Which brake booster is right for me?

[unilec 57]

2 hours ago, det0326 said:

while on this subject does anyone know the pedal ratio for the 1969 power pedal. I know from the pivot point to the m/c push rod is 5.0 inches but I don't know the distance from pivot point to center of pedal pad.

Looking at this website, it looks like the distance is the same for manual and power brakes. 13in is a bit low.

https://www.mustangsteve.com/msfaqbrakepedals.html

[69mach1build 24]

Do I need to change out my power brake pedal for something different if I do not use a brake booster?

[det0326 194]

42 minutes ago, 69mach1build said:

Do I need to change out my power brake pedal for something different if I do not use a brake booster?

yes, there is a difference in the distance from pivot point to booster/mc rod.  The distance is 5 inches on a power pedal and 2 inches on a manual pedal.

[69mach1build 24]

16 minutes ago, det0326 said:

yes, there is a difference in the distance from pivot point to booster/mc rod.  The distance is 5 inches on a power pedal and 2 inches on a manual pedal.

This is resolved by adding an adjustable pushrod correct?

[det0326 194]

No, the 2 pedals are different.  The difference is distance from where the pedal pivots and where the m/c rod connects. Two complete different pedals. Look at unilec's post above to mustang steve's site. He has a picture of 67 power pedal which is similar and also a manual you will see the difference. The 69 power pedal connects in a different hole up further on the pedal support. If you are changing to manual there should be a hole about 2 inches up from the mc/booster rod that the manual pedal mounts in. Same hole with a clutch petal if you were using one.

[Vicfreg 800]

This is a automatic transmission manual brake pedal from my 1970.  I went to power brakes, and this pedal would not work.  On this pedal, you can see how close the brake rod is to the top pivot point.  In this case, the pivot point is the typical clutch pedal/brake pedal shaft that runs through the middle of the clutch/brake pedal support bracket.

On a automatic transmission power brake pedal, this distance is larger, as the pivot for the power brake pedal is not the clutch/brake pedal support bracket shaft, but is at the top of the bracket, and uses a bolt to hold it in place, rather than the shaft.

Hope this helps.  If go to my build thread, I believe I posted detailed pictures and dimensions on the brake pedals.  

 

[69mach1build 24]

On ‎4‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 4:20 PM, Vicfreg said:

This is a automatic transmission manual brake pedal from my 1970.  I went to power brakes, and this pedal would not work.  On this pedal, you can see how close the brake rod is to the top pivot point.  In this case, the pivot point is the typical clutch pedal/brake pedal shaft that runs through the middle of the clutch/brake pedal support bracket.

On a automatic transmission power brake pedal, this distance is larger, as the pivot for the power brake pedal is not the clutch/brake pedal support bracket shaft, but is at the top of the bracket, and uses a bolt to hold it in place, rather than the shaft.

Hope this helps.  If go to my build thread, I believe I posted detailed pictures and dimensions on the brake pedals.  

 

What pedal would I need for manual brakes on my 69 with manual trans?

[Vicfreg 800]

One just like this, but with the narrower brake pedal pad

[RPM 1,256]

Some good FYI stuff from Mustang Steve on pedals:

[Rsanter 158]

On 4/16/2018 at 3:15 PM, ThePoose said:

Rsanter,

Did the TuffStuff booster work with a manual set-up or are you running an automatic? 

I have an automatic, however I think it will work fine with the manual linkage.

if you need I can further investigate and take pictures

[det0326 194]

Not my thread but to follow up on what I mentioned about my brakes I found the booster to be bad. This booster is about 3 years old from purchase date, only been running it for about 1 and 1/2 years. I called Leeds brakes  and he gave me steps in testing the booster that was in more detail than most tests I found on line and it failed a couple of the tests. I called him back the next day and he told me to send him proof of purchase which I did and he sent me a new one no questions asked. Also told me to either keep or discard the old one.  awesome customer service. Even tho I only have about 13 inches of vacuum at Idle the new booster made a huge difference. 

[RPM 1,256]

7 hours ago, det0326 said:

I called Leeds brakes  and he gave me steps in testing the booster that was in more detail than most tests I found on line and it failed a couple of the tests.

Hey Dave, can you tell us what those other tests were?

[det0326 194]

 

Hey Bob

My defective booster would hold vacuum like it should, I could pull the check valve days after car had been running and could hear the air rush in. The problem with it was when the pedal was pressed in normal braking it would leak down rapidly.

Here is the link to the tests on the Leeds tech service. Scroll down a bit and you will see. 

https://leedbrakes.com/ft-2066-faqs.html

[ThePoose 40]

23 hours ago, Rsanter said:

I have an automatic, however I think it will work fine with the manual linkage.

if you need I can further investigate and take pictures

I don't think so.  Judging by the pictures on Summit, it looks like the wider, flatter design that's on my automatic.  I don't imagine it's a couple of inches smaller in diameter, and if not, it won't clear the hydraulic clutch linkage on my car.  I was hoping you'd discover the Holy Grail that would let me use the Wildwood master cylinder. 

 

Thanks, though.

[Bob & Sue 110]

Here's a clutch & brake setup that would be the correct one if the poster has it posted correctly.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/d/1969-mustang-clutch-and/6589130416.html