Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 12, 2018 I just put a Holley 600 with electric choke on the car. What is the best place to get power for the electric choke? I have read the stator . Some people say it’s ok & some say it’s not. Holley says 12v at run. The starter solenoid should have a 12v at run doesn’t it? Thanks for the help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted April 12, 2018 Starter solenoid only has 12V at crank, not run. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 12, 2018 Thanks for the help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted April 12, 2018 The stator terminal only has 1/2 the battery voltage. I believe there is a terminal on the voltage regulator you can tap into. I'm not certain which one it is, but I have heard of it being done. Other than that, it's all the way back to the fuse block or ignition switch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 12, 2018 That’s what I was thinking to. Thanks for the help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted April 12, 2018 There is a "key on hot" wire that is used for accessories. That is what I used on my other Mustangs. I will take a look at the wiring diagrams and get back to you. An example of this would be the controls for the A/C, rear defroster, and other power options. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 13, 2018 Thanks for the help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted April 13, 2018 Will pull the wiring diagrams later today and snap a picture of the area I am talking about. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted April 14, 2018 On 4/12/2018 at 5:40 PM, Vicfreg said: There is a "key on hot" wire that is used for accessories. That is what I used on my other Mustangs. I will take a look at the wiring diagrams and get back to you. An example of this would be the controls for the A/C, rear defroster, and other power options. That's ACC hot. What you want for an electric choke is a RUN-only wire. In the engine compartment, the best source is the green/red wire at the voltage regulator plug. For 1970's only, there's a large white female bullet with a greyish-blue wire for the carb solenoid anti-backfire solenoid; that wire is also RUN-only. 2 TheRktmn and mwye0627 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 14, 2018 Thanks for the help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 14, 2018 2 hours ago, Vicfreg said: Will pull the wiring diagrams later today and snap a picture of the area I am talking about. That will help a lot thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted April 14, 2018 Right, when I refer to “ key on hot”, I mean hot when the ignition switch is in the run position, or on position, not in the “ACC” position The anti-backfire solenoid is a great suggestion for a place to tap that electric choke from In my case, on one of my cars, I took the under dash energized in the “run” position wires, and installed a small, 4 fuse, power block, with modern fuses. I used this to feed my electric choke, audio, and gauges. I did this because I did not want to hook my electric choke to any existing “glass” fuse feeds, that could cause failure of other important items (lights, etc) if the electric choke drew too mich current for the existing circuit All of these cars are fifty years old, with 50-year-old wiring, and 50-year-old fuse blocks and technology Good luck, keep us posted on your prigress! 1 Bob & Sue reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 14, 2018 Will do Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted April 14, 2018 Here are the drawings that show the backfire solenoid wiring, as this might be a little harder to find than the voltage regulator wire. Midlife suggested that his is just for 1970's so this might benefit the 1970 owners, or others, who may have this connector in their wiring harness. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted April 14, 2018 The green wire with the red stripe at the regulator plug is the "904" wire. Show in these 2 diagrams. The other diagram shows the physical layout of where the connector is. Another option is to grab the 12v at the #26 connector Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 14, 2018 Thanks that helps a lot Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GypsyR 32 Report post Posted April 15, 2018 For simplicity and reliability, you can't beat the Stator terminal. Period. Millions (literally) of Fords were wired that from the factory. Some even came with Holleys. (4180's). True it doesn't provide a full 12 volts but it doesn't matter, you're just heating up a bimetallic coil of metal like a spring. A friend and I did some informal testing and found on average if you hooked up to direct 12 volts the only difference was the choke plate went full open about two seconds faster. Barely measurable and certainly not noticeable. I can't think of a single reason to not use the Stator terminal if you are using an original style alternator. Some people don't like simple and reliable I guess (people DO go out and buy Jaguars). Holley says not to, and so does Edelbrock. They should go into more detail and say not to on certain makes of cars and types of alternators but I imagine it's a LOT easier to just make a blanket statement. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 15, 2018 Thanks you for all the help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheRktmn 15 Report post Posted April 15, 2018 The reason Ford uses the stator is because the choke should only be opening when the engine is running, not when the key is on. All the suggestions to wire to this or that negates that function. Let's say you're trying to start the car on a cold morning. You crank and crank but it doesn't want to start, or won't stay running. As long as you are cranking the choke is opening, engine running or not. Or, you start the car, run inside to let it warm up and it stalls. Key on = choke opening = cold motor = hard /no start = po'd owner. The choke should only open when the car has run long enough to build up enough heat to run/idle without the choke. This is accomplished by only supplying power to the choke when the car is running. The stator terminal is dead when the engine is not turning the alternator. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 15, 2018 Thanks for the help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 15, 2018 Thank you Vicfreg for the wiring diagram. That will help a lot. Thanks to everyone for all the input . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted April 15, 2018 No problem To be clear, when I say “run” I mean “on”. My ignition switch has 5 positions: - ACC - Lock - Off - On - Start I am not suggesting hooking the choke to a wire that is hot in the “start” position I am suggesting one that is hot in key “on” position Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Her69fastback 3 Report post Posted April 15, 2018 Holley said it needs to be 12v when it’s running Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted April 15, 2018 Correct. Assuming midlife’s suggestions are correct, then those wires should be fine and supply 12 V Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 172 Report post Posted April 19, 2018 Anybody got a pic of the anti-backfire solenoid, and a part number - I've never heard of that or seen it before? I'm pretty sure my car doesn't have it, but wondering if there is harnessing for it in the engine bay. Maybe it was a 70 emissions "upgrade"? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites