, I moved on and will keep the stock look.  This was further complicated for my '70, as the '70s have 2 different rear fenders and end caps, depending on when they were built.

 

Yep, I saw that too yesterday, but thats no big deal. I can fab up that stuff. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

aslanfe - there are slight variations in the 1970 rear quarters based on when and where they were built.  I am not sure of date/location data point, but there are numerous examples of people who wind up with end caps that don't match the quarters, and that is due to this variation.  I kept my original end caps and quarters on my car, as they were in good shape.  Apparently, this is a common problem for people who are trying to make 1970 Shelby clones.   I am sure one of our 69/70 experts can expand on this

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Newstang.  When I got my '70 vert, it was strapped down to 6x6 timbers.  It had no inner or outer drivers side rockers and no doors on it.  But I got the car for a deal, and decided to move forward, as Mike, our resident sheet metal/fabrication genius lives nearby me. 

I have attached a few pictures of how this was done.   If you need details on the frame jig, you can contact Mike (latoracing) on this forum.   We decided to do a partial floor replacement as well, and used a full floor panel and modified it to fit.  Then I added Global West Sub-frame connectors.  

I have a couple hundred pictures of this that Mike too during the evolution, which he worked on part time for about a year.   Most of them used to be attached to my build thread, but a software problem with Photobucket killed them.  So I can send you the pictures if you would like.

But, now the car is so stiff, that I don't even have the doors on it when working on it in my shop.

 

 

KIMG0198_zpsqrjam8de.jpg

KIMG0169_zpsnnocu8iv.jpg

KIMG0201_zpsct8pifr7.jpg

KIMG0122_zps37bc5hsg.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, did use the door and cross braces during fabrication.

Also found shock tower cracks and decided to wrap the shock towers (Mike made these) and use the Boss 302 style "dogbone" inserts (from West Coast Cougar)

 

KIMG0258_zpsqynvkoto.jpg

KIMG0082_zpsqvbvyrxy.jpg

KIMG0087_zpszerrpqsb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/19/2018 at 7:47 AM, newstang said:

BTW, as most of you know I cant leave well enough alone.

I cant stand the quarters and those "vents" so i am definitely going with mach1 full quarters with scoops on this one.

cant remember where i found this pic, but this is what I want. 

the quarter extensions should be same as fastback, but not sure what trunk lid was used, modified?

 

69-convertible.jpeg

 

Looks like a fun project, that is if you are a gluten for punishment (like myself lol).

Fixing the rear to accept the Sportsroof quarters looks like a really fun mod. The deck lid will have to be added to for the "duck tail". I haven't attempted it, but would like to try it one day. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

There are drawings available that show all the critical dimensions from the reference holes in the frame.

 

 

Cool, any Idea where i can find them?

thx

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is great, thx  

The only thing confusing me is that everything in the rear is rotted, floors, frame, etc. there is nothing really to mount anything to. then once i begin removing anything there will be nothing there to support anything else/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In short, how to keep the entire ass of the car from dropping off. Obviously the lack of a roof keeps me from doing it how i have done it on other mustangs.

The only good part about this car are the rockers are solid. its my only support platform

IMG_2573.jpg

IMG_2574.jpg

IMG_2575.jpg

IMG_2571.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also intend to use the one piece trunk floor, so i would also have to remove that rear seat support. 

Im on the Dynacorn site and cant find torque boxes for a 69-70 vert, but i do find the 67-68, anyone know if these are pretty close?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, RPM said:

 Have you thought of using the complete floor with front and rear rails?

Sure have, I used it on the Mach1 and it is a really nice and time saving. problem is i need to do this on the cheaper side and the full floor would be a waste because i would have to cut off the floor sides which have the inner rocker for a coupe/ fastback only

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×