Electric choke

[Her69fastback 3]

I just put a Holley 600 with electric choke on the car. What is the  best place to get power for the electric choke? I have read the stator . Some people say it’s ok & some say it’s not. Holley says 12v at run. The starter solenoid should have a 12v at run doesn’t it? Thanks for the help

[Midlife 814]

Starter solenoid only has 12V at crank, not run.

[Her69fastback 3]

Thanks for the help 

[1969_Mach1 333]

The stator terminal only has 1/2 the battery voltage.  I believe there is a terminal on the voltage regulator you can tap into.  I'm not certain which one it is, but I have heard of it being done.  Other than that, it's all the way back to the fuse block or ignition switch.

[Her69fastback 3]

That’s what I was thinking to. Thanks for the help 

[Vicfreg 771]

There is a "key on hot" wire that is used for accessories.   That is what I used on my other Mustangs.   I will take a look at the wiring diagrams and get back to you.  An example of this would be the controls for the A/C, rear defroster, and other power options.   

[Her69fastback 3]

Thanks for the help 

[Vicfreg 771]

Will pull the wiring diagrams later today and snap a picture of the area I am talking about.

[Midlife 814]

On 4/12/2018 at 5:40 PM, Vicfreg said:

There is a "key on hot" wire that is used for accessories.   That is what I used on my other Mustangs.   I will take a look at the wiring diagrams and get back to you.  An example of this would be the controls for the A/C, rear defroster, and other power options.   

That's ACC hot.  What you want for an electric choke is a RUN-only wire.  In the engine compartment, the best source is the green/red wire at the voltage regulator plug.  For 1970's only, there's a large white female bullet with a greyish-blue wire for the carb solenoid anti-backfire solenoid; that wire is also RUN-only.

[Her69fastback 3]

Thanks for the help 

[Her69fastback 3]

2 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Will pull the wiring diagrams later today and snap a picture of the area I am talking about.

That will help a lot thanks

[Vicfreg 771]

 Right, when I refer to  “ key on hot”, I mean hot when the ignition switch is in the run position, or on position,  not in the “ACC” position  

The anti-backfire solenoid is a great suggestion for a  place to tap that electric choke from  

In my case, on one of my cars, I took the under dash energized in the  “run” position wires, and installed a small, 4 fuse, power block, with modern fuses.  I used this to feed my electric choke, audio, and gauges. 

I did this because I did not want to hook my electric choke to any existing “glass” fuse feeds, that could cause failure of other important items (lights, etc) if the electric choke drew too mich current for the  existing circuit  

All of these cars are fifty years old, with 50-year-old wiring, and 50-year-old fuse blocks and technology

Good luck, keep us posted on your prigress!

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Her69fastback 3]

Will do

[Vicfreg 771]

Here are the drawings that show the backfire solenoid wiring, as this might be a little harder to find than the voltage regulator wire.  Midlife suggested that his is just for 1970's so this might benefit the 1970 owners, or others, who may have this connector in their wiring harness.

 

[Vicfreg 771]

The green wire with the red stripe at the regulator plug is the "904" wire.  Show in these 2 diagrams.  The other diagram shows the physical layout of where the connector is.  Another option is to grab the 12v at the #26 connector 

 

[Her69fastback 3]

Thanks that helps a lot

[GypsyR 32]

For simplicity and reliability, you can't beat the Stator terminal. Period. Millions (literally) of Fords were wired that from the factory. Some even came with Holleys. (4180's). True it doesn't provide a full 12 volts but it doesn't matter, you're just heating up a bimetallic coil of metal like a spring. A friend and I did some informal testing and found on average if you hooked up to direct 12 volts the only difference was the choke plate went full open about two seconds faster. Barely measurable and certainly not noticeable. I can't think of a single reason to not use the Stator terminal if you are using an original style alternator. Some people don't like simple and reliable I guess (people DO go out and buy Jaguars).  

Holley says not to, and so does Edelbrock. They should go into more detail and say not to on certain makes of cars and types of alternators but I imagine it's a LOT easier to just make a blanket statement. 

 

[Her69fastback 3]

Thanks you for all the help 

[TheRktmn 15]

The reason Ford uses the stator is because the choke should only be opening when the engine is running, not when the key is on. 

All the suggestions to wire to this or that negates that function. Let's say you're trying to start the car on a cold morning. You crank and crank but it doesn't want to start, or won't stay running. As long as you are cranking the choke is opening, engine running or not. Or, you start the car, run inside to let it warm up and it stalls. Key on = choke opening = cold motor = hard /no start = po'd owner.

The choke should only open when the car has run long enough to build up enough heat to run/idle without the choke. This is accomplished by only supplying power to the choke when the car is running. The stator terminal is dead when the engine is not turning the alternator.

[Her69fastback 3]

Thanks for the help 

[Her69fastback 3]

Thank you Vicfreg for the wiring diagram. That will help a lot. Thanks to everyone for all the input .

[Vicfreg 771]

No problem

To be clear, when I say “run” I mean “on”.  

My ignition switch has 5 positions:

- ACC

- Lock

- Off

- On

- Start

I am not suggesting hooking the choke to a wire that is hot in the “start” position

I am suggesting one that is hot in key “on” position

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Her69fastback 3]

Holley said it needs  to be 12v when it’s running 

[Vicfreg 771]

Correct.    Assuming midlife’s suggestions are correct, then those wires should be fine and supply 12 V   

 

[JayEstes 172]

Anybody got a pic of the anti-backfire solenoid, and a part number - I've never heard of that or seen it before?  I'm pretty sure my car doesn't have it, but wondering if there is harnessing for it in the engine bay.  Maybe it was a 70 emissions "upgrade"?