Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 5, 2018 Trying to sort out the various options for my new power brake booster. Looking for some advice and lessons learned, and recommendations. My car is an original power brake car with the stock brake pedal support and power brake pedal. I am using 2004 Cobra disc brakes front and rear. I have a 351W, and using a Borgeson power steering upgrade. I would like a reduced size booster if possible (7"). I am ok with running an aftermarket master cylinder, proportioning valve and brake distribution block, and making new brake lines. I would prefer to have the block/valve assembly mounted on the master cylinder, rather than bolted to the fenderwell. Any help would be appreciated... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unilec 57 Report post Posted February 6, 2018 You really need to go for a dual diaphragm brake booster, not sure if they have them in 7". I have been looking long and hard here in Aussie for a midland booster for my 69, mainly because I can get a rebuild kit for the midland, but they are like hens teeth, so I may have to go with one from this guy. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1967-1970-mustang-8-5-inch-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-and-power-brake-pedal/352161754471?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JET 445 43 Report post Posted February 6, 2018 You can buy rebuilt Midland boosters from West Coast Classic Cougars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unilec 57 Report post Posted February 6, 2018 Not without core that can be rebuilt, or you have to pay an additional $250. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted February 6, 2018 On my 69 I am running a booster from TuffStuff. I went that way because I wanted to use a willwood MC and it was interfering with the tower. The tuffstuff booster is basically the same one used for the boss 429 just not concourse correct. feels the same as the original booster and works great. Bought from summit and was cheaper than getting a rebuilt exchange unit 1 barnett468 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted February 6, 2018 What's wrong with simply getting the original Bendix dual diaphragm brake booster? You'll have to pay a core charge from most anywhere. But that's to be expected. The Midland boosters were used on 1968 and earlier and some early 1969 Mustangs. Both are about the same physical size. The Midland boosters didn't last as long as the Bendix boosters. The Scott Drake copy of the Bendix brake booster is garbage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 6, 2018 Does your engine have a big cam? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 6, 2018 I have same issues as Rsanter with space. My engine makes 11 inches of vacuum at idle. I have at least one 69 and one 70 original booster.. if anyone needs one I will look in my stash and take some pics Rsanter- which TuffStuff model did you use? Any pictures? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shep69 149 Report post Posted February 7, 2018 14 hours ago, Vicfreg said: I have same issues as Rsanter with space. My engine makes 11 inches of vacuum at idle. I have at least one 69 and one 70 original booster.. if anyone needs one I will look in my stash and take some pics Rsanter- which TuffStuff model did you use? Any pictures? Vic . With 11 inches of vacuum your not going to have great brakes. Most boosters work on 18 inches of vacuum . Im running around 13 and there ok but not great. So without putting in an electrical vacuum pump it is what it is. I guess on a 50 year old car im not expecting them to be like a new car. I do feel safe driving it though and it does pull up if I need it too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 7, 2018 Shep, thanks for that info. I have manual 4 wheel disc brakes on my ‘68 coupe, stops fine, but a lot of pedal effort Even if I get a little power assist for my ‘70, I will be happy. My ‘70 us also s factiry A/C car, and came from the factory with a vacuum reservoir that was mounted in the passenger fenderwell Maybe I will try that to see if it helps I have eliminated all of my vacuum lines by using Vintage Air 1 Shep69 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpfll 11 Report post Posted February 8, 2018 Vic, I have the same set up on my 69 cougar. I used the Mustang Steve cobra conversion and am running 2004 cobra brakes and a borgeson box. My 408w stroker only has 11” of vacuum at idle. Remember, when you are cruising or decelerating you will have a lot more than 11”. I see up to 22” on decel. The booster holds more vacuum than you need for one or two brake applications. I got a rebuilt Bendix booster from booster Dewey and a 15/16 MC and everything works great. Pedal effort is nice, seems close to stock and never feels like its out of vacuum. I had planned on using an electric vacuum pump, but haven’t found it necessary. One option you could consider is adding a supplemental vacuum tank under the fender with a three way check valve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 8, 2018 jpfll - did you use a stock master cylinder? Rsanter - is the booster you used single diaphragm? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpfll 11 Report post Posted February 9, 2018 Yes, I did. Also last year I swapped it out for an aluminum one from SSBC with 1” bore. It looks just like the cast iron one that came off, but won’t rust! i also used a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted February 9, 2018 On 2/6/2018 at 10:29 AM, Vicfreg said: I have same issues as Rsanter with space. My engine makes 11 inches of vacuum at idle. I have at least one 69 and one 70 original booster.. if anyone needs one I will look in my stash and take some pics Rsanter- which TuffStuff model did you use? Any pictures? I don’t recall but I got it from summit and it was specified as being for the 69 Mustang application. Through my research I found that it is basically the booster model as used on the boss429 but not concourse correct. I also opted for the full Crome just because. i originally was keeping the stock one but the willwood would not fit between that and the tower so I found the tuff stuff one was shorter and gave it a try. it was reasonable priced and it has a good fit and feel to it. the side bonus is that it makes it easier to work in that area due to the smaller dimension Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 11, 2018 Thanks. I decided to use a small double diaphragm booster. Because of that, I can't use any of the larger Wilwood style master cylinders. Any master cylinder that is over about 7-1/2" long will hit the shock tower. I sourced this at a local manufacturer that supplies the race industry here in North Carolina. They have some cool options that allowed me to mount the proportioning valve under the master cylinder, and also have provisions to hook up both the brake warning switch and a hydraulically operated brake light switch. I will be posting that stuff on my restoration thread in a week or so. https://www.mpbrakes.com/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 13, 2018 I remember grinding my MC down on the end and then installing the "Factory Dent" in the tower To get it in.....Still very very close. It was my ride home I didn't care how it got done... Times have changed.......... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 14, 2018 Dude, I am with you, on my 1968 S code years ago, my shock towers took a beating due to brakes and headers, etc..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 Got my booster and master cylinder in today so I can do some measurements for my brake lines. I went with the 2000 vintage Mustang master cylinder, as it is very light, and also was designed to work with 4 wheel disc brakes. It is a 1" bore and has the same internal dimensions as the standard master cylinder with respect to the required rod depth. The booster is an 8" dual diaphragm unit from Master Power Brakes. It is the smaller diameter version that was originally designed for manual transmission cars to avoid interference with the Z-Bar linkage. Installing this requires some minor modifications to the firewall mounting area, but for me, it took maybe 45 minutes to do that. I used a disc brake proportioning valve from Master Power Brakes. It has a bracket that mounts it under the master cylinder. The modern master cylinder uses ISO fittings, so I got some ISO-Metric adaptors from Mustang Steve. I will also plumb in a brake light switch and not use the pedal mounted one. More details on this posted on my project thread..... Thanks to everyone for their advice... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 19, 2018 Nice! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 Well, another day, another thing learned. Sven, one of our forum members suggested a look at the 1990 to 1994 Ford Ranger Master Cylinder, as I was fussing over the passenger side brake line ports on my 2000 Mustang Master cylinder, worried about potential interference with my tall valve covers.... Well, looks like the truck one will work just fine. I have posted some pictures of the 2 master cylinders side by side. One is the 2000 Mustang, which has the passenger side ports, the other is the 1992 Ford Ranger, which has the drivers side ports. They are dimensionally identical. The brake booster rod depth is exactly the same, as is the bore. The truck version has a slightly larger reservoir, and it has 2 different ISO-Metric port sizes. One is 10mm the other is 12mm. On the Mustang version, they are both 10mm. The only modification that needs to be made is to enlarge the mounting holes slightly to fit over the studs that are installed in my booster. You can see where I did that to the one on the right. So, I am eating the $50 and going with the Ford Ranger version, which will keep my lines on the drivers side.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 333 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 Does the Ranger unit have residual pressure check valve for rear drums? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 I don't think so, the Rangers were 4 wheel disc brakes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted February 24, 2018 4 hours ago, Vicfreg said: I don't think so, the Rangers were 4 wheel disc brakes. Not true. My 1993 ranger with the 4.0 had rear drums. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 24, 2018 Hmm. I had a 90 s model eith 4 WDisc Was a 4.0 l. Isn’ the check valve in the proportioning valve assembly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 333 Report post Posted February 24, 2018 I think some have the valve inside the exit ports. You need to remove it if you have disks on the side with the valve or it will keep pressure on that side even after you release the brake. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
