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Car Hauler

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Okay, so this isn't exactly Mustang related but I need one for hauling my stang and I'm sick of begging and borrowing.  I need a car hauler to haul my car to the media blaster then to paint and beyond. My car will be, for the most part, a trailer queen. Want a simple flat car hauler with a bulldog hitch. Looking at 18 ft, as I will want to put it in my shop, possibly with the car on the trailer when it is completed. Don't like my stuff sitting outside. Can't decide on whether to go with an all steel deck or wooden.  Seems both have their advantages and disadvantages. Thoughts on this? Also, any other advise on add on's for a trailer purchase would be appreciated. Looking at a clean used trailer but also considering new, not to exceed $2,500. Appreciate your thoughts and comments. 

John

 

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If the trailer is going to be inside the wood will last much longer than if left outside, either way I would use some type of sealer as well if going wood. 

18’ will work but will be tight especially if it is a dovetail trailer. 18’ does not provide allot of room to move the load around to balance the weight. Last trailer I had was an 18’ with a dovetail and the one axle sat on the dovetail.

Personally I would not buy a trailer with a dovetail again. If more clearance is needed loading drop the jack and jack up the front of the trailer while hitched to the tow vehicle.

If the option presents itself opt for a C channel -vs- angle iron frame.

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Love my dove/beaver tail 18' trailer. Home built (not by me) back in the early 80's. Two house trailer axels, open center. Tows so smoothly, no swaying at all. I've upgraded to a 24' enclosed, but still no plans to get rid of the flat as it can get into many places the enclosed cant.

tn_trailer30_n.jpg

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Metal floor ,and if you haul anything smaller go with a full floor ,cant tell you how many times i hauled something that one side fell in the open part of the floor and was a total pain in the butt to lift out. My trailer is a c channel frame and it is a lot more flexable than square tube and i dont even feel it back there on a rough road. My trailer is 17 foot and flat top and i had it custom made about 20 years ago 

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I live in the miserable, nauseating, rain soaked pacific northwest.  I have a wood floor dovetail trailer. I treat the deck like a deck and treat it every year or two and also store it inside. After 8 years it's still perfect.  The fenders are starting to show tiny bits of rust, having a steel deck would, in my opinion, rust worse than the fenders and be a major PIA unless you like fixing things that shouldn't have to be fixed.

Also, my drivers side fender tilts away from the trailer so you can get in and out of your car.  I'd get the 10K or 12K rated trailer and make sure you have brakes on both sides of the trailer.   Also make sure you have D-rings everywhere and pick up a set of Mac's Tiedowns. 

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Every place you think you need a tie down ,you will need more ,there is never enough tiedown hooks. Only place that shows rust on my trailer is where i hit the fenders with the sand blaster when i blasted a car that wasnt easy to remove .it is only surface rust and sometime this summer i will blast the whole trailer and repaint ...white this time instead of red. My trailer has sat outside all the time i have had it. It also uses mobile home axles that have been lowered at the spindles so it loads very easy because the trailer sets lower

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