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bigmal

Door Alignment Issues

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16 minutes ago, Jan said:

G'day bigmal,

I am certain you can get a better door fit.

You need to start adjusting the hinges so that you get the rear of the door to line up. Then go on to adjusting the front of the door.

In your case I would move the door out at the top hinge so you get the rear good.

Then you can move the front in or out equally (both hinges) so it lines up down at the rocker panel.

Next thing you have to do is the adjust the mud guard (fender) so it lines up with the door front.

You will now probably have to move the bonnet (hood) to the left as you now have a bigger gap there and possibly the front of the guard to obtain parallel gaps.

The glass can be adjusted as follows:

The whole glass can be moved back and forth with the nut at the front of the scissors (rear bolt loose).

The glass can be tilted up and down by moving the bolt holding the rear of the scissors up or down.

Then you have the tilt as explained earlier.

Another adjustment is also possible and that is to move the quarter window back and forth a little to get the rubber flush. (less noise)

 

It's not difficult as someone pointed out but is does take patience.

 

Hope this helps and good luck.

Thanks, this is great. I will hopefully start on the weekend. I still have to align the bonnet from a previous mod so can do it at the same time.

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56 minutes ago, bigmal said:

The seal on the metal strip at the back of the window is coming adrift. Is this difficult to change? I asume you have to take the metal strip off and replace it?

Thanks

 

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You can get the rubber alone, and do not take the stainless strip off the window unless it's already coming off. There is a phillips head screw at the bottom of the strip that holds the rubber in. You're going to have to take the rear door weather seal (part with the two screws) off to get to it.

 

Now, if the two stainless strips are separating, then you might have to replace the Stainless strip unless you can weld it back together.

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15 hours ago, 69ShelbyGT350H said:

You can get the rubber alone, and do not take the stainless strip off the window unless it's already coming off. There is a phillips head screw at the bottom of the strip that holds the rubber in. You're going to have to take the rear door weather seal (part with the two screws) off to get to it.

 

Now, if the two stainless strips are separating, then you might have to replace the Stainless strip unless you can weld it back together.

Thnaks for that. I will order a strip when I get a moment.

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On 2/11/2018 at 6:02 PM, bigmal said:

Unfortunately have to slam the door pretty hard to get it to latch. Have tried moving the striker out but then the door is not flush. I may have to live with the door out a little as I found a broken bracket inside that I had to replace. I suspect from all the door slaming.

If you have a reproduction door rubber, you may never get it to close easily because the repo rubbers for all year mustangs are total crap because they are several times harder than the factory ones. i have actually had to thin the rubber down on a few cars to fix the problem.

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4 hours ago, barnett468 said:

If you have a reproduction door rubber, you may never get it to close easily because the repo rubbers for all year mustangs are total crap because they are several times harder than the factory ones. i have actually had to thin the rubber down on a few cars to fix the problem.

Thanks Barnett. How did you thin the rubber?

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4 minutes ago, bigmal said:

Thanks. I thought that might be too obvious. Will give it a go.

lol.

it is not ideal and the results are not the prettiest, but one must do what one must do sometimes. you need to determine if the rubber on the front edge of the door is causing the problem or if it is the one on the rear.

nos rubbers are probably over $600.00 if you can find them.

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