3g alternator

[J's69Mach1 17]

Thinking about upgrading stock alternator to a 3g  95 amp or 130 amp . My car has a factory Tach, would that be a problem? Any recommendations. If I can buy a junkyard alternator to save $. Also to buy a new wiring kit from a vendor is my aim to simplify install. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. 

[Sean D 31]

Here is what I did: 

However, still narrowing down how much ground wires I need!

 

[MN69Grande 203]

I used a PA Performance kit and it was a snap.  They run like $35.  You replace the voltage regulator and harness.  I got like a Windstar or Taurus 130 amp Alternator from a used parts place.  Works great.  2 quick notes.

1.) Upgrade your charging cable.  I got 6 gauge with a mega fuse from summit.

2.) Your ampmeter won't work after the conversion.  You can get a converted Voltmeter  From Rocketman.  Great easy upgrade.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-810002

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AWW-500689

http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all

https://www.cjponyparts.com/pa-performance-alternator-conversion-kit-allows-use-of-3g-130-amp-alternator-1965-1985/p/ALTCK/

I used an Alternator from a 90s Windstar I think.  The only change for me was I had to use a bolt and nut on the lower alternator/bracket connection because the new Alternator didn't have a threaded hole.  Instead it was smooth so I got a longer bolt and a nut and it worked fine.  Which alternator did you get?  I read somewhere DOHC late 90s Taurus alternators work well (I only see the Sable below).  The one I got for a Windstar worked well.  I'll post a part number tomorrow.

From a Stangnet forum- https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/3g-swap-these-the-basic-steps.866228/
Here is a list of vehicles that have the 3G alternator, most are 130A, but some might be 110A:

94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6*
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6

*Probably the best one if you can get it (should be easy to find, too) is off the E/F series...this series uses a threaded top ear like the stocker on the Mustang....E/F series with threaded ear uses metric bolt. ALSO, make sure the E/F series is 130 Amps and NOT 95.""

[J's69Mach1 17]

I still haven't looked for alternator at Junkyard yet, until I get a day off. But I did look up on Autozone website & notice the clock positioning of the plug is different on alot of these vehicles.  

[lanky 44]

What engine do you have OP? I junkyarded a 3g and had to clock it very different from factory for my 69 351w. I fabricated a 3" extension for my lower alt. bracket with a piece of 3/8" thick steel with 2 holes in it. I used a series of washers to properly align the alt pulley. I actually wired it right the first time and it's been working very well! I got a 130A because I read that at idle they give you much more juice. Steady 14.3 ish volts all rpms. Bad pic but it's all I have on my phone.

[J's69Mach1 17]

I have a 351w (1994 block) T5 Tranny.   Lanky , are you using the fake voltage regulator on yours? I read it's only for looks. 

[lanky 44]

No I am not. I wired up the alternator directly to the wires that used to go to the VR. This stuff rests there now.

[J's69Mach1 17]

Cool, Nice and Neat 

[GypsyR 32]

The "small case" Taurus alternators are a direct replacement and easier to fit. The "large case" ones like lanky (and I) used you need a longer adjuster bracket for, if you have a V8. I like to hit the '96-03 V6 Mustangs as the alternator harness is all one piece and easily removed from the car without cutting anything. Some junkyards don't like that and the ones that don't let you on the yard can be talked into getting you one if you make it clear the harness can simply be unbolted and unplugged at each end. 

As far as I've been able to tell the 95, 110, and 130 amp versions all charge exactly the same at idle and all are pretty much overkill for our cars. They are overkill for the cars they came in. Because those cars not only need quite a bit of power, their computer systems are lot happier the more stable the system voltage it. Point being, the easier to fit 95 amp version will do all you need and more. Unless you just like overkill and want a hulking great big alternator. I can't throw any rocks there. :)

[lanky 44]

This is my $.02, the factory alternators are obviously pretty low amperage. There's not a lot to power electrically in these cars as they came from the factory. That said there's a reason they chose the amperage they did for the factory alternators. 95A is only about ~30-40 more than factory give or take. Since Countour fans supposedly pull a constant 30-35 amps and peak at very high amperage when turned on, I didn't want to tax the alternator near its amperage limit.

Would there have been issues? I genuinely don't know. However since I have upgraded my headlight wiring/headlights with a relay system, and added additional fuse boxes/gauges/components to the car I thought it best to step up to the bigger 130A unit and have that extra capacity, even if only for lower taxation on the alternator. Alternators do burn out I might add. Now that I have done the swap, I obviously could do it all over again much quicker and making the extension bracket for the 130A to fit correctly wasn't hard at all. 

I was junkyarding the alternator/wiring so if I'm paying a flat price at pick n pull why not get the more powerful one! Tim Taylor style...I took the nice 4ga charge wire and boot/terminal from the car I took it from too and trimmed it to fit with a new end for the starter solenoid (battery side).

 

[J's69Mach1 17]

Lanky how did you wire your 3g alternator to the VR ? 

[lanky 44]

They are internally regulated thus no external regulator. I ran the stator wire to the left side of the solenoid. I used this schematic:

[J's69Mach1 17]

Thanks for all replies

[J's69Mach1 17]

Thanks to all your help here. I finished the 3g upgrade today on my 69 mach 351w(Msd Dist & Msd Box. Charging is good at 14.38v while in idle. Lights are bright , turn signals blink good at solid steady pace, while radio on & defroster fan on. My Tachometer works. Alt light came on at start up then turned off. I ended up using a junkyard 3g alternator from a 95 taurus v6 3.0 ohv. 130 amp small case 7" spacing . I swapped to V pulley while at Junkyard from an old Cadillac alternator , used my handy battery impact with 15/16 socket for pulley removal. I fabricated an extension bracket like Lanky ' s  picture worked perfect. I used Pa Performance kit Voltage Regulator /harness. Due to my Factory Tachometer I think, my factory Harness had an extra wire which was connected to Stator stud on back of old 1g alternator.  I called Pa Performance  (they replied they never had that question before,as to where it connects to on 3G alternator).  So they said connect it to Stator  wire on 3G alternator . Hope this might help someone else.