Engine Rebuild Update

[69isfine 10]

As it turned out, my numbers matching engine was already bored 60 over so i had sleeving or doing rings and bearings only as an options.  By shear luck on timing, a guy was hanging onto a 69 block off a mach 1 from the 70's that was totaled in a crash.  Theoretically with only 10K miles on it.Turns out that one of the cylinders was out by 10/1000 so it is getting bored 30 over. After choosing flat top pistons,  I am now down to the cam selection.  The Extreme Energy 256H is emerging as a front runner for the low-middle end plus some noise but I would like some suggestions.

Also I'd like to confirm Plastikote 224 as preferred engine paint choice in color and ease of application.

Thanks for everyone's contribution to the topic.

 

[1969_Mach1 333]

If the blocks will be fine at only 0.020" overbore, I'd do that instead of 0.030" overbore.  Boring cylinders increases the possibility of hot running engine issues and 0.030" is about the safe limit for small block Fords.  For that reason, the smaller the overbore, the better.

I don't know about the best cam choice for you application, but I'd look at other brands before Comp.  Comp's quality has diminished over the years since they started making their off-the-shelf items overseas.  I'd look at Howards cams or Lunati and see what they offer.  I've seen Howard's cams stud girdles and the quality is far better than I had expected for the price.

I have found in my 351W, cams behave a little more mild than the mfg's description.  I currently use Ford Racing's X303. I'm happy with it.  But again, your needs will be different.

Lastly, a 351W makes a pretty good amount of low end torque in stock form.  Typically, unless your are installing in something like a 4WD truck, you don't need a cam to increase low end torque.  Something to build more mid-range power is usually more suitable in a car.

[barnett468 418]

256 is pretty lame.

how often will you rev it to max rpm of around 5200?

what is your trans, stall converter, and rear end ratio?

do you have the stock press in rocker studs?

the xe262h is a good can for a light boost in performance but it can cause press in rocker studs to pull out. stock studs can have pins installed without removing the heads but it is a little bit of a pita to do with the heads on the car.

[1969_Mach1 333]

23 minutes ago, barnett468 said:

256 is pretty lame.

barnett468 said in a direct manner what I was implying.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

I purchased back in the early 90's a Comp Cam Magnum 280H cam, lifter, and roller tip rocker set for my 351w. It has an advertised power range from 2000-5000 rpm. Had to replace the press in studs with screw in. The machine shop installed 3/8 studs but looking back 20+ years later I wish he had used 7/16 as it has been shown that the 3/8 do have a little flex to them even with the roller tip rockers. The bigger the cam, the more your going to need to upgrade other components. Comp recommends a 2500 stall converter for use with this cam. You'll need better flowing heads, exhaust, intake, carb, etc.

For your "low-middle end plus some noise" you might be better with a smaller cam and new muffler(s). 

View my build photo album by clicking on the image

 

[1969_Mach1 333]

Yes, for the small price difference when converting to screw in rocker arm studs, it's best to use 7/16" instead of 3/8".  The end that screws into the cylinder head is 7/16-14 UNC for both screw in stud sizes so there is no difference in machine work on the cylinder head.

[jholmes217 65]

I had a Comp Extreme Energy 274H in a 302 a few years ago.  Nice choppy idle, and pulled strong from idle to 5500 RPM.  Really came on strong at about 1500 RPM.