1970 FB Toe Board Hole Repair

[TomM 25]

Good idea Unilec, I'll plan on using your paper method - hopefully this weekend.  Thanks, Tom

[RPM 1,190]

17 hours ago, unilec said:

Once you have the area cut out, lay the new panel across the cutout with a sheet of paper taped to the underside and from under the car use a marking pen to trace the outline of the cutout as well as the frame rail. This will give you a cut line for the butt weld, as well as where to drill holes to plug weld to the frame rail.

Can't this method be done directly onto the patch piece with a sharpie?

[unilec 57]

7 hours ago, RPM said:

Can't this method be done directly onto the patch piece with a sharpie?

Absolutely you can, because of the EDP coating, it can sometimes be difficult to scratch a line and also see it when you cut the line with a cutting disc, once you have the panel marked with white paper you can have more pressure to scribe a cut line on the bench and center punch a series of places to drill for the holes to plug weld the frame rail.

[unilec 57]

11 hours ago, TomM said:

Good idea Unilec, I'll plan on using your paper method - hopefully this weekend.  Thanks, Tom

Hey Tom, Just a suggestion, it may be a good idea for you to  prepare and cut the new panel for fitment and then if you do not feel confident in your welding skilled, maybe look into getting some quotes from mobile welders how can come to you and butt weld the panel in place for you. Butt welding is something that takes a lot of practice to get right, once you blow through it can be a pain in the butt to close. Just something to think about.

[TomM 25]

I've heard some folks us a light spray paint around the cut edge from the underside to mark the panel.  I will start with the paper method and see how it works out. 

 

I'll do some preliminary research on a mobile welder, but as father/son project with at least a year before I need to get the car on the road, I'm willing to be patient and keep practicing.  Also, although I feel that the butt joints are preferred/better, I won't lose any sleep over lap joints as a plan B.  Thanks, Tom

[unilec 57]

12 hours ago, TomM said:

I've heard some folks us a light spray paint around the cut edge from the underside to mark the panel.  I will start with the paper method and see how it works out. 

 

I'll do some preliminary research on a mobile welder, but as father/son project with at least a year before I need to get the car on the road, I'm willing to be patient and keep practicing.  Also, although I feel that the butt joints are preferred/better, I won't lose any sleep over lap joints as a plan B.  Thanks, Tom

I have replaced quarter panels using a flanging tool similar to this one, so if you feel more comfortable using a lap joint, then that also is an option, just seal it well underneath.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-punch-flange-tool-1110.html

[TomM 25]

So I'm still sneaking up on this floor pan repair, here's what I hope is the final cut.  I opted not to cut straight across the toe-board in order to avoid the additional spot welds and the metal was good.  The replacement pan I have is large enough to fill in the entire cutout toe-board and floor.  This would eliminate the lap joint but get a little tricky on each side where the OEM lap joint is located.  Another option is to perform a two piece repair, which would result in the lap joint in the original location.  This is not a concourse restoration so I won't lose any sleep over eliminating the lap joint.  I'm interested in your thoughts.  Does anyone have any experience welding the lapped area on either side with a solid piece in the middle (no lap)?  Thanks, Tom