Clutch Pedal

[larryc94 38]

I have a '70 and looking for measurement from back of pedal to the floor where the pedal hits floor.  Looking to see if my car the distance is off from others.

I have a T5 setup using the fox bellhousing about 4 yrs old. Bought everything from MDL and first had a their cable setup and had to preload the adjustment to get it to disengage which wasn't right.  fast forward 6 months I add headers and ruin the cable so I ordered there hyd setup with external slave.  Works well but still have to preload adjustment more than what it should be.  I know the fox throwout bearings are made for constant contact not like the bearing that would have come on the older cars.  But this more than just contact.

MDL figured out on some '69-'70's that the master they were using wasn't adequate it was a 0.70 bore size and they changed to a 0.75 .  Well it is better with the 0.75 but still not right, needs some preload to get full disengagement

My problem lies in the stroke of the master, I can only get 1.2" of stroke on a 1.4" stroke master.  If i got that full 1.4" stroke I know i'd be golden.

I even modified the brake/clutch support to have an adjustable clutch pedal stop which originally have a fixed stop to get as much throw as possible

The measurement can be with carpet etc just the way you use it.  I used a sliding square and placed the rule where the flat bar of the pedal  hits the carpet and have the sliding square part behind the pedal/pad.

BTW I just replaced the MDL clutch with a Centerforce II, resurfaced flywheel  (also Centerforce will not honor warranty if not resurfaced or new) that had maybe 1500 miles, they took off less than 0.010.  Did have an ever so slight, slight chatter at times under certain conditions.   Probably more  noticeable because you could see shaker quiver ever so slightly when it did it.  New fork, pivot, checked bellhousing concentricity, parallelism, pivot ball height, flywheel thickness and runout with new Centerforce clutch. Still requires too much preload to fully disengage

Thanks for any info

[barnett468 418]

you may be able to lower the mount position of the rod on the clutch pedal a little if needed. this will increase the pedal resistance slightly also.

[larryc94 38]

Yes this was my first  thought, easy to do and no harm if doesn't work.  You would no see the extra hole and could afford the increase resistance as it's easy now

[barnett468 418]

3 hours ago, larryc94 said:

Yes this was my first  thought, easy to do and no harm if doesn't work.  You would no see the extra hole and could afford the increase resistance as it's easy now

ok, if you have a centerforce pressure plate and are not a weight lifter and you can push the clutch pedal in by hand fairly easily, your leverage ratio is way too high, so repositioning the rod is the easiest thing to try.

 

 

[larryc94 38]

I figure I got room.  I'm going to measure the distance between the pivot at the top of clutch pedal to the hole where the linkage goes.    Going make a cardboard  model and see what different places for rod result in throw

 

[barnett468 418]

the problem is possibly getting the rod at too much of an angle. if you are lucky, it currently runs downward from the pedal to the master.

[larryc94 38]

Pulled the pedal and made a new hole 1/2" lower and now I'm getting the 1.4" stroke that the master is capable. The angle of the rod going to bell crank on the master looks ok. Really not much difference in effort if any. Looks like this will work out, thanks

[barnett468 418]

1 hour ago, larryc94 said:

Pulled the pedal and made a new hole 1/2" lower and now I'm getting the 1.4" stroke that the master is capable. The angle of the rod going to bell crank on the master looks ok. Really not much difference in effort if any. Looks like this will work out, thanks

xlnt, keep us posted.